Fram Oil Filters = Fail

[datsunaholic]

this scares me.... ALOT! maybe thats why my 620 sounds like its dieing. i wonder who makes Motorcraft filters.... my mercury never had an issue with em, and i have a few filters for the 5.0 laying around.

 

Motorcraft are Purolators with a different base cap design (internally identical to a Purolator). That's what I use.

 

Looked for a pic of one of my engines...

 

 

 

Yup, FL-1A right there. But I've had all sorts of stuff on there. I found a couple really old Pennzoil filters that don't look like a modern FRAM. But generally all those FRAM/etc filters are good for is covering the oil filter base when painting the block...

[Buzzbomb]

Motorcraft are Purolators with a different base cap design (internally identical to a Purolator). That's what I use.

 

 

Yup, FL-1A right there.

 

I also use the Motorcraft filters...I think they are the best for the least $. I like Napa Gold and Carquest filters too, but I honestly think the Motorcraft filters are right up there in quality with both of them. I ran Fram years ago, but when Fram quality started declining, I started getting noisy valvetrain trouble too. I switched to a Motorcraft, and the problem went away. Fram makes all the cheap filters, IIRC. STP, Pennzoil, etc. are all identifiable as the Fram toilet roll in a can.

 

I'd run a WalMart SuperTech before running a Fram if I couldn't get anything else. It's actually a decent filter made by "Champion Labs", same company now makes AC Delco filters.

[HRH]

If you cut apart a NAPA Gold filter (WIX, essentially) you'll notice the end caps that make up the paper filter are metal, not cardboard, as in Frams. It also has a much superiour anti-drainback valve and spring. Oh, hey, wasn't at the end, I see the NAPA filter diagram has already been posted. Sweet!

[patd]

Ok guys you scared me too. I dont what filter I put on my truck, I bought two of them from IMC so I checked the box and they are made by Union Sangyo in Malaysia, Terrific, Never heard of them, so I am not taking any chances either so I went down to Autozone today and bought a Bosch 3500 for something like $7.00 and some Castrol oil and did another oil change, This will be the third oil change in just over two months, The first one when I got the truck, the second after three weeks to give the engine time to circulate the new oil and get all of the old sludge out and now this one, Which I hope will do it for around ten months. Has anyone ever heard of Union Sangyo?

Its funny when I went up to the counter with the Castrol oil to get the filter the guy said they were having a special on STP oil filters and said a STP oil filter would be like two bucks with the Castrol oil. (STP is one of the dont buy ones)

[MicroMachinery]

... Which I hope will do it for around ten months. ...

 

Wait a second.. correct me if I'm wrong, but did you just insinuate that you would not be changing your oil for the next 10 months? REPENT!

[lil89ram50]

Wait a second.. correct me if I'm wrong, but did you just insinuate that you would not be changing your oil for the next 10 months? REPENT!

 

 

it all depends on how much he drivesit/condition of weather, n how hard he is on the motor

 

 

 

on a sie note.. i do not use fram, i never have since i had good luck with napa gold, but i was wondering about the other frams? like the high milage, and the other ones they have? are they all proven shit? or just the normal orange ones??

[MicroMachinery]

it all depends on how much he drivesit/condition of weather, n how hard he is on the motor

 

 

Well, it's my understanding, that when combustion gasses mix with oil, detergents neutralize and motor oil begins developing acids that aren't good for the engine's internals. Mix that with an extended period of time, and you get a situation going on inside of your engine that is less than ideal. Even if he putt-putts around and only drives 3k in 10 months, it's not a good idea to change your oil just shy of once a year. That's why it's recommended to change your oil every 3000 miles OR 3 months.

[BoostinBen]

I see some talk about oem oil filters being junk in this thread ... I use these

 

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-OEM-Oil-Filter-S13-SR20DET_p_4100.html

 

they are nissan OEM filters from japan for the j-spec sr20 motor.

 

you think they are rebranded junk filters?? or am i safe?

[banzai510(hainz)]

Union Sangyo in Malaysia,still better than a Fram

 

Those are fine I run them also

[patd]

Wait a second.. correct me if I'm wrong, but did you just insinuate that you would not be changing your oil for the next 10 months? REPENT!

 

I have seen the light Brother MicroMachinery, and will follow thy first commandment, "thou shalt change thy oil every three months" (and dont forget thy filter) :angel:

[LeX]

any opinions on fram tough guard? it's the silver one that's an extra $3 or so over the orange one. I put on on my 510 but it's only seen a few hundred miles but it is ticking a bit, you guys think the more expensive one sucks too or is it any better?

 

i'll prob just grab a couple wix instead for my Rb and SR

[DanielC]

I have found USA made Motorcraft FL1-a oil filters at Walmart, for $3.67.

For all of you asking about a Fram "premium" filter, what makes you think thay are any better than the regular ones? Same company, same profit motive.

[datsunaholic]

I have found USA made Motorcraft FL1-a oil filters at Walmart, for $3.67.

For all of you asking about a Fram "premium" filter, what makes you think thay are any better than the regular ones? Same company, same profit motive.

... Different paint.

 

Well, more than that.

 

They use a different filter media but the cheap, poorly sealing bypass valves are about the same. The anti-drainback valve is slightly improved but not by much. But the big issue is that the bypass and anti-drainback valves both have to seal against cardboard. Cardboard isn't a good solid sealing surface, and all FRAM filters use cardboard end caps inside.

[datsunaholic]

Oh, and from what I've read STP filters are a Champion Labs filter, not a FRAM, even though the designation looks like a FRAM number. Champion Labs filters are things like K&N, AC Delco, Mobil1, etc. Used to be Bosch too, though they tend to vary between Champion and Purolator-type filters.

[Z-train]

To anyone reading this:I wouldn't put a FRAM of any type on YOUR lawnmower.In addition to what has been mentioned,i watched a friend go BACKWARDS past the 1000FT mark at the track because the FRAM filter let go.

[1974datsun]

Actually , I would like to find there corporate headquarters , drive there , throw the filter through the window and then take pics :lol:

 

Mobil 1 I have had no problems with either :)

 

Thanks

royal purple is the best!!!!!

[oldsklminitrk]

I guess I need to go salesman on this subject.....I sell Wix filters and I know there are some other good filters out there so Im gonna keep this bias as possible. :rolleyes:

 

You may take your oil filter for granted, but this small, inexpensive part of your vehicle's lubrication system plays a vital role in protecting the engine from premature wear. Each moving part in the engine and the cylinder walls requires clean oil for proper lubrication and lasting life. The oil filter cleans the oil as it passes through the filter element or filtering media. This prevents abrasive contaminants in the engine lubrication system from damaging engine parts.

 

The better you understand your engine's lubrication system, the more you'll appreciate the vital role your oil filter plays. When the engine is running, oil enters the oil pump through a screened intake. The screened intake -- or oil pick-up -- is located in the crankcase near the bottom surface of the oil pan. The oil is drawn through the screen intake and forced by the oil pump through the oil filter.

 

Oil from the main gallery is also fed through vertical passages to the crankshaft main bearings and through the crankshaft to the rod bearings. Oil thrown from the crankshaft, or sprayed from the connecting rods, lubricates the pistons and cylinder walls.

 

In a typical full-flow type oil filter, the oil flows into an inlet passage and then through the filtering element. After flowing through the filter element, the filtered or "clean" oil passes directly to the main oil gallery. In a partial-flow type filter, the oil returns directly to the oil pan.

 

Oil from the main gallery lubricates the camshaft and the camshaft bearings (and feeds hydraulic valve lifters if used in the engine). On non-overhead cam engines, oil is metered through the valve lifter to a hollow push rod that carries oil for the lubrication of the push rod pivot point, rocker arm pivots and valve guide.

Oil Filter Media

The media is the filtering material in the oil filter element. It essentially determines the efficiency, performance and useful life of the oil filter.

 

There are two basic types of filter media: the "paper" media and the "depth" type media. The primary features of the filter elements are:

 

Particle size retention (filtration efficiency)

Particle size retention is the measure of the degree to which the filter can retain particles of various sizes. Wix has developed optimum particle size retention quality in filter media by extensive engine wear tests including exhaustive testing of filters used in racing, and sophisticated laboratory tests. Wix media in the automotive full-flow oil filter is able to trap and hold essentially all the contaminant particles larger than 25 microns. (A human hair measures approximately 70 microns in diameter. An object that is 1 micron in size is .000039 inches in diameter.) Our filters also capture a high percentage of even smaller particles.

 

Dirt-holding capacity

Dirt-holding capacity is the amount of contaminant that can be removed and held by the filter until the filter ceases to function. The capacity of Wix filters is significantly larger than the minimum requirements to efficiently filter all the oil during the oil and filter change periods as specified by vehicle manufacturers.

 

Resistance to oil flow

WIX full-flow oil filters for automotive applications use arch-pleated, prescription-blended media. When new, the media with a maximized number of pleats has less than 2 psi pressure drop when filtering oil at a rate of 4 g.p.m. at normal operating temperature. This low initial restriction to oil flow protects the vital engine parts more effectively.

Parts of an Oil Filter

Gasket - provides exterior seal between the filter and engine at the engine mounting surface.

Mounting Plate - prevents deflection (movement) at the gasket sealing surface. Heavy gage steel plate provides for threaded attachment to the engine.

Inner Element Support - provides inner element stabilization and a positive seal between the inner element and the mounting plate to prevent the bypass of unfiltered oil.

Upper End Cap - retains element end sealant and filter media, provides an outlet for clean oil, and provides structural rigidity to the pleated media.

Lower End Cap - retains element end sealant and filter media.

Arch-pleated, Prescription-blended Filter Media - provides a more than adequate filter area. The element has a controlled porosity blended media to assure complete filtration of the oil.

Spiral-wound Center Tube - provides internal element support. The spiral design greatly reduces initial flow restriction when compared to other designs.

Coiled Spring - ensures a constant load on the inner element to maintain the seal between the upper element end cap, the inner element support, and the mounting plate even during pressure surge situations.

Filter Canister - encloses the assembly with a mechanically-locked double seam. The canister provides "flutes" at the closed end for ease of removal with an oil filter wrench.

Silicone Anti-Drainback Valve - Stays flexible in extreme temperatures, improves oil flow and keeps oil in filter to prevent engine destroying dry starts. Also provides lasting protection to meet new vehicle manufacturers longer recommended oil change schedules. Nitrile valves can harden and become ineffective over time.

 

Some WIX full-flow filters include anti-drainback and/or filter by-pass valves. These types of filters are identical to full-flow filters, except that a by-pass valve replaces the inner element support and an anti-drainback valve has been added. The Anti-Drainback Valve prevents oil from draining out of the filter inlet holes when the engine is shut off. It also provides seal between clean and dirty oil at the upper end cap. This is necessary in applications where the oil filter is mounted in a horizontal or inverted position.

 

The Filter By-Pass Valve

If a WIX full-flow filter becomes "clogged", or excessively restrictive to oil flow, the filter by-pass valve ensures continued engine lubrication by allowing the oil to by-pass the filter. Some vehicle manufacturers have the by-pass valve built into the oil filter mounting unit (located on the engine).

 

Other vehicle manufacturers require full-flow filters have the by-pass valve built into the filter itself. All Wix oil filter types recommended for these particular applications include the by-pass valve assembly in the filter.

 

By-pass Valve Assembly -- spring loaded valve assembly that allows oil to by-pass the element under high-differential pressure conditions such as cold oil and/or excessively contaminated media. This allows lubrication of the engine, but without full-flow filtration.

 

Ha ha ha I know I copied this from Wix website but shesh they summed it up better than I could.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Thats all well and good. But you know how many datsuns failed do to owner running it out of oil? due to lazyness!Alot !!!!!

a oil gauge does help!

 

 

FRAM suck but I myself never had a proplem

[moparvwfreak]

well my datsun didn't die due to a split filter but my Passat almost did. on tuesday the filter cap (canister filter similar to a BMW) split on me. 5 quarts of Castrol 20w50 all over my driveway. not a good way to start the day. wonder if that cap was made by Fram???? :rolleyes:

[datsunaholic]

I was very surprised when I heard that many mfgs had gone back to canister filters. Those things are a pain in the butt and make a hellova mess to change. What was the canister made of? Plastic?

[moparvwfreak]

well the canister itsself is aluminum, but the cap is plastic. and as far as i know, owning the car for 5 years now, the cap was the stock unit.

[HRH]

Yeah, a lot of those *German* cars are like that. I don't touch them, I don't want to get any Germs on me! :D I actually won't even use any German bolts on my Datsun, I'm that much of a car racist. They're great for other people to work on though!

 

Aside from VW, Audi, Mercedes, BMW, some new Chevys use a canister filter as well. I think the savings on material by making a canister with a replacement cartridge really don't offset the use of a spin on style filter.

 

Have I mentioned I just love it when women with German cars, particularly Audi come in to NAPA and make REALLY SURE you KNOW the car is an AUDI? "It's a Quattro 5000 S model, with a 5 speed, I need the factory filter." We don't have a factory filter but we have one just as good. Then knowing nothing, they proceed to get all huffy because we don't carry the exact filter that the manual states they need, and obviously we don't know anything, because it's an AUDI and it's really pretentious, oh wait, expensive, oh wait, breakage prone! :D

 

Sorry for you VW/Audi fans for the rant. We get a lot of uppity customers with those vehicles, just have to vent.

[datzenmike]

WTF is an Audi owner doing in a (kof, kof) NAPA anyway?

[moparvwfreak]

i get alot of stuff for my dubs from napa. although it takes a few tries to get the right part.

 

sometimes i even have to scratch my head on how things are put together. my passat ahs a secondary water pump. good idea on paper, but the execution was craptastic. the pump is placed vertical and its held in place by RUBBER supports. mercedes mounts them horizontal in a metal bracket. if the rubber flexes to much a $300+ pump stresses to much and fries. i can get a different bracket setup but its expencive.

[I'm BLUE]

any opinions on fram tough guard? it's the silver one that's an extra $3 or so over the orange one. I put on on my 510 but it's only seen a few hundred miles but it is ticking a bit, you guys think the more expensive one sucks too or is it any better?

 

i'll prob just grab a couple wix instead for my Rb and SR

 

The regular wix , purolator , and napa gold filters all worked well for me after I had changed from FRAM oil filters , just entirely stay away from FRAM period ! ya gotta trust me , I had the same symptoms ( read the very first post and I hope you do not find yourself in my shoes. ) there are other good oil filters apparently such as bosch ( by consensus on this thread ) , but I have never tried bosch myself. This will be the best $5-7 dollars you will spend ! Spin on the oil filter and feel the difference , hear the difference , know the difference :cool:

 

I hope this helps a bit , Thanks for listening :cool:

 

DTP

 

P.S ( It's only like $12-$15 more a year for quality filters :D ;) )