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how do i check my diz e for points bounce ?


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as some of you may have read my car is sputtering at part throttle in 4th and 5th on the free way.

 

it feels like i am getting points bounce. I am wondering how would i check to see if my breaker plate is moving when it shouldn't be? Also i have been wondering how much side to side play is allowed on the distributor shaft? it has ben so long since i checked the shaft for pay i cant remember if there should even be any .

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In order for the points to bounce, the spring on them would have to be very weak, and the engine would have to be running around 13,000 RPM.

Datsun recommends that you check the points every 3000 miles, check the valve clearance every 6,000, and do a full tuneup every 12,000.

As far as your distributer goes, ideally you should not feel any side to side play in it, but a limit of around .003 is in my service manual.

Maybe now is a good time for you to start looking for that electronic distributer.

Check for vacuum leaks. When was the las time you replaced the spark plugs?

If you really suspect you have point bounce, put a dwell meter on the coil. It should be 49 to 55 degrees, and not change much as you rev the engine.

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as some of you may have read my car is sputtering at part throttle in 4th and 5th on the free way.

 

it feels like i am getting points bounce. I am wondering how would i check to see if my breaker plate is moving when it shouldn't be? Also i have been wondering how much side to side play is allowed on the distributor shaft? it has ben so long since i checked the shaft for pay i cant remember if there should even be any .

 

that sucks time for electronic pertronix :D

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Many racers say Datsun points bounce may occur as low as 7000 RPM.

 

i have been wondering how much side to side play is allowed on the distributor shaft?
ZERO. If you can detect any play, swap a better distributor in. This is not play in the rotor, but side-to-side play of the distributor shaft. If it is 3 thousands you won't be able to feel that.

 

 

About advance plates, out of 10 matchbox distributors I bought, nine had broken plate bearings allowing the reluctor gap to vary while in use. But it doesn't seem to cause any misfiring.

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I would think that most anyone racing a Datsun has replaced the point distributer, some time around 1989.

Going down the freeway, in 4th or 5th gear, you are no where near 7,000 RPM.

13,000 was an exaggeration, used to make the point (pun intended) that I do not believe the driveability problems were caused by the points actually bouncing.

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Many racers say Datsun points bounce may occur as low as 7000 RPM.

 

ZERO. If you can detect any play, swap a better distributor in. This is not play in the rotor, but side-to-side play of the distributor shaft. If it is 3 thousands you won't be able to feel that.

 

 

About advance plates, out of 10 matchbox distributors I bought, nine had broken plate bearings allowing the reluctor gap to vary while in use. But it doesn't seem to cause any misfiring.

 

That's good to know ! do you take the gear drive wear play for the slop at .03 from side-to-side ? ( IDK never had to deal with this problem ? )

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What seems to be drive gear slop is almost always timing chain slop. It is supposed to have some. Don't worry about that.

 

Side-to-side slop is totally different. Wiggle the shaft side-to-side (be careful not to turn it while checking). If it moves, then the shaft bearing is worn. This will cause your dwell to move around, resulting in weak spark.

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What seems to be drive gear slop is almost always timing chain slop. It is supposed to have some. Don't worry about that.

 

Side-to-side slop is totally different. Wiggle the shaft side-to-side (be careful not to turn it while checking). If it moves, then the shaft bearing is worn. This will cause your dwell to move around, resulting in weak spark.

 

Ok , I understand that I mis-understood the post before , sorry for the confusion ! thanks ggzilla :D

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If you are really concerned about the points bouncing, put a dwell meter on the engine. Dwell is literally the time the points stay (or dwell) closed. About 49 to 55 degrees of dwell is correct. If the points start bouncing, the dwell will drop, Alot.

The distributer shaft side play should be less than .003, a human hair. .03, is a good gap for a spark plug.

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If you had exess point bouce i think you see it in the lower gears also.

I had this once and right off idle it would fall on its face pop a muffler(backfire) was a really worn dizzy shaft.

 

I would time your motor then look at fuel(filter or carb float maybe). ck plug wires(arching)Maybe a new Cap rotor and condensor

 

 

maybe just ck everything. ck valve lash also while doing this tune up.

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recheck the gap.

confirm that there is 0 wobble on the shaft.

this issue would manifest at high RPM, in 2-3 gear, check it out that way too.

 

replce w/a new set of points?

 

then get a 'new' e-dizzy ;)

 

 

About advance plates, out of 10 matchbox distributors I bought, nine had broken plate bearings allowing the reluctor gap to vary while in use.

the reman's ive bought dont use the plastic sleeves, seems to address this problem.

 

i didnt find that many, maybe only 25%...

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I have a electric diz e i guess i should have said that. i guess i shouldnt have called it point bounce but i did not know what ells to call it. like i said i am worried that the plate is moving. i will have to go check but i am pretty sure the distributor has a small amount of shaft play.

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I feel that shaft wear isn't going to cause the EI to miss-fire like a points set up. I would check all other high voltage ignition parts like the wires, rotor and cap. Is the coil towed carbon tracked? Is there any way the spark can find a path to ground?

 

Pull the valve cover and set at TDC on a hot motor. Check valve lash on E #1, I #1, I #2, E #3 rotate one turn on crank and check E #2, I #3, I #4 and E #4. No you don't have to use feeler gauges. You're only checking that there's some clearance here. As long as the rocker wiggles there's some clearance, I'm looking for a tight valve here. If you find one then fix it.

 

Any chance the fuel filter is getting clogged?

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I feel that shaft wear isn't going to cause the EI to miss-fire like a points set up. I would check all other high voltage ignition parts like the wires, rotor and cap. Is the coil towed carbon tracked? Is there any way the spark can find a path to ground?

 

Pull the valve cover and set at TDC on a hot motor. Check valve lash on E #1, I #1, I #2, E #3 rotate one turn on crank and check E #2, I #3, I #4 and E #4. No you don't have to use feeler gauges. You're only checking that there's some clearance here. As long as the rocker wiggles there's some clearance, I'm looking for a tight valve here. If you find one then fix it.

 

Any chance the fuel filter is getting clogged?

 

already changed the filter lol

 

i will check the valves but i doubt it will help. I adjusted the valves a couple times since the rebuild

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Yeah, grasping at straws. Perhaps a more detailed description of how it drives. Does it do this in lower gears, heavy, light throttle or just cruise, level or climbing hills? Anything you can think to add might help.

 

 

you are on the right track mike! it feels like a tight valve.It only does it when trying to maintain a steady speed in 4th or 5th on the free way. It sputters like my su's are fluttering from being slightly out of sync but if i give it 3/4 pedal or more it clears up as long as i am accelerating it does not do it .

 

Its frustrating because it is hard to describe

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