PtheDude Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 How the hell does a full grown, red blooded american man, get the BLASTED TOPFRIGGIN Engine bolt off a L20b in a Blasted 620!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad::mad::mad: What the hell do I have to do? bribe a 5 year old neighbor kid to come try and stick his little hand down in there, and then HOW DO I BREAK THE DAMN BOLT!!! I can't even get a wrench on it. I have BIG hands. WTF do I do? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Top engine bolt? If you mean one of the head bolts, here's how: Use a six-point socket, and put a piece of pipe on your breaker bar. It'll come off even if you are a lightweight. You can do the pipe method on your ratchet wrench but it might break it. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 No, the top Engine to Transmission Bolt. trying to pull my motor myself. I can't GET to it. Do I need to drop the tranny as well? I can't een get my hand back there!:mad: Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Oh that one is tricky. I don't know for sure on a 620 but in many cars if you unbolt the engine mounts and lower the tranmission down you'll be able to get to it. Or maybe you can get a combo wrench in there (without your hand) and then carefully turn it with another wrench as leverage. That's what I do with my Datsun 1200. In some Datsuns you might be able to reach it from underneath, behind, with some extensions and a socket. Quote Link to comment
spiffinspudater Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 No, the top Engine to Transmission Bolt. trying to pull my motor myself. I can't GET to it. Do I need to drop the tranny as well? I can't een get my hand back there!:mad: I remember trying to get to that one... I wonder if it was ever put back on... OH yeah, I have tiny hands:) Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I used a universal joint (maybe 2) and 3 12" extensions, and unbolted from beneath. But it took major confidence in feeling for the bolt heads. I've only done that once. Never again. Oh, and there's 2 of 'em up top. though I guess one is easier to get than the other. Lowering the tranny is little help... it hits the crossmember after a drop of abount an inch. As for how it's supposed to be done, you're supposed to remove the engine/tranny as a unit. I've done it both ways, and I will NEVER try removing the transmission by itself again (if I intend to replace it, that is). I even pull the engine/tranny unit just to change the clutch. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 i've always pulled the engine and tranny at the same time on my 521. if or when i pull my l20b out of my 620 i'll pull them both at the same time also. the thought of mating them back up under the truck makes me cringe. Quote Link to comment
djmoreron Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 ive never done it myself, but for those hard to reach bolts my girlfriend has tiny hands and 100x more patience than me. good luck Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I've done it Doug's way. You can get 24" extensions from harbor freight pretty cheap. Otherwise, a GearWrench should work from the top. and as mentioned....there should be two. Quote Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 engine and trans together is the best way...I did go to the extreme tho and have made the removal easier...actually saves dinged up trans tunnels and radiator supports and lots of cussin and stuff...also makes puttin er back in easier..not to mention takin er back out agin in case...etc...(oh and as noted tho a couple of 12" extensions and a universal will work..with some paitience..) Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I just did it the Doug way. Lay on the ground under the cab and you reach way up there with the extensions. Put a little electrical tape around the U-joint so it stays somewhat forward. (some are sloppy and the socket points down if you dont support it with tape) Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I also did it the Bleach/Doug way when i bought my Z trans. from the yard. I cant imagine removing the trans. that way on 1 of my trucks, id rather pull the engine/trans. out together. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 okay, sounds like I need to get my head around pulling the whole thing out as one. ugh. I have a small garage and a low ceiling. doesnt the engine/tranny unit have to completely vertical to get out of the truck? like 4' worth of clearance above the hoodline? I have the "how to keep your datsun alive" book, but it bounces me all around the book for pulling the engine. It doesnt talk about doing them together. now I guess I have to put the three bolts I did get out, back in!! what are the steps? cherypick engine, engine mounts, then tranny mounts? Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 drain radiator, remove radiator and hoses undo all electrical and fuel lines, disconnect throttle cable from carb drain transmission fluid, remove driveshaft, and shifter unbolt tranny mounts attach engine lift unbolt engine mounts Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Then roll truck out of garage ;) Nice meeting you yesterday :D Quote Link to comment
Guest DatsuNoob Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I had a bunch of stuff like that happen in disconnecting an AMC 360 from a Tf727 tranny in my old Jeep Wagoneer, and the best thing I could say to do is go to Sears and pick up a 3/8 drive flex head rachet($25). It's just about the best tool in a collection I think. You'll find yourself using only that rachet for everything cause of the length and leverage, then you can turn the handle and use 'em like those finger rachets in tight spots. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 remove drive shaft? does that unbolt from the transaxle? Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 remove drive shaft? does that unbolt from the transaxle? Transaxel? How did you get a 620 with a tranverse engine and AWD?? :) Yes, unbolt the driveshaft from the rear axel and unbolt the center carrier bearing from the crossmember. You don't have to do this to remove the engine but it will make it easier to remove... also, you do have to unbolt the driveshaft anyway to re-install the engine/tranny combo. Might as well do it now. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 drain radiator, remove radiator and hosesundo all electrical and fuel lines, disconnect throttle cable from carb drain transmission fluid, remove driveshaft, and shifter unbolt tranny mounts attach engine lift unbolt engine mounts Speedo cable, slave cylinder, heater hoses and exhaust down pipe. After reading this post I am so glad that I did a 4" body lift. Once I break the top two bolts loose I reach in and unscrew by hand. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 also, you do have to unbolt the driveshaft anyway to re-install the engine/tranny combo. Might as well do it now. Really? I always left it in place, and slid the driveshaft in when the engine/tranny combo was dangling from the hoist. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted September 27, 2007 Report Share Posted September 27, 2007 Really? I always left it in place, and slid the driveshaft in when the engine/tranny combo was dangling from the hoist. oh ya! :D two-piece can do that.. I forgot. The Z has a 1 piece and its not as easy to slide it forward. Quote Link to comment
copacetickid Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 I got those two bolts off with a box end from under the hood, so it's possible without a universal joint (thank god they weren't seized). Cleaned the bolt and bolt hole with a tap and die for the next time I have to do it too ;). Rant: who the fuck designed the transmission bell housing to be A CENTIMETER WIDER than the torsion bar clearance. Argh. My advice, do as they say and take the engine and tranny out together. Now what to do with my whining 280zx 5-speed.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 28, 2007 Report Share Posted September 28, 2007 I got those two bolts off with a box end from under the hood, so it's possible without a universal joint (thank god they weren't seized). Cleaned the bolt and bolt hole with a tap and die for the next time I have to do it too ;). Rant: who the fuck designed the transmission bell housing to be A CENTIMETER WIDER than the torsion bar clearance. Argh. My advice, do as they say and take the engine and tranny out together. Now what to do with my whining 280zx 5-speed.... Pulled the 4spd in my '71 years ago by removing the torsion bar. Not a big job to do. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Pulled the 4spd in my '71 years ago by removing the torsion bar. Not a big job to do. DOH!!!! and the light clicks on! That makes so much sense!!! Measure the bolt length...or count turns, mark the bar in the arm at the LCA....duh....sometimes I can't see the forest cause the dang trees are in the way!! :) Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 I don't get it. Quote Link to comment
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