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How the Bloody F**K Do I get that bastard off?


PtheDude

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How the hell does a full grown, red blooded american man, get the BLASTED TOPFRIGGIN Engine bolt off a L20b in a Blasted 620!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad::mad::mad:

 

What the hell do I have to do? bribe a 5 year old neighbor kid to come try and stick his little hand down in there, and then HOW DO I BREAK THE DAMN BOLT!!!

 

I can't even get a wrench on it. I have BIG hands. WTF do I do?

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Oh that one is tricky. I don't know for sure on a 620 but in many cars if you unbolt the engine mounts and lower the tranmission down you'll be able to get to it.

 

Or maybe you can get a combo wrench in there (without your hand) and then carefully turn it with another wrench as leverage. That's what I do with my Datsun 1200.

 

In some Datsuns you might be able to reach it from underneath, behind, with some extensions and a socket.

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I used a universal joint (maybe 2) and 3 12" extensions, and unbolted from beneath. But it took major confidence in feeling for the bolt heads. I've only done that once. Never again.

 

Oh, and there's 2 of 'em up top. though I guess one is easier to get than the other.

 

Lowering the tranny is little help... it hits the crossmember after a drop of abount an inch.

 

As for how it's supposed to be done, you're supposed to remove the engine/tranny as a unit. I've done it both ways, and I will NEVER try removing the transmission by itself again (if I intend to replace it, that is). I even pull the engine/tranny unit just to change the clutch.

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truckeenaked.jpg

 

engine and trans together is the best way...I did go to the extreme tho and have made the removal easier...actually saves dinged up trans tunnels and radiator supports and lots of cussin and stuff...also makes puttin er back in easier..not to mention takin er back out agin in case...etc...(oh and as noted tho a couple of 12" extensions and a universal will work..with some paitience..)

fixedit.jpg

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okay, sounds like I need to get my head around pulling the whole thing out as one. ugh. I have a small garage and a low ceiling. doesnt the engine/tranny unit have to completely vertical to get out of the truck? like 4' worth of clearance above the hoodline?

 

I have the "how to keep your datsun alive" book, but it bounces me all around the book for pulling the engine. It doesnt talk about doing them together.

 

now I guess I have to put the three bolts I did get out, back in!!

 

what are the steps? cherypick engine, engine mounts, then tranny mounts?

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Guest DatsuNoob

I had a bunch of stuff like that happen in disconnecting an AMC 360 from a Tf727 tranny in my old Jeep Wagoneer, and the best thing I could say to do is go to Sears and pick up a 3/8 drive flex head rachet($25). It's just about the best tool in a collection I think. You'll find yourself using only that rachet for everything cause of the length and leverage, then you can turn the handle and use 'em like those finger rachets in tight spots.

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remove drive shaft? does that unbolt from the transaxle?

Transaxel? How did you get a 620 with a tranverse engine and AWD?? :)

 

Yes, unbolt the driveshaft from the rear axel and unbolt the center carrier bearing from the crossmember. You don't have to do this to remove the engine but it will make it easier to remove... also, you do have to unbolt the driveshaft anyway to re-install the engine/tranny combo. Might as well do it now.

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drain radiator, remove radiator and hoses

undo all electrical and fuel lines, disconnect throttle cable from carb

drain transmission fluid, remove driveshaft, and shifter

unbolt tranny mounts

attach engine lift

unbolt engine mounts

 

Speedo cable, slave cylinder, heater hoses and exhaust down pipe.

 

After reading this post I am so glad that I did a 4" body lift. Once I break the top two bolts loose I reach in and unscrew by hand.

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I got those two bolts off with a box end from under the hood, so it's possible without a universal joint (thank god they weren't seized). Cleaned the bolt and bolt hole with a tap and die for the next time I have to do it too ;).

 

Rant: who the fuck designed the transmission bell housing to be A CENTIMETER WIDER than the torsion bar clearance. Argh. My advice, do as they say and take the engine and tranny out together.

 

Now what to do with my whining 280zx 5-speed....

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I got those two bolts off with a box end from under the hood, so it's possible without a universal joint (thank god they weren't seized). Cleaned the bolt and bolt hole with a tap and die for the next time I have to do it too ;).

 

Rant: who the fuck designed the transmission bell housing to be A CENTIMETER WIDER than the torsion bar clearance. Argh. My advice, do as they say and take the engine and tranny out together.

 

Now what to do with my whining 280zx 5-speed....

 

Pulled the 4spd in my '71 years ago by removing the torsion bar. Not a big job to do.

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Pulled the 4spd in my '71 years ago by removing the torsion bar. Not a big job to do.

 

DOH!!!! and the light clicks on! That makes so much sense!!! Measure the bolt length...or count turns, mark the bar in the arm at the LCA....duh....sometimes I can't see the forest cause the dang trees are in the way!! :)

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