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copacetickid

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About copacetickid

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/02/1983

Profile Information

  • Location
    Olympia, WA
  • Cars
    '79 620 Long Bed
  1. copacetickid

    Selling my '79 620

    Here's the post: http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/1372916235.html I'd like to see it go to someone that will/knows how to take care of it. I'd also like to get as much as possible out of it, seeing as I've put three times as much as I'm asking into it. I'm testing the waters CL to see if there's a demand, but if you're an interested ratsuner, I'll listen to reasonable offers.
  2. copacetickid

    Yet another carb question...

    Hey 650savag, the part you described is probably the same exact piece I need... If you have a Haynes 1973-1979 620 manual, it's the spring in number 8 - "Accelerating pump parts" (page 57). You do have to take the top of the carb off, and it's under a screw cap next to the main venturi. It pushes on a brass rod that presses on a ball bearing, which I'm guessing stops the flow of fuel until a certain pressure is reached. If you still have that spring, It's worth it's weight in gold to me (it's pretty small, so maybe more ;)).
  3. copacetickid

    Yet another carb question...

    I recently bought a stock Hitatchi (California emissions edition) to replace the Weber 32/36 in my truck (L20b). I've been having problems with the weber since I got it, but that's another story. It needed a cleaning pretty bad, so I took it apart and dipped it in that Berryman nasty nasty. Got it clean, but when I was putting it back together I noticed that the spring that sits on top of a brass cylinder that pushes on a steel ball in the accelerator pump circuit was missing. I cussed appropriately and looked all night for it, but couldn't find it. Whether it was missing when I got it or not, I don't know (I was fairly careful about taking it apart, but I wasn't looking for it). I reassembled it without the spring and after putting it on the truck and firing it up, it races like crazy. I turned the idle mixture screw in all the way in and turned out the idle speed screw all the way out and it still races at 2000 rpm. Warm or cold, choke or no choke, makes no difference. It seems pretty obvious that the missing spring is just allowing the accelerator circuit to dump fuel into the barrel continuously... The weird thing is that after blocking off every air passage, the thing still breaths. So this is a call: does anyone have non-working hitachi carb (I don't think the year/model should matter) that they can open up and mail me that damn spring?! Sadly I gave the original carb away for free... Moral of the story kids: don't fuck with something that works, just cause all your friends are doing it too.
  4. copacetickid

    WTF. Karma, or act of god?

    Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to mention it. At this point, they have probably already done most of the work though, so they have me by the balls. Bought it from a private party, and the timing belt was replaced two years/8000 miles ago so no warranty from the shop :(. Wish I'd known that about the 2.2s, I would have been happy with one, they were just less common. It seems absurd to me that the failure of something as complex and accident-prone as a serpentine belt should cause catastrophic damage by design! WTF! Unfortunately, since the car is 350 miles away I just said to go ahead with the repairs. I have a job that doesn't have very flexible hours, and I already spent half the weak picking up my partner from there. Not to mention I have to work to get paid... If this ever happens again god forbid, I'll look at getting a new engine first. Where do you go looking for a whole engine? If it's out of the car, is it really going to be problem free? I feel like if it's been in a crash, I don't want to touch it, but maybe that's silly. Thanks for the tip bru73, I'll ask them not to put factory gaskets in. I don't understand what you said about the valve adjust and the 'delt guide', but I'd like to know! What can I ask/tell the mechanic to make sure he's doing these right? The guy is nice, but telling any professional how to do their job is probably going to piss them off... and that's the last thing I want to do at this point. I do like the car, but I don't really have a choice in the matter... If I don't do the work, we're out 4K with nothing to show for it, and we'd have to buy another car with that 3K. I'd rather have this subi than one we can buy for 3K. Thanks for your sympathy Ben, I guess sometimes you just need to feel it from others.
  5. copacetickid

    WTF. Karma, or act of god?

    For the past month my partner and I have been looking for a new car for her to go to school. Her car is going to be part of her livelihood and needed to be able to handle all kinds of driving conditions. We decided after a while that a subaru station wagon would be the best fit for her, so I started researching late nineties models in our price range. I found that the 2.5L engines last forever, but have a weak link, which is the faulty head gaskets. Depending on the car, the gaskets would start to go around 100K and tend to cost at least $1500 to fix on the low end. So in searching for the right car, we turned down every one we found that hadn't had the head gaskets replaced. After a month of calls and over 40 carfax reports, we finally found what seemed to be the perfect car at a reasonable price: 118K miles, head gaskets/timing belt/clutch all replaced 1000 miles ago, good CV boots, new brakes all around, new tires, regular (documented) oil changes, clean carfax. We buy it and drive it around for a week before she has to take it to NM to go to school. She started driving on Sunday, and only made it 350 miles. She called and said that she immediately pulled off to the side of the road after hearing a funny noise from the engine and seeing all of the dash warning lights on. I immediately thought electrical, so I looked it up and sure enough a handful of subi owners say that all of their dash lights go on after their alternator goes bad. I just thought the funny noise was probably her imagination. I asked her to see if the car would start. Nope. Ok, well the battery is probably too drained. It turns over though? That's strange. It turns over but doesn't start. Time to call a tow truck I guess. The local import mechanic is closed on sundays, so she gets a room at a hotel. The next morning she calls and says "I think I'm going to vomit." The battery/alternator were fine, so they pulled off the timing cover and found that the two camshafts on the passenger side were misaligned by 90 degrees. Wow. Zero compression in the passenger cylinders. Time to pull the heads and see the damage. The guy doesn't know how it happened, maybe the hydraulic tensioner started leaking oil. There were also a hundred little bits of black plastic floating around in the timing belt compartment, and a piece of rubber gasket missing from the timing cover. So monday I drove down to pick her up and looked at the engine. The four exhaust valves were bent and left dings in the pistons but at least the intakes didn't look like they hit. Also, the idler pulleys and the tensioner had rough bearings and probably had never been replaced. I looked it up in the records, and sure enough when the timing belt was replaced no other component from that assembly was replaced. We just spent $4500 for the car, and in the blink of an eye, we're in the hole 3K more. There is no emoticon that can convey my disgust. Whether it's because some mechanic was sloppy when replacing the timing cover, the PO took a shortcut and didn't have the right parts replaced, or a simple freak occurrence, it's times like these that make you wonder what you must be doing wrong. Oh yeah, and has anyone heard of a machine shop requiring you to get a new radiator to warranty their work?? Icing on the cake!
  6. copacetickid

    Solex locks

    Installed these locks on my 620 last weekend, and I'm happy with them. Should be hard to jimmy as the "TwinCam" I believe refers to the fact that the tumblers act on both sides of the cylinder, not just one. Also, they DO have a 'deadbolt' position. Thanks for the quick shipping gokiburix!
  7. copacetickid

    L20b + Megasquirt + TBI

    Yikes, I didn't want to start an argument. Everyone is certainly entitled to their opinion, and 72240z, I greatly appreciate your input. Without it I wouldn't be an avid reader of this forum. :) For me it's not really about sticking with the L motor, or the retro/purist appeal. For me it is about driveability/reliability/tuneability, but also about the ultimate level of control. Megasquirt is so amazing because it's totally open source and transparent, all you have to do is buy the hardware and you get the whole package. No proprietary software, no mysterious 3rd party ecu chips, you get to see exactly what is going on, and adapt it to any hardware you want. If I want to use the chip to integrate a kill switch or a clock or whatever into my car, I can because there's no restrictions to changing the firmware; more than that, there's a forum of hundreds of people who are probably willing to help you out with writing new code for it. Before I got my datto, I didn't really know shit about cars, and because it was the first car I owned that was easy (and a joy) to work on, I've learned a ton of stuff through it. That above all is what this project and all my other hobbies are about: learning anything and everything I can. I love to achieve maximum efficiency within a given system, and my 620 is that system. I know it's a little silly, but I feel a sense of loyalty to my l20b, because it's mine and I'd be letting it down if I junked it for another motor. I am not a performance-aholic, 1952cc is probably too much displacement for my mpg-oriented attitude anyway. I do have a budget yes, but in my mind if I'm going to do this project I don't want to feel limited by being forced to use a stock efi setup, or even one that keeps me from looking at the code that literally drives my truck. As for using tbi vs multiport, from what I've read there's very little to gain for the added complexity. A multiport setup takes a lot more tools than I have, experience, and money to do right. Not that I'd choose tbi if I had the right tools, the time to gain the skills, and the money either. Anyway, that was my itch over the wax type fast idle cam: it's something that I can't control and tune with the computer. I'm new to efi in general, so my thinking was that in order for the computer to control fuel enrichments, it has to be able to control the corresponding air flow, hence cars with an iac. The throttle is opened slightly by the fic, which lets enough air go by (that the air flow sensor reads) to complement the extra fuel the ecu is able to add for cold-starts. In essence, the same as holding your foot on the accelerator to warm up the engine on a cold day (which is what I currently have to do in my truck). Check me if I'm wrong on this though. And at least I'm not going to be spending as much as fineline probably did, bless him :D
  8. copacetickid

    L20b + Megasquirt + TBI

    So since the wax type cam is directly affected by coolant temp, it sounds like the cold-start enrichments aren't tunable by computer. One of the coolest parts about the MSII is that you fine tune your control over everything, including warm-up enrichments. It would be a shame if I couldn't use that feature... I've had serious issues tuning my carb's fast idle/choke, and it's half the reason I want to move to EFI. ...also with multiport injection?? I'd probably go that route if I could, I'm just no fabrication wizard. Also not ready to shell out $400 for a custom mani on top of the six or seven hundred for the MSII.
  9. copacetickid

    L20b + Megasquirt + TBI

    Thanks for the info 72240z, I didn't know about the TBI on the z22/24. Sounds like maybe a better size match, not to mention the bolt pattern being close (the EA82 TB is gonna need a crazy adapter). It looks like it comes off of a post-'85 hardbody or a late model 720... I guess I'll start looking for one of those years at the yard. Are they really that plentiful? Looking at the pictures you posted I'm confused. I haven't heard of a 'wax' type fast idle cam... is it coolant temp controlled like a thermostat? Weird that it's even on there, I thought all EFI setups had idle air control and just adjusted the pulse width for enrichments... And what does the fast idle valve control if not air or fuel?? :confused: Skib: did L26s have TBI, or are the off of something else? Are they complete enough that I could get one running? :D
  10. copacetickid

    L20b + Megasquirt + TBI

    I'm starting to gather a parts list for my EFI conversion in my 620. I haven't nailed down much yet, but I'm fairly sure I want to try to go the route of throttle body injection to make the manifold issue easy. I also own a '88 subaru GL with a EA82 with SPFI, which is where I got my inspiration. Before I go too far down this road, I want to make sure this will work. Since those subis are all over the place in WA, I figured it'd be cheap to get all of the components and sensors necessary off of that engine. My main concern is that since the ea82s are 1.8L, the throttle body itself isn't going to be big enough for my l20b. The throat at its narrowest part (the butterfly valve) is only around 1 3/4", which worries me slightly. However, I'm not doing this for performance as much as efficiency. I did a rebuild of my motor recently and it's completely stock, so I'm not looking to push it very hard. On the other hand, the beauty of EFI is that performance doesn't come at the cost of efficiency, it's just a matter of finding the right map. I don't want the throttle body to be a significant bottleneck when merging on the highway. There's more than a handful of people that have done EFI conversions on this forum, but I haven't seen a TBI one yet. Just wondering what people think. Does anyone know of other makes with TBI that would match up better?
  11. copacetickid

    Solex locks

    Still would like a set.
  12. copacetickid

    Solex locks

    pmed you yesterday
  13. copacetickid

    feeling sick

    Been looking for that right rear parking break cable (long bed or king cab). Any chance I'd find one there? Is it the place you helped me with my rear suspension at?
  14. copacetickid

    Hainz's "banzai 510" rebuild

    Just read this thread. Damn!!
  15. copacetickid

    Define: "Getting Fucked"

    wanna read something that will really piss you off about bankers (and insurance companies)?
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