datzenmike Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 I don't get it. Rant: who the fuck designed the transmission bell housing to be A CENTIMETER WIDER than the torsion bar clearance. Argh. It's generally accepted that there isn't much room between the two torsion bars to lower the transmission down past, to remove it. I think I removed the pass side torsion bar(don't quote me here Mike that was in the '70s, kind of blurry ) and it allowed me to turn the tranny a little sideways while lowering it. I do remember clamping Vice-Grips on it and tapping with a hammer to release it back from the L/C arm spline. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 ya...that's what I was getting at....now that you mentioned removing the bars, it's an obvious option. The bars are pretty easy to remove...even if you did both of them. On a lowered rig, the bars would already be backed off or close to loosened all the way. Measuring the bolt length was about the bolt setting the torsion on the bar. You'd want to put it back where it was originally, so measure the length or count the turns it takes to completely loosen it. The splined end is not keyed, so you'd want to mark it and the arm on the LCA before pulling it out. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted September 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 okay. The shifter is out. do I have to remove the driveshaft? Where do I disconnect the shaft at? posting this an then doing a search. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 If you are removing the motor and transmission as a unit, the drive shaft spline will disengage as the tranny moves forward. (be sure the oil is drained or it will leak out the back) Note that when you put it back in as the tranny moves back into place, have someone start the spline into the opening. If you are removing the tranny only, the drive shaft will have to be removed to allow the tranny to move backwards to disengage the input spline from the clutch. Remove the four nuts and bolts from the differential yoke and the two mounting bolts for the carrier bearing (it has the big rubber dough-nut around the front half of the two piece drive shaft) The drive shaft assy will now pull out of the back of the tranny. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Okay, so it looks like I have to take out the steering cross beam link. I got the pin and nut off there, but I cant get the pinion up, I banged on it a few times with the rubber mallet. the 4 bolt cross support, that's gotta come out too, right? I finally unbolted the driveshaft. it was apparent that there was no way I was going to pull the engine forward enough to pull that outa there. damn truck is 1/2 diss-assmebled. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 hope this truck get completed!!!!!!! I remove the water pump also to get a little more room jack the trans up maybe also to clear the steering arm/bar that goes across Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 damn truck is 1/2 diss-assmebled. That'll happen... :P Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 The main crossmember does not need to be removed to get the engine out nor does any of the steering components. Are you using an angle adjuster on your hoist? If not it'll take awhile longer to get it out.... Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 I always undid one side of the steering arm to get engines out. It makes it a lot easier. Maybe if the truck is 3 feet off the ground you can get enough tilt on the engine to clear. From my memory even that won't work. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 I never undid any suspension or steering components. Even with the truck on it's wheels. Having a tilting device helped a LOT. While this was a 521, gives an idea of how much tilt it takes. Of course, with that 521 I didn't care how much damage I did to the body. Why I didn't just cut the core support out I don't know, it certainly wasn't salvageable. Oh, I DID have to turn the wheels to one side to push the tie rod forward to clear the sump... it does move front/rear when turning. Full right, I think. Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 on a 620 you have to move the engine forward to let the tail end of the transmission clear the crossmember. The pan won't come forward unless that steering arm is out of the way. I guess theDude will find out himself Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 But I've done MULTIPLE 620 engine changes, Bleach. I've never removed the crossmember or steering arms/tie rods. I just don't have pics of me pulling an engine from a 620. The last one I did was when I put the ZX tranny in my '76 KC. Yes, I had the front wheels up on ramps, so I could get under it to disconnect the clutch slave, trans mount, wires, speeds cable, etc. But to get the engine out I lifted the engine a couple inches until the tranny bell was just under the tunnel, which was sufficient for the pan to clear the tie rod (the suspension crossmember was already under the engine). Pull forward until the crank pulley is nearly up against the core support center section- the tranny tail is now clear of the welded ladder frame. Then tilt, lift, tilt, lift, until the pan is above fender level, swing the tranny tail out of the tunnel sideways, level the tilter, roll whole kitten caboodle out and lower the hoist. I even pulled a junkyard tranny out without an engine hoist- I just wrestled the engine up over the crosslink and tie rod by hand, which gave enough clearance to drop the tranny. The engine was missing the head and manifolds so it was light enough to wrestle, but my back didn't feel too great for the next few days. But, if he really wants to pull all that stuff, he needs to get a fork-type balljoint separator. Insert between parts to be pulled apart and wail away with a sledge. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 NO! I don't want to pull it! I pull that steering link out and it'll never turn right again. I cant get the engine up hign enough for the oilpan to clear the steering beam. drive shaft is gone, input shaft is resting on the welded crossmember. I lift the engine up from the front and the trnny bell hits the top of the frame and I can't tilt, etc. valve cover is still on, does that need to come off? I tried pulling the pan off but that was stupid. put it back. where can I get the oil pan gasket? napa? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 I pull that steering link out and it'll never turn right again. Then it'll be a circle-track truck... they only turn left. How the heck does the tranny bell hit the frame? Maybe you meant the bell hits the tunnel in the cab. Turn the wheels to the right, it's only an inch difference. I know, you don't want to bend anything. Gaskets at Schucks, or NAPA, or CArQuest. Pretty common as the NAPS-Z through '89 used the same pan gasket. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 correct, hits the tunnel. I couldnt find the correct word. the tail of the trany is touching and I'm connected to the front of the engine. Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted October 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 ITS OUT!!!! ITS OUT!!!!:):):) Doug, thanks for the pic. That 'splained to to me real slow like, like I was a 2 year old. My engine came out at even a greater angle then that. Easier to put them back in at the same time, or Tranny seperate? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Well, they're easier to pull separate... if you take the engine out first. It's next to impossible to put the tranny in last (it's doable, I've done it... ONCE, never again- had to unbolt the cab and lift it off the frame to get room). The hard part is getting the transmission aligned with the clutch. It's hard enough with both out. But you have to have the same extreme angle tilt to get it in. The pic I had was a 521 which has a 4" shorter transmission, plus I didn't care if I bent the core support to hell since the truck was rolled and was going to the scrapyard anyway. Should have sent the engine with it, it was siezed. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 I knew you'd get it out :D Quote Link to comment
Bleach Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 I've done that work every way. I've dropped trannys, replaced the clutch, and re-installed the transmission. (I'll have you know I lifted the tranny up there by hand, by myself and aligned it) :D I've also removed the engine by itself and put it back in. Done both ways on both the 4 and 6-cyl engines. For some reason I was never able to get the engine/tranny combo to clear that steering arm. The engine would bind between the firewall and steering linkage. I would just pop one side off and it had plenty of room them. A 280ZX has much more room. In my turbo parts car I had fun with the sawsall and cut out the front end of the car. I just lifted the engine a little and pulled it straight forward. good times Quote Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 A 280ZX has much more room. In my turbo parts car I had fun with the sawsall and cut out the front end of the car. I just lifted the engine a little and pulled it straight forward. good times and that boys and girls is the reason I went to the trouble of removing the center section of my white '72s radiator support...just pull it straight out and slide it straight back in..tranny and all.....:P Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 THAT'S CHEATING!! :P Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted October 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 It's totally cheating and it infuriates me everytime he show off! Curse you Ron! ( can you come to seattle and do mine???) :P Quote Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 I really do apologize to all of ya..being a welder for so damn many years and also workin as a sheet metal man before that..(over 40 years in the aerospace and automotive industry)..I just found it easy to do what I did to the white truck....really it isn't that hard IF you could get the center section "wings welded....then it is just a mater of drilling, tapping, locating the holes in the support, and then just bolting it back in place...ya ya I know easy for me to say huh...again sorry guys... Oh and it really isn't showin off is it...just tryin to pass on my experience.....see I can do this, but when it comes to rebuildin a motor...gotta watch the Hainz video...so we all have something to offer... Quote Link to comment
PtheDude Posted October 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 All in good fun, bro all in good fun. Now, about that trip to Seattle~! Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 Not to be a show off too but...my core support unbolts too :D Mine was replaced because of heavy damage from the PO... Quote Link to comment
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