metalmonkey47

It's super easy. No need to mess with timing the motor (other than re-checking ignition timing and making minor adjustments when done). Probably less than an hour for the average Datsun mechanic. -Mark distributor location and remove distributor -Used needle nose vice grips or equivalent to grab the top of the oil pump drive spindle. Clip the top to keep it from falling down when you remove the oil pump. -Unbolt oil pump, drop it out of the way. -Clean gasket surfaces, be sure to fill the pump with oil and prime it before installing the new pump -Install freshly primed pump. You won't need to do anything more than rotate the pump to line the end of the drive spindle up with the slot in the pump, provided you used methods in first step to properly hold the drive spindle in place. Once it's in place, you're pretty much done. -Grab your timing light, check / set ignition timing. Viola! You're done. You may have to loosen the sway bar, IIRC I had to do so on either my 620 or my 240Z to slide it out. This may not be necessary on a 510, maybe others can chime in. Buy either a KA24E oil pump from an '89 240SX or L28ET oil pump from a ZX Turbo. Both are direct swaps and much better than the original L16 oil pump. (higher volume) I like Melling brand oil pumps and used them on all my L motors.

Alas, I miss mine. She'll come back to me soon

Consider gear ratio when you're buying a used LSD, there are a few different ratio's available in all of the R200 equipped cars with factory VLSD. 350Z / G35 (03-'06 G's) Auto: 3.357 Manual: 3.538 370Z / G37 Auto: 3.357 Manual: 3.692 There are a few unicorn 3.9 diffs available in some odd low production # (or just plain newer) models. https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload/Z1350ZG35370ZG37GearRatios.pdf Different ratio ring & pinions are plentiful if you decide to make a gear change for a different course in the future, just know that you CANNOT use any of the available gears (list HERE) if you buy an automatic LSD. The ring gear offset is different, so they aren't interchangeable with manual gears. Also, do not buy a G37 automatic differential, they have a different companion flange and ring gear than the manual counterparts and won't work with your driveshaft unless you get a 3 bolt companion flange made for the shaft. If you plan on just buying the VLSD carrier and not an entire spare diff, let me know. I have a few of those sitting around in the shop at work that came out of low mile builds.

Borrowed this a few times over the last month.... I wasn't a fan of C7 Z06's until I had driven one. Truly an impressive car made better with the carbon brakes, carbon seats, carbon aero....hell 120k just thrown into it from the factory. DSC_1566.jpg by Matt Yates, on Flickr DSC_0824.jpg by Matt Yates, on Flickr DSC_0853.jpg by Matt Yates, on Flickr

Saw this at Barber Motorsports Museum. 1953 MG-TD Barber Museum by Matt Yates, on Flickr

Are you planning on putting the car on scales when you're done? I'd be curious what the overall weight is when completed and running.

Sure, to a certain extent. I wouldn't track on them simply because of their weight. Also, the current Torque Thrust wheels are different in production from the original wheels the Can-Am cars used. Datsun's aren't heavy, I wouldn't expect that you're going to be side loading just about any wheel hard enough that you'll break it unless you're in a powerful car with slicks. What size wheels are you running?

Link in the above post doesn't work

Just FYI, you're probably going to tear that compression rod bushing again, actually a pretty common failure on this chassis. Kinda surprised yours fell apart like that. Solid replacements may be in your future. https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspension/spl/spl-front-compression-rod-bushings-p-5087.html

Great story.

That would first require cali to have a positive balance of points.

Take a picture down the collector.

What size tires?

I just bought two sets of NOS 510 Fender Mirrors, I don't even have a Datsun. Oh and I bought two Hakosuka C10 'Skyline' fender emblems. I'll never own a car to put those on. Lol wise investments

I actually took a picture of it yesterday. I had my camera, saw an interesting perspective, and snapped it. Since I last updated, the car has gotten giant 14'' brakes, new 200tw Nexen tires, and a variety of other wild bullshit that I really didn't need to spend money on, but did anyways like a Eurospec rear fog light. LRM_EXPORT_20180515_225440 by Matt Yates, on Flickr For shits and giggles, our Time Attack 370Z circa this morning still in Global Time Attack trim. We took first place in Street RWD class at Road Atlanta Saturday in this monster. It makes about 560whp and still has a lot left in it. Z1 Motorsports Time Attack 370Z by Z1 Motorsports, on Flickr

They're okay cars. They had a VK45DE (V8) hence the M45. It's a first gen Y34 chassis, similar to the G35 but lacking the aftermarket support. The Y34 chassis was only made from 07/02-12/04 so its short production run makes it an oddity. Their maintenance cost isn't too terrible, but that's assuming it doesn't need a ton of work right off the bat. (Lets be honest, a high mileage infiniti thats over a decade old is probably going to be clapped out unless you spend a fair amount on a nice car) You'll honestly probably be happier in the long run with a G35. Great aftermarket support, easy to find, fun to drive, etc.

You need just the AP Racing hubs for their 2-piece rotors? I'd call Stillen. https://www.stillen.com/ap-racing/

We use it at work from time to time. Our 550hp TT 370z that we use for time attack gets E85, as well as most of our own DD's that are boosted. Sometimes use E85 on NA cars when we're trying to squeeze power. E85 is scarce out here in GA.

I love E85, but I hate it at the same time. Great for squeezing a bit more power, especially from forced induction cars but the drop in fuel economy, lack of supply and its corrosiveness make it sucky to use.

Thanks man, Everything I shot above was done on one of two lenses, shot with a D800. -Sigma 35mm f1.4 ART -Sigma 70-200 f2.8 DG HSM I don't have as much experience as I'd like with pan shots, I need more practice but I feel like I've done well.

OP, I think a lot of what you're looking to learn can be found in the Datsun1200.com wiki. (linked below) Some of this might help you better understand what some of the acronyms people are using mean. General Engine Modification: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Engine_Modifications Distributorless Ignition: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=EDIS Fuel System: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Fuel_System Best place to start looking is valvetrain. Cams, valve springs, maybe even some port work just to help it flow. It probably has a Weber 32/36 carb on it. That's a progressive carb made by weber for economical performance. Weber makes a 38/38 synchronous carb that is a bit larger, would work well with a bit bigger cam and supply more than enough air for a high revving A-series engine. I ran one on my 2.2 stroker years back and loved the response, it wasn't nearly enough carb for me, but it'll be more than enough for an itty bitty A-series engine.

Reach out to the folks at Tomei, they've been building and racing A series motors for decades. They've developed a fair amount of parts over the years, although I doubt many are still available. Making power in an A-Series is expensive but rewarding. Also, are you competing in a particular series with restrictions on modifications? If engine swaps are possible, because you have a B310 (210) you can swap L-Series in fairly easily by utilizing the A10 chassis 510's front crossmember. IIRC it bolts directly into the 210.

Someone got a picture of my shit pile on Road Atlanta last October.

I work for Z1 Motorsports (link) I guess cheap is a relative term haha