metalmonkey47

And I have this reallllly nifty camper shell that would look good on it.

You better have pics for me tomorrow!

I am so excite!

Here's a little somethin somethin guys. Daniel apparently hasn't been on since the forum changes or something like that :rofl: We goofed around with this one while welding on the upper truss.

Wait, are we still going on about the classifieds?

Hey Daniel, looks like the circuitry seems to be pretty similar between the 240Z and other Datsun's. Interesting, I always thought that the flashers were generally faster with LESS load (why they flash faster when a bulb is burned out.) The hazard switch seems to be the common connection between the turn signals and hazards so I need to back trace some of that wiring. The down side is that so much wiring was cut right out of the fusebox into the main harness it's almost impossible to repair without a donor harness and unfortunately, the '70 Harness seems to be different from any other year and hardest to find. I pulled all the bulbs and still get a load on the hazard flasher, so yes, that would indicate a short. I was brainstorming at the beginning here, but it all seems to point right back to a possible short. Probably a result of the crappy wiring done by the PO.

So this is all regarding my '70 240Z's wiring. Although most of what I'm going to ask is just going to be universal Datsun knowledge. My turn signals don't work on my 240. Hazards work very weirdly. Flash very fast, then slow down slightly. Then fast, then slow. ALL bulbs are working with no corrosion in the sockets. After running the flashers for a moment, the flasher gets HOT along with the wiring and starts to smoke slightly. Seems like a short, but no obvious wiring issues that I've found. Now something I'm not used to is this style flasher. It's a Signal stat 175 flasher two prong, similar to the canister ones I've found on later Dattos. Not sure if it's stock or not, but the car is pretty much 100% original. Rather then having a plastic 2 prong plug like every other Datto/car I've ever owned it's got two female spades. Is it possible that this flasher could be connected backwards causing a short? Or the 44 year old flasher could just be shot? Seems to me that if there was a short in the vehicle harness it would simply just flash SLOW (since the flashers are load based) rather then fast which typically happens at low load, like when a bulb is burned out.

BUMP: New link http://www.chilsonwilcox.com/autocheck.php?vin=1C3BC2FB5BN582899 Remember, just change your vin in the address bar. That easy.

Too bad they couldn't figure out how to circle the problem like Ford.

This in a Z car: Bonus points if you know what it is.

Wix 15151 or Napa Gold 1515 (same thing)

Wonder why the turbo and manifold were missing if the motor is 'okay' after the accident.

Pull your air cleaner off and check a few things.... 1: is the choke open or closed? If closed, the idle will be quite high. Check to see you have 12V at the choke heater...unless it's a manual choke Weber. 2: Are the throttle plates closing all the way at idle? Perhaps something is binding in the throttle cable/linkage and holding the throttle open.

Is the Maxima spring rate close between the front and rear?

What oil are you using? I had a similar issue in my 240 when the weather started to change, I turned down another 1/2 and solved the issue. According to the guys at ClassicZCars the SU's need another 1/2-full turn down as the temp starts to drop. Just something to consider.

Thanks guys, turns out when you only have 4 hours of sleep, you forget what you post out of excitement :geek: Here's the little dude! He'll be driving Datsun's and gettin all the ladies before ya know it :thumbup:

Seems like all the subie hater have never owned/driven/worked on one. My buddies STi is nastyyyyyy from the day he owned it. Also, super easy to work on. I swapped his alternator literally in 10 minutes and that was taking my time. So easy to make power on those too.

They're referring to more recent automatic transmissions. 'Flushing' a high mileage automatic can be catastrophic. Garbage in the trans can get knocked loose and clog the valve body/passages/etc.

Stoked guys!! Can't help but share, my brother-in-law and sister had their first kid less then an hour ago! Can't wait to teach this little guy the way of the Datsun :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

I'd rather be cautious and ensure nothing gets broken or any harm is done. That said, Datsun drum brakes are easy. I'll usually pull the bottom of the trailing shoe straight back with gloves on (so you don't scrape up your knuckles against the backing place) until it's off of the adjuster, and then pull it apart from there. Very easy. Re-assembly is as easy as placing the shoes behind the hub, setting your springs in place, and setting the leading shoe on the adjuster and top portion. Then just stretch the lower of the leading shoe over the adjuster and you're cherry. Make sure you clean/lube the adjuster well or you'll be doing the whole thing over again to get out the adjuster. Edit: Noticed you're north of atlanta, LMK if you ever run into trouble. I can't imagine I'm too far away.

Sealant should -never- be necessary on any Datsun, provided the sealing surfaces are flat, and clear of any leftover material.

If you use a one piece driveshaft, you should be okay. My pinion angle was dead on with a one piece in my 620, about 5-ish inches lower then stock.