metalmonkey47

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/11561-lose-the-pointsgo-electronic-ignition/

So sorry to hear man... how are YOU? Rushed to the hospital doesn't sound good.

I like the camper. But I'm with everyone else. Ditch the wheels..

This thread is awesome That bimmer at 3:00 was really trying to get around you.

Try contacting the guys at Innovate. I'm pretty sure that's what wideband controller you're using based off of the plug.

Fuel filter was the first thing I thought. Needle and seat are both brand new. It wasn't until I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge, that read a flat ZERO that i realized there was an issue. Took a small clean bucket and disconnected the fuel pressure regulator 'output' and turned the pump on. It trickled... not even that...it was like a 2 year old spitting in a bucket. Did the same thing out of the pump, no different. 40 PSI through the fuel line and BAM sudden fuel pressure! Gonna drop and clean the tank out asap, and install a filter at the tank.

WOW why haven't I seen this thread bump in the last year? The updates are AWESOME!

Gonna disregard that for a little bit, I'm on my phone so it hard to respond to all of that but I will get back to it ASAP when I'm in front of my computer It started running poorly yesterday so I killed the engine immediatly and coasted to a safe place, pulled the float bowl covers, and found the front carb was EMPTY! I raised the float height a tad assuming the float was set lower then I thought, and it seemingly solved the issue, but caused the front carb to start flooding. No bueno. I lowered it a hair, it no longer floods, but now its acting up again. Weird thing is that this ONLY happens on the front carb, not the rear.

I ran about 7 without the regulator and still had the issue. Just added the regulator because the float needles started leaking. This was before replacing them.

Cap, rotor, coil, wires, basically everything is new. Spark plugs look fine, golden brownish.

I was going to post this on classic cars but apparently windows phone fails with forums... Anyways, I just did he head gasket on my L24 about 2 months ago, put an N47 maxima head on it to replace the damaged E31, electric fuel pump and regulator (Maxima head is not cut for mechanical pump). Running verified 3psi out of the regulator. ZX E12-80 dizzy/module with stock rebuilt round top SUs. I spent the last few days getting the carbs dialed in. I'm very close to perfect tune but I can't drive it and dial it in because of the following issue. Anytime I load the motor up, hills, hard driving, it starts to break up and will NOT rev. It feels like it starts running poor on every cylinder. I've reset the timing, checked float height, replaced needle and seat, set timing, etc. It has gotten more prominent then ever, happening on nearly every drive now. It makes it impossible to get anywhere. the car idles fine when it starts to break up. After a few minutes idling its fine again for a short time until it starts breaking up again. I can usually clutch in and rev it a few times, and it will sort itself out for a short bit but its gotten useless now. I can tell right before it starts to happen because it smells obviously rich and on decel it starts popping/backfiring from the exhaust. Timing is dead on 30degrees at full advance, and 10 at 800rpm.

ZX is a totally different car. 240 or bust.

Need help unloading?

Were the plugs replaced after doing the head gasket last time?

Do a compression test.

PO was a 'tard. It was running but 'good' was subjective... Just enough to get me back and forth to work. It was breaking up anytime you tried to rev past 4000 RPM. And lets be honest... it's not fun driving a Z slow. I want to dial the carbs in better, but the timing needs to be dead on ball accurate first. PO had it running good enough, but you couldn't quite get it within the right 'realm' of adjustment one tooth off. I got it there now, for the time being until I get a new pedestal to match the dizzy. IMO, it's so easy to fix it the right way, why take short cuts? I cheated a little, but I'm going to get a new pedestal.

Come one guys, have faith. It was at TDC compression stroke. I'm no newb. Had a spark plug out, and watched for the timing table on the crank to come around, checked valves on cyl 1 both fully closed. its a 2 prong E12-80 module. the main issue in having is that I'm running way retarded on timing. Its got a points pedestal on it with an EI dizzy, and has a lobe on the back of the pedestal that the dizzy is hitting so I'm not reaching full advance. That's why PO had it off a tooth before, which is why he's retarded. if it was timed on the exhaust stroke the rotor would be pointed the opposite way.

240Z L24 ZX Matchbox Turns out the PO or someone that previously worked on it for him was a total retard. My dizzy was off a tooth, so I dropped the oil pump to correct it and set timing, and now I feel like I'm doing something wrong or missing a step... Set the pump shaft to match the dots on pump shaft and pump with cyl 1 @TDC. Pulled all the wires and re-installed in the correct positions (length) Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Counter Clockwise Puts NO.1 right here... Can't get it to run correct now, back firing out the carb and shit... timing must be uber retarded like the PO. Maxed out the advance on the dizzy and it's still nowhere close. The second adjustment screw on the bottom is hitting the pedstal. Only thing I can guess is that the PO or whoever put on the matchbox used the points pedstal (also had points cap/rotor on it.. wtf) and the ear prevents me from getting the proper amount of advance. Am I right or am I missing something? This is my first time playing with an L series like this...never had to before.

seriously didn't know :P Got bored at work last night and started looking at other Nissan Alternators/

is that so? hmmm didnt realize.

620 funk has moved on. The very last picture of her. Master-o-turbonics has now taken over... this truck has huge plans, and I'm glad to see it's in better hands.

1990 Maxima alternator. Almost a perfect fit, 90 amp, 2 wire regulator,internal fan, almost the same pulley diameter (you'll have to swap pulleys) and its far cheaper then a saturn alt with the same output. *These pictures are next to a 60 amp 240Z alternator*

If everyone in the world drove a Datsun, I probably wouldn't want to.

I don't think I could take the cold dude!! So used to 100 degree weather now. I wouldn't mind the job upgrade though :thumbup: