rbastedo

I may have mistaken the number, it's the one on the left side and the other number on the top is 402. Not sure what head it it, haven't seen one before.

For A series engines it says, I haven't seen one of these before. Is it a GX head? Seller indicates maybe but doesn't know for sure. Is it worth the price he's asking? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-A-Series-Race-Head-1200-B210-210-A12-A13-A14-A15-SCCA-GX-JDM-BRE-/351328954887?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Hi Andy, I've got a Bugeye Midget with an A15 and the H89 head along with a pair of HIF-4 SU's. I'm over in Snoqualmie, not far from you. I ordered a set of pistons from Rock Auto, haven't installed them yet. Rick

Geez trust someone with a Walter White tagline to cut to the chase and just get to the point. That makes so much sense I can't believe I didn't see it myself. Thanks Mike!

Right now the stock exhaust runs within 1/16 - 1/8 inch from the drivers foot well. If I can get a header in there maybe I can get it to fit with a bit more space between the exhaust and foot well, which would decrease operating temperature inside near the accelerator pedal and that would make longer drives a lot more comfortable. I've insulated the area but it still gets very warm. I am open to other ideas, is there a header for another engine that's close, could be cut and re-welded or heated and bent / adjusted? I expect to have to do something to anything I get as this application isn't "standard".

Here is my ultimate plan for the car, it's called an Arkley SS. I have the glass body kit and (no shit) gold plated suspension parts from the dearly departed ex USA importer of the Arkley. I'll buff up all the suspension parts before installing and probably clear coat it all so as to make it easy to keep clean. The guy was nuts for having stuff plated and this was going to be his personal car before he passed, I bought it from the widow. (this isn't my car, just an example that shows what I hope to do with mine)

Thank you! It has the H89 head, dual British HIF4 SU carbs. At this point installing a header is an option, I haven't looked into it at all but I think it would at least look cool in there and would maybe increase performance a little? Anyone got suggestions for a good but not too expensive exhaust header? It won't be sitting in traffic, I "drive it like I stole it" most of the time. I may have been known to do stuff like: seeing a very straight and well paved piece of empty highway ahead I may have given in to temptation a couple times. I have driven this car at Road America, Elkhart Lake Wisconsin, (actually on the track for an event) in a "spirited" way. So I don't want anything that will make it too uncomfortable on a road trip but I'd like it to have a little more punch and maybe some longer legs under it. One thing to consider is that currently the exhaust exits very close to the drivers footwell, I have insulated the heck out of this area but it still gets pretty warm there. The car has a 3.73:1 rear end and the 60 series dogleg 5 speed.

Tacoma - just around the corner from me. Thanks! Any suggestions on what to ask to be done to my cam? I've never had one done before.

I see the last I posted about my A15 motor rebuild was Oct. 1st. My new pistons are pressed onto the rods and they're sitting in a box. I've got rings and all the tools I need to reassemble, but before getting to it I'm wondering if there's any great Bang for the Buck upgrades I could do? It's got a stock cam, would getting it reground be beneficial? I want to use the car for driving, not racing but am not opposed to a bit of extra power. Is there a better then original oil pump or anything else I should do before buttoning it up? Thanks!

Thanks Mike and Daniel, I ordered a set of pistons already. I have a digital caliper and my measurement of the cylinders shows very slight differences. Interestingly there are numbers stamped in the face of the block. The more you learn. B)

Have to confess I didn't even think of that! Wonder what got in there, wasn't anything in there when I pulled it apart.

I've been soaking the pistons in gas for a few weeks and got around to cleaning them up this morning. #1 - #3 look very good, like new! #4 looks really bad, it was also the most crusted with carbon. Now it's decision time, buy a set of new pistons or just the one to replace this one? Also what do the numbers mean? Some have a "2" like this and the others have a "3". This was a spare A15 motor that came with a type 60 5 speed I bought from a guy, I'm rebuilding this to replace the motor in my green Midget.

Thanks Morrisun, Hey I was just down in your area last weekend, driving my brown 4 door 210 around the place! Yes maybe someday I'll put in a hotter cam but like you say the rear axles are a known issue on these cars. I've seen my share of broken and twisted axle splines on other people's cars. The A15 with the H89 and a pair of 1.5" side draft carbs puts out enough to keep me happy in my Midget. After I get rid of the steel bonnet and install fiberglass and do a few other weight reducing operations it will be even better. This one has the 60 series dogleg 5 speed from a 79 210 and the 3.7 rear diff making it a great highway cruiser.

So I caught a bad cold and just got back to this engine after mostly recovering. I pulled the pistons, they slid right out without having to be pounded with a stick or any of that kind of force - I had to push them with my hand but otherwise they didn't give a lot of resistance. The bearings hardly look worn at all. I'm wondering if this motor may have been rebuilt recently, there's no gunk inside anywhere. New bearings and rings and button it up with the new gaskets and slip it into my car and go. Stock build with my H89 and a pair of SU HIF4 carbs along with that dogleg 5 speed and I'll be a very happy driver in my little 1500 pound car!

Thanks everyone, just read through the whole thing. Very good reminder of what to do / not do before I get my new rings.