yenpit

Lookin' great Mike!! Love the BLACK silicon hoses......blue only works on a Subbie or newer Civic! Are those cast aluminum pcs some old school manufacturer??

I think they are the "snap in" type socket, like the turn signal bulb sockets. You might be able to use the t/s sockets with some splicing to the wiring, and I think the same 3 prong flat plastic plug was used somewhere else under the dash (??). All of my parts (tachs & dash/turnsignal) are already packed up for my move, so I can't verify this, BUT I did briefly look at that a few months ago, simply out of curiosity, and wondered if it would work in a pinch!

Doooood! It's just a scratch! :crying:

Where in NY?? I hope you guys aren't on the coast! Man, NYC got clobbered last night........... :crying:

Yes, perfectly safe, as long as you don't aim the nozzle at one spot for any length of time. Sandblasting leaves the surface "etched" more than glassbeading. Any "pitting" that might appear, were already there from bad casting OR oxidation, and the blasting process simply cleaned out those pits........better to know they are there, for better preperation for paint or powdercoat. Don Sr & Don Jr are both very helpful up at Consolidated. Enter the office at the north end of the building, tell 'em I sent you, and that you have some old Datsun parts that you want to blast. They'll set you up on the blasting cabinet, and give you a quick rundown on how to use the equipment, and away you go! If you ask, Don Jr will talk yer ear off, about the ins & outs of blasting, and if you listen intently, he might even tell you about his absolutely mentally crazy Chinese mail-order ex-wife :frantics: (yes, I'm serious!!)........I don't recommend asking :crying: . Good luck with the project!

fiveseventyzee......holy crap that's a great idea! Jake, take the wheels up to Consolidated Stripping in Plainwell, and sandblast them, which "etches" the surface for paint or powdercoat. You rent the sandblast cabinet, do it yourself. Wear old clothes cuz the place is filthy, AND wear long sleeves, cuz the big rubber gloves that you stick your arms thru are disgusting.........but I still love going there! If you were going to polish them, they also have a glassbead cabinet, which leaves the blasted surface a l'il smoother.

bump for a great topic!!

Yup, post photos to Photobucket (or other host service), then right click over photo, copy, and paste right here in your text box! An extra step here on Ratsun, but I got used to it!

Sorry to hear about your loss, man! I had to let my 4-legged "kid" go 5 years ago (she was 13 yrs old), and I still think about her all the time.......well the beautiful head shot pencil drawing that hangs in my office helps with that! I always pass this along to people I know who have lost a pet, maybe it will help. http://www.petloss.com/rainbowbridge.htm Sappy, I know! Still makes me tear up............ :hmm:

You go David, make it happen!!!!!!!! :thumbup:

I am a 68-73 510 SEDAN guy at heart, but I would love to put together some other 70's import Wagon......74-newer Datsun, Toyota, Mazda, whatever.........maybe find a nice solid one once I'm out in Colorado!! Very cool Wagon!! :thumbup:

Cool.....it's an easy rebuild!

I've got a good REBUILDABLE used valve if you need one, but regardless, you should order a NEW 620 Pickup valve (still available from Nissan), and use the guts to rebuild whatever used one you get your hands on.

Nice!! I've never seen one....... :thumbup:

Yup, the original material gets "brittle" around the edges from age, and likely from the old glue too. When you try to peel it away from the edge of the metal lip, it will often tear & crack.

Just Laecoan said! The NEW (on eBay) 2dr vs 4dr headliner is the same, it's just "tucked" differently around the B-pillars & side windows. If you have a 2dr car, and a 4dr parts car, you will have trouble at the B-pillar, cuz the pillars are located differently, and they will be trimmed & cut-to-fit differently between the two. If you are gonna go thru all the trouble (removing the front & rear glass & all the side trim), just buy the NEW headliner on eBay ($125??), and save yourself the hassle of trying to make a USED one work for you. Just my 2cents!

Cut the warped area out, and buy the molding plastic "dashcap" on eBay.........they actually look great, when installed correctly!

All USA-spec 68-73 510 roof panels are the same between the 2dr & 4dr, including the front & rear glass, and the A & C-pillars. Only the B-pillars vary (and of course the doors vs the 1/4 windows), creating the 2dr vs the 4dr..........Japanese engineering at it's best, in the late 60's!! The A-pillars (and windshield glass) on the Wagons are the same. The JDM-spec Coupes are completely different.

Yup, that's the seal you need.........

Have you seen FutoFab's full rear 'glass 1/4 panels with the bubble flares? I think they are a great buy! I was gonna use them on my 68 box flared ex-SCCA car, but just sold the car this past weekend. Dave made them to help get old box flared cars back on the road or the track, cuz most of the vintage race groups won't allow the box flares! So many of those box flared cars had the rear 1/4's completely cut away, making them tough to deal with......mine was that way. I got an email this morning from the buyers of my old car, saying that the box flares were already cut off, and in the dumpster, ready for steel or 'glass 1/4's!!

Welcome to the forum.....great place to be!! If the ignition switch is on the RIGHT side, it is not original. The 70-73 510's had the switch on the left side of the column. Take care of those Panasports, cuz they are likely the best quality wheel of that style (MiniLite, Western Enkei etc etc), and are expensive new.

Great pics wead! Keep us informed on the 2dr panel!!

When I built my 98 240SX, I knew I wanted a dark metallic blue, but couldn't decide. I had already purchased a new carbon fiber & dark blue kevlar weave hood. Sitting at my shop, about 5:30pm, I see my buddy pull up out front in a Porsche Boxster (dealer car), and thought, "That is such a girlie car!!" (sorry, never liked Boxsters). As I chuckled to myself, I noticed the evening sun gleaming off of the passenger side of the car, and thought "Wow, that's a nice..........holy crap.......BLUE!!". I grabbed my new hood, and ran outside with it, almost knocking my buddy over, carefully leaned the hood up near the car, and let the sunshine do its thing! Porsche Lapis Blue, which flips to a purple in certain light. Simply killer. :thumbup:

Looks like the old Amco (same company as the dealer optional 510 center consoles) knob........very nice!!

I would think that the general contour of that forward section of the wheel arch would be the same for the 2dr vs the 4dr, but the decision to offer the 2dr vs the 4dr piece is the question. The 4 dr would immediately "roll" into what is the rear door jamb vs the flat sheetmetal of the 2dr sill (rocker panel). From a restoration point of view, is it best to offer the "rolled" lip of the 4dr, and have the 2dr guys just work it flat, OR do you offer a part that is flat for the 2dr, and the 4dr guys simply trim it down & roll the sheetmetal to suit the 4dr jamb?? Here in the States, I think we tend to spend the money on the 2dr cars, but the 4dr cars are close behind the demand. In Japan, they tend to prefer the 4dr over the 2dr...........what is the market like in Australia?? If you offer it as a 4dr, does your 2dr patch panel for the rear section of the sill (rocker panel, just ahead of the rear wheel) butt right up to the dogleg that you are offering? If so, offer the 4dr dogleg, and the 2dr guys would simply trim & weld the two panels together.