yenpit

Couldn't resist, cuz I had some "quiet time" last weekend! .

Mama freakin' mia, that color combo is killer!! What year is the Rabbit?

I wouldn't worry about maintaining the stock shifter opening, as most L-series 5 speed swaps require relocating it, so lots of cars have already had it done. Depending on how tall you are, you might want the shifter further back anyway!

Man, I started on page 1, did NOT skip ahead, and the tension was unbearable.......until I saw the KA in it! Thanks for saving it, cuz like everyone said, the 68's are getting hard to come by!! I had two 68 2 doors, but recently sold them both :bye: to good homes, as I am moving in November. One is currently getting an SR20DET, and the other will be restored back to vintage race spec (ran SCCA 1974-1987). Save the 68's, people!!!!

Hey, welcome to the forum! I know Greg and his 67 Mini Cooper S, and Adam from the vintage racing scene, and I heard they had this 68 shell available. Nice!!

Like this.............late 60's Chevy Hugger Orange. Deeper & darker than the factory orange.

I bet they didn't even cut out the rear wheel arches, cuz it is sitting so high. Take the box flares off, the wing off, get rid of the blue stripes, hit it with some primer only where needed, different wheels, and slam it in the weeds! I'd drive it! :thumbup:

Wow, that poor car was left for dead! Great to see someone with ambition save it!!

I must not be using the correct term. As the exhaust cast "ports" roll down to the lower flange, they are cast together to form the dual downpipe "ports". At that point, just above the flange, some are "open" to each other, and you can stick your finger in there, and poke thru to the other "tube". Some are "closed" off to each other, so you can't poke your fingert thru. I can describe it another way, but this is a public forum! :w00t: Anyway, I would think that the "closed port" manifolds are more like an aftermarket tubular header.

Mike, do you have any input on the "open chamber" vs the "closed chamber"? Basically it's that open crossover between the two runners, down by the lower flange. I have heard that the "closed chamber" will flow a little better................??

Still a couple more left!!

bump! Still have some left!!

bump!

Seeing that killer drag Bug in the background tells me you'll make this happen! Nice project!!

Wow, ummmmmm............that poor car. :sick:

Stick your head down under the drivers side, and see if the core tubes coming out of the box are right next to each other, or one on left, one on right. If it's the earlier one with the tubes coming out of the box spread apart, I've got quite a few of those (just no spares of the later ones!), and can ship it. I don't think you can swap them, cuz the control cables are different between the early and the late. Let me know!

I think you want the L20B intake, cuz it has larger runners/ports. All you need to do is make a plate to block off the emission stuff that you take off. I think the earlier non-emission manifolds are all small port.......

Alex doesn't have one?? I think your 1972 will be the later one (1971-1973)..........both heater core tubes come out of the case on the left side facing the firewall (not 69-71 with one tube on the left, one tube on the right), and the wire harness plastic plug only has 3 wires + 1 additional "loose" wire off to the side (not 69-71 with 4 wires in the plug). Regardless, you should also rebuild your heater valve! The 510 valve is NLA, so buy a 620 Pickup valve from Nissan, and rebuild your 510 valve using the guts of the new 620 valve. Sorry, I don't have a spare heater core, but hope the info helps!

The felt "run channel" that the glass window rides up & down in, is still available from Nissan. Used is always junk. Comes in a roll, you cut to length. You need to remove the door panel etc etc, diconnect the glass window from the window regulator, so you can push the glass out of the way a l'il, rip out the old felt channel, and install the new. I use black RTV silicon to glue the new channel in place, put it all back together, then leave your window UP for a few days, so the channel stays in place.

Any good local upholstry shop should be able to sell you whatever you need. The problem with using a thicker vinyl, is that it is difficult to work around contours & shapes......it's even kinda hard to wrap around the edge of a panel, and have it glue down properly, because it wants to pull away. A thinner vinyl will be easier to work with, expecially if you are not really experienced doing upholstry. BTW real leather, although much more expensive, is much more forgiving, and will actually "stretch" better around contours & shapes.

Nice 510! You should try to attend a regional VINTAGE race, and would likely meet a few Datsun 510 racers, check out some cool cars. There are actually quite a few out of the Chicago area, but not too many of them on the forums. You might still be able to catch a race this year, before the snow flies...........check the racing schedules online at Autobahn (Joliet IL), Rockford (Rockford IL), Road America (Milwaukee WI). Good luck with the project!

Which seal? Door jamb seal on the door itself, or the door glass felt seal, that the glass slides up & down in?

Oh, stop........ :blush: you can move to Michigan, but I'm movin' to Colorado!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks like a nice solid car! Wow, that lower front valence is nice & straight!!