yenpit

Sorry, no pics, and the car is gone. I'm pulling a pedal box out of a parts car now, so I'll take a few pics and let you know. If you are going to do what I did, and you have the MANUAL pedal box in front of you on the bench, look at the clutch pedal return spring. You will need to remove the "L" bracket where the spring hooks to, and then carefully weld that bracket on to the AUTO pedal box that you left in the car. Where you weld that bracket does NOT need to be precisely located, just close. I decided where to put it, clamped it in place, scribed around it, removed it, cleaned off the black paint around where I scribed it, cleaned off the paint on the bracket, re-clamped it in place, and welded it on 3 sides. It is tight up there, with dash wires everywhere, so be very careful!! Again, that is all you need to modify..........the pedals bolt right in!

Nobody needs a boat anchor!!?? Looks like I'll be stripping 'em bare, saving the valve train parts, and scraping the aluminum!

The black coil below that other monstrosity is the original coil (no longer plugged in), along with the 1x1x3 inch square ballast resistor. Got no idea what that other contraption is.........looks like someone just grabed a coil at the junkyard, and threw it in to get by! Man you've got a perfect dash top, and really nice door panels!

Yup, had it here at the shop when you guys dropped by! The buyer (Jake) is from Detroit, but goes to Western, so you will see the car cruisin' in K'zoo into the Fall semester, before he takes it home to work on it over the winter. I'm kickin' myself pretty hard this weekend for selling it, but now I'm inspired to dig out the painted shell, or the box-flared SCCA car!!

Yup, I sold four L16 shortblocks to a racer here in the midwest a few years ago, so I'm hopin' that's what happens here! I really hate to scrap in the end, but I may be moving in the Fall, and will need to slim down my parts stash!

Yeah Tristin, should be a BW in this car, just like my 1971 4 door with the column shift. skyblue521 great find!! You left coasters are lucky, cuz these cars still pop up for sale, but you just gotta jump in & buy right away before somebody else gets it! Ain't nuthin' out here in the midwest!

Be nice Mike!!! :poke: See other FS thread.............

I've got a bunch of stock L16 "210" cylinder heads. These are the stock USA-spec, open chamber, small valve, small port heads. Sold with valves, WITH cam towers, but NO CAM. Need to thin down my collection of bulky heavy parts! Get one before some of them go to scrap! $30 + shipping EACH OR $50 + shipping EACH checked for warpage & cracks at the machine shop

I've got a couple of L16 engine blocks, with STANDARD BORE. Need to thin down the bulky heavy parts! $50 + shipping EACH before they go to scrap!

On this car, I modified the original AUTO pedal box. The ONLY mod is somehow attaching an "L" bracket for the clutch return spring, everything else simply swaps over! I had a complete MANUAL pedal box, but choose not to swap the whole thing, as it is alot of work. I simply drilled out the spot welds on the original MANUAL pedal box "L" bracket, and then carefully welded it onto the AUTO pedal box. The clutch pedal pivot mount is all already there on the AUTO box, so you simply swap those parts over, and then swap the brake pedal too. Keep in mind that the brake pedal pivot bolt is LEFT HAND THREAD, meaning that you loosen & remove it clockwise, the clutch bolt is normal. Hope that helps!

You were watching this build thread! Enjoy dude!!

Well, my mad dash to get this car finished over the last 3 weeks, has been done because I sold it. From day one, I was building this car for me to cruise around in, but had a regional guy that really wanted it, so I let it go. After I got everything done that we agreed on, he picked it up today around 5pm. Sucks :bye: . I hope he enjoys it as much as I have, over the last couple of weeks!

Geez-O-Flip, it's SSS gauge heaven!! I just choked on my homemade tamales (lunch break)!! I'm sure there are LOADS of NOS parts lurking away in places like Thailand. I mean, really, how many cars were sold there??

Carpet is in, Integra seats are bolted down, stock seat belts are back in (along with the pain-in-the-ass stock shoulder belts, but it keeps the cops away!!). Played with the timing a l'il more, running great! It's just the original L16, so who knows how many miles are on it, or how much carbon build up there is etc etc. Finally got the reverse lights working after the AUTO to MANUAL swap. See thread

Welcome to the forum! That looks like a really solid Roadster. Be sure to remove ALL of the "tar paper insulation" on top of the floors, as there is always more rust under there. I just used dry ice for the first time to do that, and it worked great! Go buy a big chunk of dry ice, break it up in pieces, and spread it all over the floor boards. It flash freezes the tar paper, making it brittle, then just tap it with a hammer and/or use a chisel to pry it up, and it just just "pops" right off! The leftover ice will just eventually evaporate, and disappear. WARNING!! DRY ICE IS VERY DANGEROUS IF NOT HANDLED PROPERLY, SO GET YOUR DAD INVOLVED!! It will burn your skin badly if handled without gloves etc etc. Good luck with the project!

One way to possibly save some bucks on tooling for a 4 door rear 1/4 panel, would be to offer a "short" rear section of the 2 door panel. At that point, it would be considered a "patch panel", but the only because the leading edge at the 4 door rear door jamb would be "flat cut"..........no formed lip. That "patch panel" could, of course, also be used on a 2 door, to simply repair rust or crash damage at the rear section. Another really great panel would be the 4 door "dogleg" panels, just ahead of the rear wheels, just below the door jamb. Over the years when in wholesale British parts, I sold hundreds, if not thousands, of "patch panels" for the MGB's & Sprite's/Midget's, once the quality of the panels stepped up back in the 1990's (many of the panels were horrible quality before that!). If you look at this page below (just one supplier of British parts), you can see that they offer full rear 1/4's (#2 factory OEM style), lower half rear 1/4's (#4 which are considered "patch panels") and dog leg panels (#5 also considered "patch panels"). The domestic car market did the same thing over the years..........lots of early production junk, then great companies like Goodmark stepped in, and completely changed the market. http://www.victoriab...ll.aspx?Page=24 I just hope that the company heading this venture up, allmusclecarparts.com, does it right! I like to think that in todays day & age of 3D computer image generation & design, the finished product will be good, if not great, quality. duraldatsun & Ratwagon1600, I commend you guys for pushing for this, as it is looooong overdue!!

You might ALSO consider having the NOS part 3D imaged, and save that image. So much of todays manufacturing is done on these 3D "drawing" programs (I live in Michigan, where there are many auto part manufacturers). Would a rubber part ultimately be made this way? I don't have that answer, but I'll ask around!

Ratwagon1600, you should get that over to those guys in Australia re-popping the sheetmetal (musclecar something or other.......see recent thread here on Ratsun!), and see if they would reproduce it, as this filler neck is VERY hard to find over here in the States, in good shape! The USED ones shrink, and get hard & brittle, so making a reproduction based on a USED part is not a good idea! It is harder and more expensive to reproduce than other rubber parts, as it needs to be made out of a fuel resistant rubber, like neoprene or ???

Laecaon, you rock! Originally, to get the car to start & run, I had 1 BY and 1 B jumped (but again, no rev lights). When I went to the #2 relay (lower & forward of the other relay), and simply hooked up the 2 RB wires to the 2 RB wires on the rev switch at the trans, I got rev lights! HOWEVER, the car would no longer crank over. I then changed the jumper to BY and BY, and it starts & runs! Bottom line, the AUTO to MANUAL swap requires the 2 BY wires in the sub-harness (at the inhibitor switch) to be jumped, and the 2 B wires left blank. Then, for rev lights, bypass the #2 relay, take the 2 RB wires at the relay, and connect directly to the 2 RB wires at the rev switch. I assume at that point, that the relay is no longer used, and can be deleted. datzenmike, I also do NOT see that relay (reverse??) in the AUTO wiring diagram! (additional search words to help others find this thread: backup back up automatic 5 speed)

Exactly, it should have been simple. Maybe I've got another issue with the wiring, but when I got this car, I was amazed that 95++% of the electrical worked, even after sitting 15++ years in a barn! I think the reverse lights were even working (when it was AUTO), but I can't remember for sure. Grrrrr!! Both the AUTO and the MANUAL wiring diagrams show RB for the rev lights, all the way down to the switch, but again, it was 2 B and 2 BY (the sub-harness had NOT been opened up, and I have not found any splices).

I have searched here, and the other forum, to no avail! I have a 1971 510, that I did an AUTO to MANUAL swap. I figured out the jumper wire for the starter bypass, so iruns great, but I can not locate the two RB (red w/ black stripe) wires for the reverse lights / backup lights. There were two more wires in that sub-harness to that plug (to the inhibitor switch assy), but they were B (black) and BY (black w/ yellow), and I'm not getting anything out of them. What am I missing here?? Thanks in advance!

Hey duraldatsun, I talked to my buddy in Chicago, and the two of you should talk about his NOS rear 1/4 panel. I told him that he'd be everybodys hero, if he supplied the panel to copy!!

I love looking at the clock, and it says 5:10.................... :rofl:

Spending some time driving, sorting out whatever needs sorting! I tried to lower the front end some more, but my old school adjustable stock spring perches will rub the inside top of the tires, so that's it for now! I got the green 4 door along with the blue car, but man, that poor thing is completely rotted out! Front frame rails, upper fender rails, strut towers, firewall (ABOVE the upper lip!!!), both front & rear subframes AND where both mount to the body.........ALL completely rotted & falling apart!! It's been a great parts car.............

I was completely surprised, after I bought a set of 1990-1993 Integra seats, that the front mounting holes lined up perfectly on my 1970 510, after only bending the front mounting ears on the Integra slide rails, to lay flat on the subframe rail. The rear mounting will be just about as easy, after again, flattening out the rear mounting ears, and then simply bolting them thru the floor, with some required spacers to level them out. You might have a tough time, finding your 210 seats, but good luck with your search!