heywier427

God I hope that catches on in the usa!

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/2002/04/afghan-girl-revealed/

I love you Mike 🙂

So I have had super slow blinkers for a few years. Dont know why they started going slow. Nothing has changed wiring wise since I built it. Today I replaced what I assumed was the stock relay, with an led relay, as my tails are led (fronts are incandescent). With the car not running, but key on, both blinkers flash at an acceptable rate. Still a bit slow for my taste, but way better than the 2 sec. delay before! With the car running, the drivers side blinker works as it should, the passenger side just stays on, but dim. No flashing, just solid. Change back to old relay, everything works as before. Slow. Any thoughts? Should I try putting leds in my front flashers? Maybe also try a standard/not led relay. I checked the bulb grounds and they are all fine. Gotta search for the stalk ground next. Hmmm...

20180809_191723[1] by thomas telesco, on Flickr

Itb's or turbo. Those are your only options 🙂

Nice! So all I did was right click on your photobucket image, copy image address, and paste directly to post. Oic!

The idea is to drive it so fast it gets quiet 🙂 That almost valve floating sound! It started!! Without much hiccup either. And thats something for a rotary that hasnt started in over a year! Giggity!

Ill do it for you for 7k 🙂 Ill even supply everything! For the crossmember, I would go jb coachworks and covert to r&p. trans brace, like mike said is available, but stock sr and z32 ones work as well with drop spacers. If your not doing any of the work yourself, its not gonna be cheap. 4k is a realistic low budget figure after all said and done doing it yourself.

This is correct, but laymens/shadetree/internet peoples, it is 0/0. 0/0 is easiest and most normally measured vertically. It is the wag left and right of the trans snout that you get your +/- degrees off. If your engine is fully rubber mount isolated, this becomes less important to be "not" perfectly 0/0. I did end up dropping my diff down 1 full inch. Will snap some pickaroo's tonight. Thanks.

The engine configuration is fine like that. A very good/common swap for the 510. If fabrication is not your thing, all parts can be bought, and its pretty much plug and play. Try to push for more info on the engine. Is it rebuilt? Are the bottom end bearings fresh? Why was it taken apart? Most sr's spin bearings, so if thats the case the crank should be new, as well as the spun rod. Usually #3.

Holy F, what if the guy wanted it back!!! How could you not want that! Incredible score man! That guy had good clean taste for 30 yrs ago! What did you do with the old carbs? Can I have them 🙂

This is on a 510 with irs. The diff is fixed, and cannot move. I miscalculated. I do not need to move the diff. Hurray for no more fab work! Boo for poor math skills 🙂 Will be up and running tomorrow. Maybe...

Thanks guys. This is what I am correcting. My engine "was" as +4 and my diff was as -1. Thats a huge no-no. Now I will be +1 on the engine/transmission side, and -1 on the diff end. This is within the ideal range (0-0 being perfect).