yenpit

I've got a 1983 Maxima 4dr Sedan ROLLING CHASSIS for sale. Car is a Colorado car, is actually relatively clean, with 229k miles on it, MANUAL (not auto) car with factory steel sliding sunroof, no apparent crash damage, looks like original paint, but we simply did not dig very deep! I listed it on Denver CL this AM, pics are there, have a few more......sorry, I do NOT host & post pics like Ratsun requires! If no interest in complete car, I will part it out, but likely not until AFTER the holidays! TJ Denver CO

I've got a 1983 Maxima 4dr SEDAN complete roller (no engine, trans or rear diff) in north Denver if interested. Put on Denver CL this morning for $450. Doors are very clean & maybe the B pillars are the same if you need.....?? I can also part out & ship, but can't do anything like that until after the New Year (too busy over holidays). FYI the 68-73 Datsun 510 4dr & Wagon rear door lower SHELLS are the same, they simply have a different UPPER glass frame that can be cut out & swapped..............there are enough 510's around to find 4dr OR Wagon complete doors, so I've never seen anybody actually do that, but I was curious & looked into it a while back! For an 810/Maxima of this era, rear Wagon doors might be harder to find. Let me know if interested! TJ Denver CO

This is cool! 😎 If you are contemplating a MANUAL swap, I have a 1983 Maxima with MANUAL pedals still in it. Trying to sell whole car now, but will part it out if no buyers. The pedals MIGHT be the same......I don't know. I will pull the pedal set out if the car has to go to scrap 😞. Swapping auto to manual in a Z car or 510 is a very straight forward swap, mostly bolt in...........I would guess this is similar?? TJ Denver CO

Send me a couple good pics of the thermo housing THAT YOU NEED............I'm pretty sure I will have a good clean USED one. If you have a 3 bolt thermo LID (earlier are 2 bolt), then it should be only one choice................but a couple good pics would be great. Post here or PM me! TJ Denver CO

We are in need of a silly little vacuum solenoid for the HVAC system on a 1981 280ZXT. Bottom line, it is located on top of one of the black plastic vacuum canisters on the 81-83 280ZX, mounted on the passenger side inner front fender, in front of the strut tower, right next to the engine compartment lamp. I have pics, but I do NOT host & post like Ratsun requires! PM me if you think you have one, I can EMAIL or TEXT the pics! TJ Ignite Performance Denver CO

If you are going to sandblast your OE hardware to retain the OE hex head sizes etc, you must use a less aggressive GLASSBEAD media.......not aluminum oxide or any of the aggressive media's! Glassbead leaves a much smoother surface, so the silver OR yellow zinc plating will be shiny like it's supposed to be. If you use a more aggressive media, the finish WILL be dull! If the hardware is heavily oxidized or pitted from rust, you really can't get past that...............it will look kinda crappy once re-plated. Every 510 or Z that I strip for parts, I toss EVERY good OE nut bolt washer bracket etc in a box & then send out most of it for yellow zinc re-plating........but I do keep some USED "raw" dirty hardware for Ratsun projects that don't need nice clean re-plated hardware! Most hardware stores do NOT offer the Japanese standard hex head sizes.............they are typically one mm bigger ie OE 10mm would be 11mm, OE 12mm would be 13mm etc etc. We race 240Z's, and sometimes we need every second in the paddock to repair something. We re-plate OE hardware to retain the OE hex head sizes, so we don't have to GUESS what size wrench/socket we need. Sure, there are components that require Grade 8 etc, or sometimes we will use SAE hardware on the aftermarket RACE parts, but we can usually identify those quick enough! We have a specialty hardware supplier here in Denver called AAA Metric.........they DO offer most of the OE Japanese standard hex dead sizes, but expensive! You can still buy SOME of the OE hardware from Nissan, but much of it has recently gone to SILVER ZINC instead of the mostly OE yellow zinc. Riley at Lynchburg Nissan in VA 800-443-2117 has alot of the OE hardware available, but you need to order by size, NOT application. Good luck! TJ

Yup part #FW204 is the aftermarket glass.........works fine!

Nice find...............hope the paintwork is good! PS you will need to pull the back glass out to install a new headliner.........install headliner BEFORE installing the front & rear glass! If you don't already have, but a NEW rear glass seal! 😎

Nice! Pics!!

Just WOW!! 😎

I have two 69 column covers but both have a piece broken out, same spot........would one help with the project? TJ Denver CO

If you wanted to keep the AC & use it, the most important component is the under dash unit. FROM that unit out into the engine compartment is basically universal fit AC components, including a condenser. If you have a basic understanding of the system, you just need to buy what parts would work for you. We did exactly that on a 240Z.....kept the underdash unit, had hoses made from unit out to a universal fit receiver drier & compressor, used a NEW late model Sanden compressor (way more efficient than original HUGE York unit!!), a 280X aluminum block mounting bracket (lower drivers side of engine), fab'd up a simple spacer to mount compressor to bracket, & a modified 280X belt tensioner. We had the original condenser, so just used that, but you can measure & buy a universal fit. Blows c-c-c-cold! If you don't want to use the AC, carefully pull out the underdash unit & sell it! You can give the buyer all the other stuff, but again, most needs to be replaced with universal fit parts anyway!

If the sending unit is old, the "rivet" electrical connection that goes THRU the unit loosens up over time & leaks. You can clean the crap out of it, seal it with something unaffected by fuel & try to carefully "pinch" the "rivet" tighter again. Unfortunately the tank units are NLA NLS, and good USED ones are getting harder to find!

😎😎 Wow, great video clip!! 😎😎

..........don't forget that the 280ZX (NOT 280Z!!) struts DECREASE the track width (can't remember how much, maybe 1/2 inch per side??), thus the FRONT wheel offset/backspacing can be different. Like datzenmike said, decide on what strut assemblies etc you want to use, THEN buy the wheels to fit! Also, some aftermarket 13 inch wheels will clear the larger ZX calipers, but I've never seen a chart or listing! Here in the USA, 13 inch tire choices are terribly limited, so most are going to 14 inch (still limited tire choice) or 15 inch (lots of tire choices!).

Never heard of either............and what a GREAT way to introduce yourself!! 👍 A 620 could have an L16, an L18 or an L20B 4cyl engine......OR some other swap! The L16 L18 should have the same 2 bolt lower alternator mount, unless somebody modified it. The L20B has a 3 bolt lower mount & is different then the L16 L18......it too could have been modified. We are all here to help each other, but if you can't play nice, well......... 😟

I can't PM you.............says "not receiving messages"! Let's talk via EMAIL..........yenpit@hotmail.com. Email me a list so I can print it! We have snow this week, so can try to get there this weekend! BrothersGarage.........I will take a look! TJ Denver CO

Nice! Do you know Steve Bonk in Chicago? Might be a good local resource for you, as he is neck deep in vintage racing 510's & Z's! Let me know if you need his contact info. Check the port size on the intake vs the cyl head........there are two dual Hitachi SU manifolds K14 & 220, one is small port, other is big port. U60 head should be big port. TJ

Welcome to Ratsun! We had LOTS of Cactus Green 2dr & 4dr SEDANS (we never got the Coupe, but lots imported here) & Wagons here in the states, don't think I've ever seen a CG 2dr Coupe! There is a permanently posted (pinned) thread at the top of the General Discussion on how to post pics here on the forum.......you need to host them on a website & then post them here!

Yup this truck was SOLID, still in the yard last weekend, but pretty well stripped down now!! There was a guy on here or on FB pages looking for 521 clutch & brake pedals..........this truck has them if anybody remembers who it was. I was gonna pull them, but didn't, still can if needed.......... TJ

I usually get $100 + shipping for a later 1971-1978 240Z-280Z bellhousing (2pc trans case, you want the front half), but just sold my last one yesterday! FYI the earlier 70-71 240Z has a 3pc trans case, so that bellhousing is NOT what you want! I'm pretty sure I'm selling the 71-78 Z car bellhousings to guys doing the same thing..........using a NAPZ or an S13 240SX 5speed. The 71-78 Z car bellhousing will BOLT ON to the NAPZ 5speed, then will bolt up to your L20B.....it is that easy. There is machine shop work required on the 71-78 Z car bellhousing ONLY if you choose to use the later S13 240SX 5speed. FYI if you need a clutch, buy the SAME APPLICATION CLUTCH that you already have, otherwise you would need to acquire other parts if you buy a different application clutch. There are threads on how to identify the various clutches. If you have a 77-79 620 & it has a 5speed, then it LIKELY uses the 77-79 620 L20B clutch.........so start there...........measure the disc diameter & if it matches what the catalogs say for the 77-79 620, then that should be what you have. Hope that helps!

Contact Troy Ermish...........although he is 90% 510 race stuff, he has dealt with a few 610's. Doesn't he service Adam Carolla's cars........I think Adam has had a couple of 610 race cars cuz so rare to see! I grew up into British cars. In the mid 80's, working at a British shop back in MD, got a typical call from a tow company asking if we wanted to buy a junk car. Driver simply said ".....got an old MG race car, don't know nuthin' about it!" I followed protocol, asked my boss, he declined, so I told the guy to bring it by the shop, ask for TJ, I paid him $100! Turned out to be an early production 1964 MG Midget SCCA race car! Boss got back from errands, mad as hell that I bought it! I tracked down the name painted on the door, super nice guy, he had special ordered it from Manhattan Jaguar MG Triummph in 1964, was RIGHT HAND DRIVE, drove it home, stripped it down & built the race car, never street driven! He invited me over to grab all of the NEW parts that he removed in 1964, gave them to me! I sat on it for 6mo's, had two other Midgets at the time, an acquaintance wanted to buy it, so I sold it & made my money! THAT is one car I would love to track back down............. Good luck with your search! TJ Denver CO

Any progress on this project? TJ Denver CO