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Tedman

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About Tedman

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/10/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Harbor City, CA
  • Cars
    '72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)
  • Interests
    Surfing
  • Occupation
    Aerospace Engineer (retired)

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  1. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    In other news, my Coco mats were delivered earlier this week. I ordered them from Cocomats.com. They weren't sure on sizing, so they sent me a paper template for the PL510 that they had on file. I test fit the template, marked a few changes and sent it back to them. The mats fit perfectly and look great! I chose black/gray to complement the seats. They are rubber backed and have nubs to grip the carpet and stay in place. They should do a nice job protecting the carpet.
  2. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    Revised MPH vs. RPM for the 3.90 diff. Now 70 mph in 5th will be around 2950 RPM.
  3. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    After putting some miles on Zeke, the driveline seems to be noisier than I expected, even after accounting for the urethane bushings in the rear crossmember, diff mount and semi-trailing arms. The bulk of the noise seems to be coming from the diff, which doesn't surprise me given the amount of A/X and track day miles it has seen. So I decided to try swapping in the stock 3.9 open diff that came with Zeke. With no idea regarding its condition, I pulled it out from under my work bench and checked it out. Aside from LOTS of grime, a cursory inspection seemed to indicate that it might be in good shape, with no excessive backlash or bearing grinding, etc. First order of business was to clean it up. Like I said, there was a lot of crud caked on. Degreased, with cover studs removed: Yup, it's a stock 3.9:1. No scary surprises inside. No chips in the ring or pinion gears. Bearings appear to be intact. At this point I decided to go ahead and replace the seals and rear cover gasket before installing in Zeke. I already have a new pinion seal, so I needed to order a cover gasket and two side seals. Since these parts are NLA from Nissan, I hit up my local Subaru dealer. They had one seal in stock (p/n 806732200) so I ordered the second one, then I found out that the cover gasket (p/n 38353-AA010) is NLA! Fortunately there's a few online Subie parts vendors with residual stock, so I ordered one plus a few spares. So much for getting this thing installed this weekend! Should have the parts by mid-week. While waiting for parts, I painted the diff: If this diff turns out to be good, I plan to run it while having the 4.38 rebuilt. Should make the run to Monterey and back more enjoyable, and should get better mileage. I also have a stock 19t speedo pinion gear to swap in so hopefully the speedo/odo will be close to normal. I need to check my spreadsheet...
  4. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    Thought I'd add the MPH vs RPM chart I created in Excel. These are the transmission gears ratios I used for my transmission: 3.062, 1.858, 1.308, 1.000, 0.745
  5. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    See ya there, five1oh. Should be fun! Logged another 60mi on Zeke this morning. Stopped for gas and was able to calculate gas mileage for the first time. 157mi on 7.63 gals for 20.6 MPG. Not bad for dual 44s, but not great. I was expecting a little better based on past experience (pre-ethanol days), but then again I did increase main jet size to account for the ethanol in todays fuel. Also, I'm sure MPG will go up as the motor continues to break in. From GPS speed on my phone and an RPM vs. speed spreadsheet I created for my setup, I'm pretty sure my factory tach has been reading low by about 10%. So this afternoon I swapped in a known good factory tach that I used in my SR car in its pre-SR days. I haven't taken it for a test drive yet, but hopefully the replacement tach will be more accurate. I know there's a calibration potentiometer on the back of the tach, but calibrating by trial and error sounds like a PITA, so if need be I'm considering having a speedo shop calibrate the tach. Also, earlier this week I pulled my speedo cable from the sheath, greased it up real well, re-installed it, and added some extra grease at the trans end to try and block the gear oil from leaking past the rubber seal and migrating up the sheath. On my test run today it seemed to work as my speedo needle was indicating a steady speed and not bouncing like it has in the past. I'm kind of a nerd for gauges...
  6. Tedman

    Datsun 510 2 door sedan "SHAKOTN"

    Comp intake manifold won't have a port for your vacuum booster. What don't you l like about your manifold?
  7. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    Put the half shaft R&R on the back burner for now. Decided I should really change the diff oil since it was still the old oil from when I pulled the diff from my SR car back in 2001. That car got an R180 Quaife and this R160 went on the shelf until Zeke came along. I put the car up on jack stands and used a bubble level on the door sill to verify that it was pretty much level fore/aft to avoid over/underfilling. The old Redline oil still looked pretty good, if several shades darker than fresh oil, so it was probably a good idea to change it. I used this funnel with the tube run down through the large port in the spare tire well to fill the diff. The carboard box just holds the funnel in the trunk at about the right height to keep the hose from kinking so the oil keeps flowing downwards into the diff. I have always used GM LSD friction modifier p/n 1052358 to eliminate limited slip clutch chatter, but it's apparently been superceded by AC Delco p/n 8890030. One half bottle (~2 oz) always seemed to do the trick, so in it went. Planning to put some more miles on Zeke this weekend. Only 125 miles to go to complete the 500 mile break-in on the engine. With the 500 mile service complete, Zeke should be good to go for the road trip to Monterey for the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion later this month...
  8. Tedman

    Datsun 510 2 door sedan "SHAKOTN"

    Congrats on 1st drive, 1st run out of gas, 1st burnout, 1st car meet, 1st drive to work, and all that other 1st stuff! Car looks wicked cool out in the wild! Did you put a front bar on it yet? HG sealed up? Fuel spilling from carbs on shut down seems odd. Too high fuel pressure, maybe? Again, lookin' good and best of luck getting it dialed in!
  9. 906 is Safari Brown. This is from the list of touch up paints in the 510 parts manual here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/bluebird-1968-1973/miscellaneous/miscellaneous
  10. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    Ahh, I see. Ok, thanks for the pics. Jeezus, that's a serious vice. It could smush mine to paste...
  11. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    There's a few repair jobs that most 510ers despise with a passion. Replacing rear wheel bearings on a sedan is probably right up there near the top, as is replacing an oil pan gasket without removing the engine, replacing a rear main seal without removing the engine, or anything requiring removing/replacing the front cover without removing the engine, or removing the engine to perform any of the previously aforementioned operations. Another sorry task that comes to mind is replacing half-shaft u-joints. Like rear wheel bearings, most of us have probably chosen more than once to replace the entire half-shaft or semi-trailing arm with a known good one from a donor car, rather than R&R the u-joints or bearings. And that was a good strategy when parts cars were plentiful in the wrecking yards. But not so much, anymore. Rebuilding what we have, if possible, has become more of the norm. Fortunately, most of the parts are still available. For example, I recently purchased a set of rear wheel bearings, seals and lock nuts for when the time comes for that nasty job (hopefully not in my lifetime!). And since I have three spare half-shafts, but only one is good, I thought I might broaden my 510 repair resume by attempting to rebuild the two bad half-shafts, something I have never attempted before. First, the parts. I procured some SKF u-joints from NAPA. Then, I checked to see if the axle boots and clamps were still available from Nissan , and I'll be a monkey's uncle... Not sure why I stuck the axle nuts in this pic at lower right, but there you go. So, with parts in hand, I endeavored to disassemble the half-shafts. Much easier said than done. In fact, I have made near zero progress to date. I was able to remove the c-clips from the bad end of this half-shaft, but my 3 lb sledge and socket have been no match for the u-joint, despite liberal use of PB Blaster. Most certainly this half-shaft has never been disassembled since it left the assembly line in Japan. You can see the mark where I had the yoke clamped in my bench vise. Wailing on the socket placed over the bearing cap I was able to push it in maybe 0.010" and gave up. I even tried to press it out with my vice, but it got to the point where I'm pretty sure my vice was going to let go first. I might try some heat from a propane torch, but honestly, I'm tempted to throw in the towel and take them to a shop to be pressed out. To be continued...
  12. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    I guess it was premature to pronounce Leaky Zeke leak free. Earlier this week, during my post trip inspection I found evidence of a coolant leak from the radiator. Crap! It's a pretty minor leak. No drips, just a little of the tell tale "powdered sugar" on a small area of the lower tank seam. I'm surprised I even noticed it. Probably could have been "fixed" with some stop leak, but who knows how long that would have lasted? Instead I decided to see if the radiator shop could repair it, so yesterday I yanked out the rad. Red circle shows where the leak is, and next pic is a closeup of the leaky area. This is a stock automatic 510 rad converted from 2-row to 3-row core, and has been otherwise performing flawlessly. Sometimes things go your way. I was really expecting the radiator shop to tell me the tank is shot, or some other dire scenario making a repair economically infeasible. I was already pretty much resigned to shelling out the $300 for a new aluminum Koyorad, but the shop tech tested it right away. Turned out to be a straightforward resolder repair, I was out the door within an hour for $65. Sweet! This is the same shop that repaired Zeke's heater core and cleaned the fuel tank, and they continue to impress me with their service. Big shout out to Mac's Radiators in Bellflower, CA! Here's the repaired area: After lunch I reinstalled the rad, refilled with coolant and purged the air from the system. Could that be the last of Zeke's leaks? Here's hoping...
  13. Tedman

    "Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr

    Sebastian snapped this pic of Zeke on I-15 headed north after the San Diego Datsun Enthusiasts meet last Sunday. Thanks for the cool pic, Seabass!
  14. Tedman

    Datsun 510 2 door sedan "SHAKOTN"

    I installed it as-is. I did it that way on another motor as well and have had no issues. It's a mystery to me why the Nismo gasket does not have that cutout. There's got to be a good reason...
  15. Tedman

    Datsun 510 2 door sedan "SHAKOTN"

    Coming along nicely! That interior will be sick once the upholstery is done! I used the -A7651 88.5mm HG on my L20B (86mm bore), sealed up no problem. Is the top of your timing cover flush with the block deck within spec? Just thinking of things that could cause such a blatant HG leak. Here's hoping third time's the charm...
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