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Tedman last won the day on April 7 2019

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About Tedman

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  • Birthday 05/10/1961

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  • Location
    Harbor City, CA
  • Cars
    '72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)
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  • Occupation
    Aerospace Engineer (retired)

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  1. Funny, I was down there a few days later and saw another 510 NB on PCH while changing out of my wetsuit in the Bolsa Chica State Beach lot.
  2. Yesterday (9/30/2020) I spotted this clean '69 2dr 510 NB on Bolsa Chica Rd at Edinger in Huntington Beach CA.
  3. https://www.automobiledrivingmuseum.org/event/jdm-at-the-adm-2020/
  4. I you've ever done any overnight trips in your 510, or just needed to find something in your trunk at night, you know how dark it is in there without using one hand to hold a flashlight or your phone. My other 510 came to me in 1984 with a trunk lamp actuated by a mercury tilt switch installed by the original owner. Since none of my previous 510s had a trunk lamp, I quickly learned to appreciate this feature. And I checked- mercury tilt switches are no longer available, probably due to EPA restrictions. So, I used what I had on hand- a lamp assembly from the S15 wiring loom left over from the SR20DE conversion in my other 510, and an old school car alarm pin switch. Here's the pin switch mounted in a sheetmetal bracket I made which attaches to two of the three trunk latch screws. A length of plastic corrugated tubing protects the constant hot power wire. I also installed a 4A fuse on this wire for good measure. I mounted another simple bracket to the left bolt for the fuel vapor separator. There's not a lot of places to attach a lamp bracket in the trunk without drilling holes! It actually does a pretty good job of illumination even though the trunk is somewhat shadowed on the right side. Works for me! Gratuitous roadside pic:
  5. You know your project car is pretty much done when you start posting about installing trivial stuff like a glove box or trunk light! But my other 510 has these mods and I missed having them on Zeke, so here we go. Amongst the boxes of parts that came with Zeke, I found this combo pin switch/lamp. It may have come from a 240Z or some other Datsun. After testing and cleaning some of the rust off, I started making a simple bracket to fit in the upper left corner of the glovebox. Below you can see it installed. My '72 glovebox already had two small unused screws in the upper left corner, so I removed and used those to attach the L-bracket to the top of the glovebox where there's already a slot for wires to pass through. I believe a factory glovebox lamp assy mounted here on some non-USA deluxe 510s which would explain the existing screws, wire slot, and rectangular recess in the plastic. Since my switch assembly only had one wire (for power- grounding though the body of pin switch and mounting bracket completes the circuit), I had to add a ground wire from one of my bracket attachment screws to the metal dash frame. No more fishing around for stuff in the glovebox at night!
  6. Last time I took Zeke out for a spin I noticed a rattling noise under the hood upon engine cold startup and warmup. Went to get gas and after filling up, there was a new whirring noise coming from under the hood. Further investigation revealed that both noises were coming from the vicinity of the alternator. Reaching down and tugging on the alternator I found it to be slightly loose. Hmmm. With the car back in the garage, I removed the alternator and found the problem. My trick alternator mount tricked me! Here's my mount, one that I had pulled off some long forgotten L-series equipped Nissan in the JY many moons ago and modified by drilling out the bolt threads to fit a single long M10 bolt. The idea was that the long bolt was less likely to shear than the pair of short bolts normally used. What I had failed to take into account is that the rear most alternator ear (left in pic) was not being clamped and therefore relied on a close fit to the bolt shank to keep from vibrating. Without a steel insert in the ear, the engine vibration eventually pounded the aluminum through hole slightly oblong, which caused the rattle I was hearing. The whirring sound was the fan belt due to slight misalignment of the alternator from the oblong ear hole. Fortunately, I had on hand the more common later L-series alternator mount which accepts the larger clamping bolts (M10 vs. the stock L16 one which I think are M8?), and installing that mount (like the one pictured below) solved both problems!
  7. Unfortunately, I do not. I got this one from a wrecked 2nd gen (S110) Datsun 200SX a long time ago, and then I bought a new boot from the Nissan dealer. Those cars are rarely found in the junkyards anymore, so it will be tough to find one unless you can find someone parting one out. It wouldn't be too hard to make your own from sheet metal and cut the hole to fit a shift boot that's readily available. Good luck!
  8. Had to try out my Watanabes on Zeke. 15x7 +21 offset with 205/50s. This is the set I normally run on my SR car and I've been meaning to try them on Zeke forever, but first I had to modify the rear sway bar because it interferes with the inner tires. Now the wheels fit great! Here's Zeke in my driveway, ready to head out for a 510 day run up to Angeles Crest. The neighbor's yard makes a nice backdrop. Pit stop off Big Tujunga Canyon. It was a beautiful day in the San Gabriel mountains. Here's the problem I had with the sway bar interference. The kick out in the bar that goes around the spring perch touches the tire on both sides: Nothing a little heat and muscle can't fix! First I used the chain and turnbuckle to pull the arms in where I wanted them and then made a hoaky jig to test fit while bending: Heating the corner bend with a MAP torch so I could bend it: Here's the torch kit I used. I bought an extra canister, but didn't need it. This is the TS4000 High Heat torch. There's also a TS8000 which is supposed to be an even higher heat torch with a regulator knob. It probably would have saved some heating time, but I decided against spending the extra money for the TS8000. Besides, time is something I've got plenty of right now... It started glowing red hot after about 15-20 minutes with the torch. Heating the outside of the bend seemed to focus the heat best. First I would heat the inside for about 10 mins, then bring it to what you see here by heating the outside of the bend. Cherry red and ready to bend!: By turning the bar end-on and placing it against the floor and leaning on the other end with all of my weight I was ultimately able to bend each arm inward by about 3/4". I could only get about 1/8"-1/4" per bend attempt before having to reheat. Hey, I'm a skinny guy. Fortunately, once hot, the reheats only took a few minutes. When finished bending, I let it air cool over night. The next day, after touching up the with some flat black Rustoleum, a test fit showed plenty of clearance to the wheel/tire on each side. Mission accomplished! I did have to juggle endlink spacers at the heim joints to get the endlinks back to vertical. You can see in the photos below that they were now canted inward at the bottom. I put 120 miles on the car today and it works great!
  9. I drilled a hole in the valence in line with the bolt, and used an impact with an extension through the hole to zip it off. The hole in the valence is hidden behind the bumper so no one will see it. Edit- Just remembered this was to remove the crank pulley on my SR, but the L-series pulley is probably in close to the same spot.
  10. That doesn't look like an L-series manifold. Looks like Toyota Corolla 2TC 3TC. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/fs-2tc-3tc-mikuni-side-draught-manifold-100-shipping.368424/
  11. There's the 205/60-13 Vredestein Sprint: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Vredestein&tireModel=Sprint+Classic&partnum=06VR3SC&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
  12. 710 lower control arms are 3/8" longer than 510 arms, but otherwise the same. So with the offset upper insulators Mike posted above, plus 710 LCAs, you get a decent gain in negative camber with a stealth stock look.
  13. Haven't posted much about Zeke lately, so thought I'd give a brief update. Zeke has racked up nearly 6000 trouble free miles since "completion", including a road trip from SoCal to Monterey for the 2018 Historics, the Targa California rally in 2019 and the SoCal TT rallies in 2018 and 2019. Fuel mileage has ranged from a low of 17 to a high of 23 mpg, with an average of 20 mpg. Not bad for a cammed L20b with dual Mikuni 44s! The speedo just rolled over 10,000 miles recently: Such a fun car to drive! Not as quick as my SR 510, but still plenty quick, and that dual Mikuni growl is always music to my ears! Here's a brief in-car vid clip of Zeke in action: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZPJ2BgmVWBKEXnPRgpJB67Y564lBoobY Enjoy the ride!
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