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About Scrapson

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday June 9

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Scio OR
  • Cars
    1979 Datsun 620
  • Interests
    Fat drifts and Rally the piss out of gravel parking lots also fixing the shitbox
  • Occupation
    Clevenger Automotive/Gas Station

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  1. I feel like a dick but I probably could’ve wrote that better. I do feel like a failure and that’s not anybody’s fault I should’ve listened. This next project is going to be big and all me I’ll post pictures when it’s done.
  2. So, I did love the L20B but not anymore for all I care it can die. I really did appreciate all the advice but I’m 16 and stubbornish I’ll listen just I have to make a mistake then I’ll listen. I’m going to make it fast I’m just not touching the motor with a ten foot pole besides putting it in with some help from someone who’s done a similar swap into a Chevy luv. What looks like had happened is that I was putting too much of a load just hammering on it was the first mistake I found bearing pieces after removing the oil pan but when I started it the other day before removing the motor it fired
  3. Yeah pretty much I love my L20B but like I don’t wanna spend the amount that they want on a rebuild kit at some point if I don’t end up selling it I’ll rebuild it and then go kart it with the 4 speed. Yeah I know wtf why, well I didn’t think it was as much as it was but like when that perfect launch happened it was over I stayed in it. fastest 0-60 on flat ground though so that was cool I guess. I keep getting told to just shove a KA in it or sell the pickup neither are good options.
  4. I dunno what happened I was just like why not what’s the worst that could happen.the worst happended I blew up about 3 miles down the road and got flat towed down some sketchy back roads to my friends house who I had just raced. I still won though so... anyways it’s time for more power and an extra gear.
  5. Update, It makes a knock knock noise and I said who’s there it said shiny oil soup. All that matters is that I won the race against a hardbody Nissan it felt so good to win a race. Remember to replace rod bearings if your doing a head gasket.
  6. It runs and drives minty has power it idles it does the right boom thingy I mean she’s perfect no leak today so either the leak fixed itself or I just didn’t see it. It has oil. Remember kids always check the sprockets for proper amounts of torque if it is not spinning the cam when you tighten it down it’s not tight enough keep going when it moves the cam it’s tight. Check the hole in the sprocket to see if the dowel is in. Compression since then is unknown but is high enough for it to run.
  7. I know that from my thermostat debacle. Anyways it is sucking just barely enough air where it idles with the choke on so I’m onto the right track with the EGR thing besides that it’s got no threads. It is leaking oil like a siv when I turn it off and it’s extremely slow while running though.
  8. The vacuum leaks were from the EGR plate to the manifold from my carb over hanging just a hair to touch it so I filed down the EGR plate. It idles now but it still got a slight vacuum leak I gotta find and I think it’s from the broken stud that tightens the bottom of the EGR the threads got pulled out from over torquing is my guess. I haven’t tried timing with a light before and done it successfully but I’ll figure out from my teacher hopefully today. I found the oil leak it’s from the oil pan gasket so yay me for having to replace that probably this weekend.
  9. Okay so what affects the distributor timing I pulled up to work 2 days in a row oil leak and all it’s been pretty good I get a few that’s a cool pickup I’ve missed those comments.
  10. I’m bringing a timing light to school to get some help from a teacher on it since I can skip the first half of the day anyways. It has good power I found the vacuum leak so we’re doing pretty good right now. I was judging the timing off of what it was as before but I don’t think it should’ve changed much since I never pulled the distributor or anything else. Only the cylinder head and manifolds
  11. It still won’t idle but the timing is adjusted just by hand no timing light to 8-9 degrees because that’s where it liked it I tried 11 and 12 all it did was backfire and bog at 12 I think I figured out the idle thing though so we’re on the right track I’m going to test it for vacuum leaks through the intake manifold and brake booster.
  12. We got it idling but it’s still rough. The fuel mixture screw is out 2 turns so it would idle it smells rich but I’ll take it back in a 1/4 turn. I don’t remember what the idle screw is at but I think it’s a turn and a half It sounds like a vacuum leak and I’ve had this problem before I still don’t know what causes it to happen. It has power when I’m driving it and it revvs fine but it take a while to idle down and I think it was the throttle linkage I broke last night.i thought idle on them was 800-850? That’s what it likes the most.
  13. So your saying to advance it 2°? I mean I guess that makes sense because if it is too retarded it will not ignite at the right time and then you’ll have either preignition or too late of ignition which can leak to the combustion cycle burning away at the head and gasket and block. Uh huh.
  14. I haven’t reset the timing on the distributor yet I think I’m going to set it back 2° so it’s at 8° but not till I get the carb fixed so I can see if that’s why it won’t idle right because it has plenty of get up and go but not enough to idle around. I set the timing like 2 months ago now and it was fine it was timed to 10° With the vacuum advance disconnected.
  15. i noticed when I was leaving work today my linkage broke so I idled all the way home which was a mile from home but still sucks. I have a slight miss still but when I get the idle figured out I’ll pull a wire off at a time and see if it stays the same or worsens.
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