yenpit

...........and so it begins 😒 Thank you all for regularly posting your findings here. Again, I typically watch TBN, Daystar etc for my UN-BAISED, NON MAIN STREAM NEWS (go on, bust my chops!! 😝), I read Mike Huckabee's email newsletter daily, just started seeing Newsmax reports & I admittedly have been watching Fox News the last few days, because of all this shit hitting the fan. I flat out will NOT watch ANY of the other news channels, as most are leftist & FAKE NEWS. Most of you guys have been on top of this shit, along with other friends that I trust. Well done!! 😎

The USA spec LHD glovebox does NOT use nuts & bolts to install..........simply self tapping screws with a small flat washer. There are qty 2 on either side of the "box" (door open), I think qty 2 along the bottom edge & qty 2 on the end cap. All of them screw into a white (now yellowed) plastic "insert" that pops into a hole in the dash frame. I just pulled one out of a dash assembly last night! Hope that helps! 😁

The early 1970 harness is first 6mo's production only. Would not plug into a later 70-72. The later 1970-1972 are basically the same. The 1973 is also a 1 year only harness. I bet you had an automatic harness..........car will not start unless you jumper wire where the auto neutral safety switch was (a small sub harness from where the wiper motor is located, down to the trans). Did you replace the dash harness as well? All harness sections had a white plastic tag with a part #. Unfortunately 99% of the engine compartment harness tags fell off, cuz they were on the harness below the radiator, so out in the weather! The dash harness tag is usually intact, cuz inside the car. That said, you can check the dash harness part # online to see what year & model.

Was in British parts for 30++ years. If wayno says MG Midget or MGB, then you want a Lucas 25D distributor, used from around 1959-1974. Differences are in the vac advance units & the centrifical advance curves. There are two styles of distributor caps, but they interchange. If you want something set up for you, contact Jeff at Advanced Distributors. He started out doing British & he got into Datsun stuff, so he should know exactly what you want/need! He can set up as points or electronic. Tell him TJ sent ya!! 😎

Yup! As long as they "snap" into the holes, those are correct! I have seen lots of cars with a glob "body caulk" around those plastic clips..............not sure why?? Use a good quality stainless phillips head self tapping/sheetmetal screw with a tapered head.........hole in plastic vents are tapered holes............so the screw "seats" nicely.

PS don't throw anything away!!

I'm glad to see more pics of this...............lots of the "hard to find parts" are still there.........dash harness, fuse box, heater box, headliner bows etc etc! If you rebuild the L16, you will likely want to run a different cylinder head to get more power out of it. The stock L16 "210" head has small valves & small ports......there are big valve, big port heads that bolt right on! I will have a better cylinder head if you want! I also have an L16 engine with a big valve, big port head on it, was SAID TO BE REBUILT, but we never ran it. Might be a better starting point.............?? That stock cast iron exhaust manifold will flow BETTER than the cheap "shorty header" being sold these days & the cheap shorty header is NOT the best quality! If you want a proper tubular header, I think Troy Ermish of Ermish Racing in CA is the only guy making a proper long tube header...........not cheap, but excellent quality! Problem there is, if you buy his header for the L16, that header will not fit the L20B in the 510 chassis, if you later decide to go with that. The L20B has a ~~3/4 inch taller block deck (increased stroke.......that's where they got the BIG BLOCK 2.0L capacity!! 😆 ), so it lifts the header up 3/4 inch, thus it WILL NOT clear the floor pan. You could always build a "channel" in the floor pan later for clearance, if you go with the L20B, or buy the proper Ermish L20B header if you go L20B! Ahh, choices! 😁 I might have a good USED long tube header......?? Personally, if you stick with the L16, I would use the stock exhaust manifold & downpipe, then run a 2-1/4 max diameter exhaust system with whatever style rear muffler & tip you like! Check out kfvintagejdm.com for excellent quality rust & damage repair panels! We have used his 510 & his 240Z panels............MUCH better fit & quality than any other panels out there! I have some crappy AlfaParts/Wolf Steel panels for the 510 if you need them......cheap, cuz I will NOT use them! 😣 Come up one of these days, get a tour of our vintage race shop (I think we have 10 Z cars here now!) & buy some parts for the 510! TJ

Did a little road trip up into the foothills Wednesday, forgot to fill up down here in Denver, same gas station chain as down here, had ONLY premium up there.......no lower grade/lower cost. That was an expensive fill up, cuz yes, prices are up here in CO too! 🙄

Good to see it found a home! 😎 FYI the story is it was purchased in the early 80's by a guy in between The Springs & Denver, drove around, got beat up & was parked on the family property out in an old orchard! The body is actually not too rusty, although it is beat up! Looks like Ron literally did "all the dirty work", as it was full, up to the bottom of the dash & in the trunk with squirrel nests...........it was NASTY!! But as pointed out..........it is a blank slate, ready for a new lease on life! Yes, I have rear glass.............and lots more parts. We have already made contact via text! TJ Arvada CO

Gotta get BACK to Ireland again!! Both sides of our family hailed from Ireland, some from Co Mayo & some from mid country (can't remember the counties there), immigrating to the USA & Canada in the 1860's. Last visit, we got WONDERFULLY lost up between Connemara & Galway, ended up in a tiny Gaelic speaking town! A quick google of naval jelly also showed the terms rust dissolver & rust remover........maybe try that description over there!? 😁

Do you actually need the caliper pistons? You will likely not find a "quick" part to replace.......likely need to find a brake shop to take them to, for rebuilding OR try Apple Hydraulics to ship them to for rebuilding. Looks like the seal kit is still available, so that's a good start! Apple Hydraulics might also be able to help with rebuilding the brake booster...........?? You might be in trouble with a caty conv! At the very least, you will need to have something custom made using a California CARB approved universal caty conv. Exhaust is easily custom made by a good muffler shop..............just no CHEAP way around any of that! If you do get that done, a 2in exhaust system would be just fine.............2-1/4in maximum. You will NOT gain any power with a bigger exhaust system..............don't waste your money trying!

We build vintage race 240Z's out of wrecked, rusty old cars................what better thing to do with one like that! That said, if wrecked, we ALWAYS send the stripped down rolling chassis (they typically need it as a roller to put it on the frame machine) to our body shop & they take care of pulling the frame rails back into spec. You need to find a body shop with a frame machine that is WILLING to screw around with an old Datsun.................that might be your biggest hurdle. The next hurdle is stomaching the cost of having it done properly. We have sold 3-4 complete front clips to guys looking to repair a wrecked Z (we do NOT have anything to sell at this time). It is possible that your car was already pulled back to spec, cuz the visual buckles might not pop back into place, but it could be within spec......?? Unfortunately, it's really not likely, as so many of these cheap Datsun's (well, back in the day!) were NOT repaired properly, cuz they did not have the value. Good luck with the project! Check out kfvintagejdm.com for repop frame rail pieces/parts. Problem is, yours is a 1973, which is when Datsun changed up the frame rails & rad core support, to keep up with Federal mandates on crash protection. Your frame rails & rad core support are slightly different than the 1970-1972, I would be GUESSING that they are the same/similar to the 1974 260Z (??), but the later 1975-1978 280Z rails & rad core support are quite different. As you are buying & repairing, pay attention to the details, as there WILL be many different on your 1973!

Str8jacket, let me ask you something.................although what happens politically here in the USA can ill affect any & all countries worldwide, based on this news report, you guys are JUST as concerned about HOW this all happened. Australia & many other countries have also been horribly affected by this virus. Are we (me..........Republican leaning, but never liked Trump, & completely blown away by what the Dem's are currently doing!)......are we as nutz as the Democrats make us out to be, for considering and/or believing theories like this? Are the Dem's truly THAT demonic & full of hatred, as some of us believe? Every once in a while, I take a breath, a step back & ask myself am I crazy to believe this stuff? Am I the one who is nutz? Every time thus far, I have come back to this reality, to standing my ground on what I believe, but we are getting berated from EVERY direction for even considering this! I recently had four Dem friends turn on me...........and I don't even preach my beliefs! Very few news reports like this are actually out there, easily accessible...........censorship is rampant.........at least that is what I believe. One of these friends stated "..........I was a journalism major.........the press, the news, the media.......it's NOT all lies! I deal in measurable facts. Science. There is no possible way that all of the accusations floating around is real........." 😣 I just don't get how blind some people are right now............🤔

I see you are in Milwaukee..........do you go to Road America in July & September? We race 240Z's at both events.............well, hopefully this year! 😎

Look up under the front fender with the wheels OFF, you will see the upper fender rail. About 12-14 inches from the front, you will see an indentation in the upper fender rail. That indentation is there for clearance for that rectangular base that came with the mirrors. You will methodically measure & drill!! Suggestion is to drill at that indentation, UP thru the fender from underneath, so you know where you are drilling! Hope that makes sense! 😉 😁

Gotta agree with Mike...........that later generation 510 simply doesn't command that kind of money, however it IS a great car & it IS in excellent condition! Problem is, finding necessary trim parts & some "hard parts" like your struts on the 710 will be hard to find. This later generation just never gained the following like the 68-73 510's 🤔 Now we know what to get Mike for his birthday! 😁

So this is another similar situation.............the auto flex plate for your 1976 710 with the L20B engine is NOT listed (again, a bit of an oddball Datsun, so kinda "forgotten"), but it is the same flex plate as a 1978 280Z. Go to rockauto.com, look up "NISSAN (they do not list Datsun!) 1978 280Z, transmission-automatic, flex plate". It is the same part! https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,transmission-automatic,flexplate,8608

Toyota MR2! So this is what we mean about thinking outside the box to use a part off another car, if your part is not available! I have used the MR2 strut inserts (shocks), but was few years ago....maybe someone else can tell you exactly what YEAR Toyota MR2.........or try googling something like "datsun mr2 stuts" etc.

I have a 1980 2WD parts truck. I have the brake booster & the NON power steering box. Both still in a pretty clean 77k mile truck that was wrecked, so pretty good chance they are good parts! PM if interested! You will want to figure out a seat or seats regionally, cuz would need to ship via truck freight otherwise 😆. A KC has more room for the seat(s) to go back further, so you should be able to fit just about any mini truck bench (narrower than mid size) & just about any pair of buckets! We us lots of Honda Acura buckets in 510's. You will likely need to fabricate how something mounts, unless it is a factory seat for the truck.

Surprising that ZcarDepot lists it as fitting "all 5speeds"............no mention of the early difference. To recap, the early 1977-1978 280Z/1979-1980 280ZX 5speed has a phenolic 5th synchro, not brass. This discontinued NLA NLS phenolic synchro can be flipped around to utilize the other side that was never used.....unless somebody already did that! The complete rebuild kit from Cobra Transmissions, comes with 5 brass synchro's, you simply don't use the 5th one in the early trans.