Braden

get some sheetmetal, a hammer, a cut off wheel and a vise and go to town bro, you cant go wrong with a good ole homemade cable bracket!!!

even though its a brake pressure switch it looks to me the same threads as the oil pressure switch as an l20b which has the same threads as many older chevy switches, take it to your local parts house tell you need one of "these" dont tell them what its for, they will find you one!

i have a single points dizzy with 3000 miles on it, great shape, whatcha got to trade

disassembled both turbos, both exhaust housings are cracked, one exhaust turbine is missing, both shafts are screwed, and both center sections are screwed, so basically i can cut one of the turbos up and use it as a water impelller to generate electricity for a green project but other that that these bitches are scrap!

whats the deal with the box? im guessing the carb is in the box and the box is pressureized? i dont want a big gawky box in my engine bay, i was thinking osmehting more along the lines of a cartech style setup but for 2 mikuni44's instead of 3. also with the box style setup it seems they had alot of fuel pressure problems and that sounds like a headache!! somebody school me on wastegates and bov's please. i understand how the wastegate works inside the turbo and how you use it to controll booost psig but what i dont understand it what controlls the acutator.

so i acquired 2 free turbos yesterday and one of them is salvageable and the rebuild kit os about 60 bucks. i was thinking of running some type of blow through turbo setup on my 620 since i have a fresh rebuild and i wanna do more to it. I can fabricate my own manifolds thats no problem but my question to you gusy is what all is needed to succesfully use and manage boost on your l20b. from what i can tell i need the turbo itself, intake mani, exhaust mani, some type of oil feed system, and some type of wastegate system. also i was curious as to how you run a vacumm line for your brake booster and how to run the oil feed lines. would my oil pump be sufficient to feed the turbo? i really dont wanna run an intercooler but what would you guys do?

wrong section bro, somebody please move this. anyways most of those hoses and crap you see can go bye bye. now is a good time for you to learn about emissions, how it works, and why it sucks!!!! if you can eliminate the hoses you can eliminate your chances of vacumm leaks. im not sure how different the 79 is compared to a 77 but here is a picture of my 77 just after i removed all of my emissions garrbage, all you need as far as hoses is a fuel line runnign to your carb, your big vacumm line to your brake booster, and a vacumm line off the base of the carb to you rvacumm advance. everything else can be taken off and capped, dont waste your time trying to plug vacumm lines, try and remove as many of them as you can!!!! then plug the hole where the line came from with a substantial vacumm cap or if its a threaded hole with a pipe plug etc.

if you really want a good deck that will always be a good deck and you can re sell fast then buy an alpine!!!!! nothign but alpine. i have seen soem alpines take a serious beating and still survive.

best thing you can do for the charging system is upgrade to the saturn alt or something comparable, having the extra amperage rules!!!! and no more voltage reg bro!! it takes about 2 hours to fab up the brackets and do the wiring, hell the longest part for me was trying to find the right belt!! as far as your suspension man dont get discouraged, shit happens just make it better next time and youll be good!! lookin nice man keep it up!

good idea mike i will run these plugs a while longer now that i have down jetted, pull them out and inspect them and then go from there. i have read somewhere when checking plugs after engine is warm run it at mid rpms for 30 seconds then turn engine off to simulate normal driving so you can get an accurate reading instead of the engine just idling and possibly causing soot build up.

i have already done this with premium fine strand 8 gauge 99 percent pure copper wire, cleaned all contacts and yes i did sand the back of the module. i have an 8 gauge ground from the engine block straight to the battery bro.

ok guys this has been discussed before, somebody school me on this because i must be missing something, lower compression less than 9:1 can run 87 octane fuel fine without pre-detonation because obviously there is not enough compression force to auto ignite the fule mix. compression ratios above 9:1 need to run higher octane fuel to prevent pre detonation. also it is fact that the lower octane fuel burns faster thus aiding to the pre detonation problems, the higher octane fuels burn slower and produce a more complete burn. now we are talking about this guy building a high comnpression engine and having to run high octane av gas. yes this i understand but how is it possible that the lower the compression ratio (open chamber y60 or u67) is more prone to pre detonation than a higher compression sss or peanut head? that makes no sense its contradictory. its like a diesel they ignite their fuel off of compression, so having a diesel with low comp[ression would be worthless because it wouldnt run!! so if i have this straiught this is what you are saying, if he runs the pistons with the peanut head he is going to have an engine less prone to detoanation problems vs an engine with an open chamber head and lower compression? this cant be right :blink:

well what if he runs these with an open chamber? i dont know how to calculate it but i wouldnt think it would be any worse than a peanet head with flat tops

ha you bought those from the machine shop going out! 200 bones wasnt bad at all bro i almost bought them myself!!! best way to do it is get some modeling clay and imprint them then cc the imprint, it will get you close

mike with thne 150's i was running the plugs were sooty black. i am running the stock heat range in the ngk v power, do you thiunk i could benefeit from a higher priced ngk plug such as platinum? i have had great success with just the plain old ngk plugs. btu with the rich mixture i was thinking that one step hotter plug and one jet downsize should lean it out and get a better burn? tell me what you guys think. ill probably run a new set of plugs since ive had to burn these off twice.

hainz what size mains are you running? mine had 150's and i switched to 145's and i think it act a bit better with the 145's i guess it all depends on your head/cam/displacement combo

well after inpescting the plugs and noticing that number 4 was quite a bit more sooty than the rest i inspected the jet blocks and found number 4 to be about 3 turns loose, i changed the jets from 150 to 145's threw it back together and it ran fine, i am contemplating running a step hotter on the plugs since the mixture was a bit rich on all 4 cylinders. i hope that downsizing on the jets and bumping up the heat range i can get a more complete burn out of all this 93 octane im going through. fun fun fun, thanks for the ideas guys!!

do all the goon ones fit/ arent there a diff between the 68 69 and up?

so ive put about 300 miles on my new engine and 2 days ago it was running great and everything was fine now all of the sudden it runs like shit, something has changed but i cant figure out what it is, i have so far inspected the plugs plug wires dizzy cap rotor, etc also visuallly inspected carbs and matchbox and verified all wires and grounds were tight. now heres the scoop it will start up normal and idle normal but when you go to take off it spits and sputters but it does go as long as you keep it at about 15 percent throttle or less, if you mash on it it will act like the engine is revving up and will make some noise as normal but its real rough like its only hitting on 3 or maybe 3.5 cylinders, its wierd, its b/s, it has the same symptoms of a clogged jet or something but damn i ran all new fuel lines and 2 brand new metal fuel filters and it was running great. my thoughts on the problem make me think its something i cant see such as a clogged jet, or a plug thats fouled but i cant tell it (i did burn them off twice just to make sure), bad plug wire, bad module. thats about all i can think of that would just instantly make it run like shit. i was on my way home and i passed somebody and then it started running like hell, you can give it 100% throttle and it doesnt go anywhere!!! the exhaust also sounds kind of crackly, not like its backfiring but cracklier than normal. anybody have any ideas? im obviously going to probably change the plugs and wires again even though they are brand new. maybe try a different module and try removing the jet blocks and inspecting them (thank god its mikunis), also something that crossed my mind is that damn electric fuel pump i am using, i guess if it was lacking in fuel pressure it could cause a problem like this as well. but hell its all brand new!!! maybe the fuel pump blew out the needle and seat? i just want my power back!!!!!

what about the goon driveline swap? seems more simple durr

my problem is not the solenoid, the solenoid works every single time hell i can hear the gear spinning like there is no tomorrow, i am getting power, plenty of it, i have all new wiring, its just wierd it almost like the flywheel gear is bad but it worked fine before the swap and i inpspected it and it was fine. i am still using my orginal starter that worked great before the swap, the solenoid went out on it and if i jiggled the wire on it it would work fine, but now i swap in a solenoid off of an auto starter and the solenoid kicks in but the gear doesnt want to engage the flywheel everytime, you can turn it over hear the thing spinning hella fast and you can hear it barely hitting the flywheel but not engaging it, try it a few more times and it will eventually engage.

fuck i wish i had a computer to tune all my shit!!!! lucky guy!!!! hell all us carb guys have is a flathead and an ear!