Braden

also anybody on here figure out how to run their vacumm advance with dual 44's???

thanks mike i understand that 100 perfectly, now on to those who have had experience with recurving dizzys and playing with the mechanical advance. what have you done to improve top end power only adjusting distributor timing? reason i ask is because when i first ran my new engine i didnt have the engine timed properly. i had probbaly 20 degrees initial advance, then the mechaical advance, and i had the vacumm advance running straight off the manifold (yeah i know dumb but i didnt have a clue at the time). so at idle the truck purred at about 800-1000 rpm, i decided it was time to adjust the timing so i got my timing light out. because the vacumm advance was hooked up wrong i never could get it timed right. (matchobx dizzy and i thought i had something installed wrong on it). so without using the timing light i turned the dizzy effectively advancing the timing but the engine seemed to run smoother. after driving the truck with the vacumm advance hooked up wrong and initial timing set extremely advanced i drove it, it had great power through the whole rpm range and had more to go past 6k rpm. now that i have unhooked the vacumm advance and timed the engine properly (tried 12 and 15 degrees) i have driven the truck and i have noticed a big difference in throttle response as well as rpms past 5k there is a flat spot where the engine feels like it quits (almost like a rev limiter. its so wierd how when i have the timing light out and i retard the timing down to 12 or 15 degrees the engine idles rougher (im assuming because of the cam) but when i advane the initial timing to 20 degrees or higher the rpms increase and the engine seems to run smoother. i just wish i had my power back because i love how it runs after 5k rpms that cam kicks in and she goes!!!! but now i cant take full advantage of it because of the dead spot after 5k rpms.

so after driving my new engine about 200 miles i have been tuning and playing with the carbs a bit and since i cant run my vacumm advance its been bothering me, i have played with my timing a bit and found 15 degrees to be about where i want it. so what effect on the power curve does not runnign the vacumm advance have? i guess what i am asking is somebody explain to me or show me a chart the effect of advance on the engine at all rpm levels, i would assume that the more advance the better at high rps but there has to be a point where the advance is hurting not benefeiting power output. what is the average best total advance? i know its different for each engine depending on the type of setup your running. i know my question is a little rough around the edges but please try and help me to the best of your ability. if you want to talk super complicated thats fine im sure i can get my head around it if i read it a time or two.

go read the thread again, i wasnt trying to sell shit and make any type of profit, specifically 10 or less sets at cost to select members, no ebay, no online store, nothing, more or less a one time batch.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/93466-40x60-metal-building-cost.html

dont kid yourself, if you have the cash then save a little more and build a garage that will suit your needs and then some. any garage you build you will fill it up and then some, so build one thats big enough you can fill up then clean out if you need more space. my dad built a 30x40 and it was a good size but our next one will be a 40x60 3 bay with a minimum of 12 ft ceilings. dont go hog wild but alteast build a garage you will be happy with in the long run. i cant tell you how many times ive heard people say "yeah when i built this thing i wish i would have added another bay". also when you do the concrete make sure you get a reputable company, there are literally thousands of people out there who pour concrete and havent got a clue how it works or how it hardens or settles later on down the road. do not put fiberglass in it as you will be rolling under your car or truck in it and it is not necessary as long as you have adequate rebar or mesh wire. use chairs to hold the rebar istead of the old pull it up "trick" that so many crews use! also when the crew shows up to pour it make sure they use grade pins and a laser not just a laser otherwise you will have pools of water in your garage floor. make sure the grade pins are no more than 5 ft apart on all sides. i dont know how the moisture is in your area but a real vapor barrier under your floor is a must!!!!!! do not use black plastic from the hardware store!!!!! for best results use a 6mil plastic made just for a vapor barrier and use thier sealing tape to tape the edges, this is the only way to ensure moisture wont come up from underneath.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/23819-datsun-tailgate-letters-decals/page__p__338436__fromsearch__1#entry338436 no different than this shit!!! http://www.datsunminitruckin.com/620-tailgate-datsun-decals_topic49.html rusty had his shit moths before this cocksucker so you guys can shove it, you wanna cry about your brackets when at the same time rustys shit was copied EXACTLY and not me not him nobody said shit because we are aware that this is still a free country and that if there is a market then people will sell shit in it. grow up, and go get a patent!!!

http://www.howstuffworks.com/patent.htm nobody "owns" a patent to a general "brake caliper bracket" and specifically not on one like this, were not in the game to become a fortune 500 company here guys,we are just trying to make a good thing available to us at a reasonable cost without having a tyrant or a monopoly keep us from making our own version. this can be exemplified by almost any and all products such as tennis shoes, cars, hell breakfast cereal even. we WILL NOT COPY ANYONES DESIGN. That i promise but we WILL use their idea and improve upon it to our benefeit, limited to our personal non-financial benefeit and not in a way that will hurt the original inventors profit. there isnt a huge market for these things guys but there is enough market for us to be able to choose who and where we get our product at a price that is at a reasonable level. its simple business and laws of supply and demand.

good luck on the lawyer thing, because even if your design is changed in one simple way such as type of material then theoretically your design wont be copied, if you read down in the thread you will see where it says NO ONES DESIGN WILL BE COPIED AND WE WILL NOT TRY TO HURT ANY OF YOUR PROFIT. or "livelyhood" as you call it, and since its your livelyhood then basically you just told everybody how much you ripped them off if your making that much money off of them. quit your crying and get over it. if you designed the calipers, hoses, pads and rotors then maybe you would have something, like i said dont worry i'm not gonna ruin your livelyhood, i wouldnt want you to starve now would i?

actually your right i was planning on making them out of nasa approved gold plated nickel carbide carbon fiber resin and then i was gonna ebay them and try and make about 50 bucks maybe a few million or even billion, hell i was even gonna make my own tv commercial, god damnt you guys busted me !!!!!! :lol:

looking for a set of the beebani disc brake brackets for the front of a 77 620, i would prefer the design that utilizes all 4 bolts on the spindle

im pretty sure there is already some of these on ebay!!!!!!!!

so did you sell out? since they are all gone how about pm me some blueprints if you dont mind. ive got a machinist that would be ahppy to make me a set of these

i just went out and looked at mine, looks like the end of the hinge is peened in to preven the pin from coming out, simply remove the metal that is peened and knock the pins out, maybe a little pb blaster??

i have wondered this myself, hopefully someone will chime in and get me started on mine

the right to keep bear naked ladies!!!!!

if your dizzy is reman from auto parts store your fucked!!!!!!! a1 cardone sucks balls bro, throw it in the gutter and go buy another!!!! would hurt to check timing and or timing chain marks either!!!

to hell with the government, im 19 and sometimes i carry a concealed .45. hell i bought it when i was 17. im nto scared and the 2nd amendment is the reason why im not scared by god im an american by blood and i have the right to keep and bear whetever the hell kind of arms i want. im in an organization called the ky corps of longriflemen and by ky state law i am "militia" and since i am militia then i shall be well regualted. DOWN WITH OBAMA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no bro, take off the valve cover and undo the 10mm allend head bolts, unbolt the cam sprocket, block timing chain with wood or tool and pull that sucker off!!! thats it!! well besides everything thats attached like the water housing (just uno the top hose) and all oft he other common sense stuff like plug wires

hey hainz what about manual vs auto tranny starters???? i have one of each and the auto starter is much bigger, looks like a better starter

this is total bullshit!!!! we should find that cop and castrate his ass!!!!! they should be out bustin meth labs but instead pulling over dattos

it should work fine, use whatever vacumm ports you need and block the rest with plugs or something substantial.

any of you guys from or aroun d aberdeen washington, it is where my 620 came from back in the day, it came from cottons auto sales, anybody knwo anything about this place?

true dat, how about just some new red ones!!!!!!!