Braden

hainz, ive got a timing question, i installed the matchbox just as you did in your video (with the module away from the exhaust)and after i got the truck running and i drove it, i went to adjust the timing. after using my timing light the truck showed to be somewhere between 20-25 degrees before tdc. i was like holy shit and i was going to adjust it down to 12-15 degrees. long story short i loosened up the dizzy so i could turn it to adjust it and while turning the distributor it started moving closer to the 12-15 mark. shortly after that i ran out of adjustment. i also noticed the truck seemed to run alot smoother with it at 20-25 degrees and as i turned it down to 12-15 it ran rougher. i thought this was very odd so i adjusted it back up to where it ran smoother and took it for a drive. it drove fine with zero spit and sputter but damn i just couldnt get over how high it said it was. do you think this could have something to do with that fat cam?? i know adjusting the timing on up is supposed to be good for these cammed engines but i didnt think this much was good. i read somehwere that with a combo of initial, mechanical, and vacumm advance you should have no more than 35 degrees period. it just seems odd to me but then again i am new to this much cam on one of these engines. P.S. it runs like a scalded dog, i couldnt resist hammering down on it a little bit although i didnt go past 5k rpm (holy fuck this thing has like 10 mile son it!!!!!!) :rolleyes: :rolleyes: its like an on off switch, in first gear about 2500 rpm the power comes on strong on up through 3rd. i am a bit disappointed in the 5th gear i have now, it doesnt drop the revolutions a whoel lot on the highway as much as i expected it but i guess im just used to my chevy, but other than that the 5th gear is good!!! carbs are awesome!!!! didnt do shit to them other than throw em on and set all the mix the same (i still have alot of tuning to do on them though) ive got some jets i am gonna try out as well. im running 145's now but have 140's and 150's to try. and i must say i love the saturn alternator!!!!!! i absolutely love being able to turn on my lights and radio and have zero effect on my idle!!! i used to have to adjust my idle just for nighttime!!!

i hvanet had a chance to tear it apart but im assuming thats what it is because if you hold the lower shaft you can spin the rotor alot in either direction. yes it is easy it only took me about an hour and absolutley zero timing adjustemnts (just what i set the dizzy to before i installed it) and it was idling great!!

you guys said we will never know, your wrong, when some of you get to hell you will see him there, no offense but seriously. :(

holy fuck one of his legs is gone well atleast it looks like it.

so it ended up being a combo of incorrect wiring and a faulty distributor. there is something not quite right about one of these dizzys ive got, somehow the mechanical advance is super loose??? maybe a spring off in there? ill tear into it and check it out! but yeah it was the mechanical advance advancing 100% immediately on startup and the coil wires were swapped, ive had alot of late night evenings on this thing and i probably just misplaced the wires. oh well, its up and going, now ive just gotta re-mount my electric fan on the front side of my radiator. cant wait to get this thing on the road these mikunis are so bad ass!!! the throttle response is extremely fast and the isky cam sounds awesome, hopefully when its on the higway it will be just as good.

got it running, damn heck, junk ass dizzy i got, swapped it out with a different one just the way hainz did on his dvd and she fired up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! sonofabitch its been in the garage too long!!!!!!anyways ill explain more in detail a little later after dinner, it was some wierd shit!!

almost there

blah

thanks mike i have fire now, i found that pic earlier and now im on to timing, shit is pissing me off

so i am trying to get fire to my new engine, i elminated the ballast resistor, wired up the dizzy, blaster 2 coil, i cannot get fire out of this thing, i have tried 3 different modules, 2 different dizzys, verified ground several times and no spark. after some testing here is my diagnostics, i am getting 12volts to both the b and c terminals on the module, the b wire i have running to the positive side of the coil and the c wire i have running to the negative side of the coil. the coil was wried accordingly- from the stock harness i spliced black/blue with the black/white and ran them to the negative side of the coil, i ran the solid blue to the positive side of the coil, maybe i should remove the black/blue wire from the circuit???? i shouldnt be getting 12 volts to both the b and c terminals on the module should i? please help guys i can post pics if need be, thanks

if your club wont let you have 2.0 fuck em!!!! or just jump on up to a lz22!!!!!! long live the L20B!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

how often do you guys think a brake booster goes bad? i mean only if the diaphram busts right? i just bought a reman one and havent had a chance to try it out, when installing my new engine i removed my old booster and when i turned it over a bunch of black brake fluid poured out of the vacumm hose i figured ah while im at it and just went a bought another one, my brakes did not work super good with the old booster even after i replaced the shoes, rebuilt the cylinders, and flushed and bled everything. i hope this new booster helps, i have done alot to make the truck go faster but not much in the stopping department. :lol:

sure, ill take everything, please have it here after lunch :P

mike when you said the The Black/Blue comes from the dizzy and goes to the negative side of the coil you confuse me, on my points dizzy the only wire going to it was a small ground wire, did you mean black/blue come from wiring harness and to negative side of coil?

so in the picture it is wired up correctly, hmmmmm damn i was hpoing it was wrong so i could bloame it for my old engine running a tad rough, i guess ill blame it on a worn hitachi and worn points dizzy

did you strip it in the block or just the waterneck bolts, if its the waterneck bolts (which it should be because you have no reason to remove the whole housing)get new housing from ratsun member (probably free or dirt cheap) attach housing and drive the hell out of it, dude these trucks are old, rare, and cheap as fuck to drive and insure, if your young and poor you need a gas saving datsun bro, fix it drive it!!!!!!!!!!!!

uploading picture now

so im working on my 1977 620 and i have been studying the wiring diagram trying to figure out which wires i need to splice to get rid of the ballast resistor so i can run my blaster 2 with my matchbox dizzy. here is where things get cloudy. im sitting here looking at the coil, one would expect that on startup positive current would flow through the resistor and to the coil but the way it is wired up the negative side of the coil is wired to the output of the ballast resistor(black and white through resistor to white and black and out to coil). the blue wire (or the wire going from harness to positive on the coil) is wired straight to the postive on the coil. is it just me or was this coil wired backwards while it was on the truck????? wtf maybe its just because ive been under this damn thing all day putting in the clutch and tranny. if the coil is wired up properly then theoretically i should splice the black/white to the black/blue and splice those both to the white/black wire and run them to the negative post on the coil, and the blue wire will stay where it is running straight to the positive side of the coil. i hope this all makes sense and i hope one of you who is not as tired as me can fill me in

you had better break out the wallet!! try wolf creek racing for the carbs, manifold will need to be sourced elsewhere.

i did some research mike and yes a zero got left off, the 4 speed vent cap is part number 38322-20500 and the 5 speed is 38322-78000. i found them both here http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.php?n=TechSection.PartsCommonNumbers

hey mike the last digits of the tranny breather should have 5 characters, the parts guy at the dealer said he found a breather for the first model of 720 that had the same number just with one more zero added, could you check on this???

would you be willign to ship small parts that will fit into an envelope? i can pay you for your troubles btu i need some small stuff!@!!!!!

thats what i was thinking mike, i noticed that the pressure plate fingers were infact different but i dont have the old clutch to compare to anymore. i will run the one that came with the kit, i didnt feel like trying to swap on the new one for fear of destroying it, i just removed the old bearing and i bugered it up a bit. thank you for your help, now any of you that would like to discuss different types of throwout bearings or post pictures or measurements feel free to do so!