Braden

so the unit of measure is millimeters i am assuming. ill take pics of both of mine today and measurements

so i got a clutch for my new engine, its the only clutch sachs lists for the 620 truck and t is the 225mm, my question is how tall is the correct throwout bearing for the pickups, the one i took out of the truck is maybe 1/4 inch taller than the new one, the clutch has been replaced before and im not sure that the right throwout bearing was used so i guess the old one could be the wrong one, i did notice the clutch engaged almost instantly when i had the old engine in so maybe the new on i have is the correct one, if somebody could measure one and let me know what its supposed to be i can compare it with mine. not that it matters but i am going to be using a 5 speed from either a late 620 or z car

you can modify yours and combine it with a smaller one, most aftermarket are for chevys and they all use a threaded rod that bolts into the center of the carb, unlike the datsun which clamps, im sure somebody on here has found a direct bolt on replacement and can chime in

here ya go ya scumbag picture whores!!! bombcan!!!!

like i said where exactly did you find those things for 75 bucks

elaborate with some sources, thanks.

ive got flywheel bolts, i went and got some new ones grade 8 at the industrial supply, not something that i would really want to re-use as i have seen some of the oem bolts stretch the get stress cracks and bust off after a few tightenings

so could you not get a round headlight that you rcan insert the bulb in that will fit the stock headlight housings, whala hid and no cutting, where did you find these kits at???????

L20 OR FAIL!!!!!!!! sss!!!!

thanks nicoya, swapped on a new advance and the steel sleeve off my points dizzy and whala, new distributor (almost)

good price if it is in good shape, lets see a pic so we can drool, i already have one but hey i can still drool over another one! :D

hey guys i need one of the little threaded studs that will thread into a mikuni linkage arm and will clip into the cable, the thread size is m6, let me know whatcha got or where i could get one

you guys do realize that mr gasket makes 1/4 inch aluminum spacers for cheap as hell, i think i paid 32 bucks for 4 of them

well i dont have the heat spacers on it so it will be about 1/2 inch longer, i just set them on there to see what they look like

welly well well looky at what the ups guy dropped off today!!! talk about big carbs,

just wanted to say thanks to both of you, hainz and mike on helping me out with this, i feel alot better about it, after all 3 heads are better than one!

dont worry hainz i set that chain tensioner to 0 like it says in the book, im happy with it, hell the carbs will work great and im sure a combo of the 3 modules and 2 dizzys ive got will work!! ill be sure and post a vid when i get it together

hey guys i recently had the same problem, i bought a water pump with clutch and started to take it apart, the shaft went from the impeller all the way through the clutch, i tried and tried and tried pulling it using several types of pullers and the aluminum clutch kept breaking, i said fuck it got out the die grinder and cut the hell out of it, now my water pump is clutch free!!!!! it was a little barbaric but hey it worked, i would have had to cut the shaft down anyways so i figured it would be just as easy to cut up the clutch, although i had a pile of shavings and a pile of chunks of clutch left when i was done!

i went with the number 3, i guess we will see how it works pretty soon.

ok i verified that the engine is at tdc compression, i put the chain on and the closest i could get to aligning the v notch is barely to the left or retarted (on the number 3 hole). here is what i am going to go with, just someone please verify that it will be ok to run the cam on the number 3 sprocket hole???? i know 2 would be ok but im not to sure about the 3 hole

so shouldnt i be able to put the crank pulley on right now and verigy it is at tdc? the more i think about it being at tdc the more i want to check it.

since i have the head on how will i check to make certian it is still at tdc? i put it at tdc and havent messed with it and when i look through the plug hole it looks as if it as at the very top. i would rather check to make sure, like you said it is wierd, the head still measures good and they did deck the block but probably 5 thousandths or less, it could be a combo of strethced chain and decked block. but like you said it doesnt matter how many links as long as the v notch is lined up and as long as the engine is at tdc.

i guess iull thow this sucker back together