Braden

its easy dude, you need to locate a non smog set of manifolds. i did the delete on my 77 620 non cali model. pcv valve is located where the pcv hose comes out of the block and routes into the intake. whe you say egr what you really mean is egr as a whole, there are many different components that make it up. you need to remove the air pump, charcoal canister, and basically everything that is attached to the manifold side of the block, once you have all of that off the only thing you put back on the block is your non smog manifolds, and your carb, hook up the large vacumm line to your brake booster and your vacumm advance line and your done!!! here is a picture of what mine looked like back when i had my old engine and i did the egr delete. and here is what it looked like before. good luck and if you have any more questions feel free to ask

20 plus shipping for the horns and all lenses? or all lenses and housings? you said rest of the rest? im not sure i understand, do you mean the taillights with all the side markers too?

you have pm

can you afford to have a nice 2004 silverado on trade???

mike you knwo as well as i do that one of those little particles will tear a hole in a fram filters pleats!!! it would be like a bird into a jet engine.

shit i didnt realize you were working on an a15!!! anybody know if you can use l20 stem seals instead????? fel pro number ss27149???

hmm, something just doesnt seem kosher, something is the wrong size, i havent ever had this much trouble, even with putting the valve springs back on it shouldnt take more than about 2 hours. the first time i did it i used a shitty valve spring compressor and still didnt have as much trouble. i hope you get it figured out, im sure its something simple. but on a serious note, if you have the head off of the engine (or even if you dont) you should really really really clean it up alot more, even if you used a couple of cans of brake clean and an air compressor, i see alot of tiny particles on there and can you imagine what that is going to do to your main and rod bearings? heck some of them look big enough to score the cylinder walls. good luck man

hey how much for the landcruiser? or atleast some more pics

its super easy to remove and rebuild the clucth master and slave, probably total of about 1.5 hours worth of work, even if you havent ever done it. just make sure verything is super cleand and the rubber plunger cups are in good shape and not damaged

you would be better off buying a new set, the fel pro set comes with the plastic sleeves, you really really really need to clean up your head, what type of head is that????? my head had two different seats for the valve springs. a higher one for the inner and a lower for the outer.the flat washers had to be installed before the seal. you need to put the valves in befor you put the seal on so the valve stem will helpo guide the seal down!!!!! where are the steel washers ????

you fucked up bro!!! dude if you have tried to put these valve stem seals on without using the instalment sleeve then you have probably scored a cut in the rubber and have started their premature failure. to install the stem seals you must intsall the valve into the head then you must put the two small washers on the head that keep the bottom of the valve spring from wearing the aluminum, then you slip the plastic sleeve over the valve stem. after the installing sleve is on you must lube up the area where you will be installing the seal, slide the seal down the stem using only your fingers, a small amount of force may be required to push the seal down so that the locking band can squeeze the seal tight. presto your done!!!! it sounds to me like your stuff is really dirty or not lubed up enough! to remove old valve stem seals simply pull them off with some needle nose pliers. its super simple man. are the pics above your pics?

msd 6a box will nto boost performance enough for him to tell a difference, after 2500 rpm there is no multiple discharge anyways

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Occupational-OSHA-Environmental-1417/galvanized-steel-fumes.htm

hell wait a minute these are the same exact symptoms i get when i dont have a beer for a few days! holy shit man does this mean beer is possibly made of zinc oxide!!

Typical “metal fume fever” begins about 4 hours after exposure, and full recovery occurs within 48 hours. The symptoms include fever, chills, thirst, headache and nausea. All of these symptoms, pain and suffering, as well as lost work (and play) time, can be avoided entirely by simply not inhaling the zinc oxide fumes. ok maybe not death but i sure wouldnt want any of the above :blink:

be careful dude, emt is galvanized, and galvanized vapors=death bro!!! wear a proper respirator, and i know you will come back with something like yeah it was well ventilated where i was but dude that shit is cumulative

so instead of the lenses the whole housing with bulb and all? thnats fine if thats the way you wanna send it, it would give me something to restore. let me know man iand i will get you out a pay pal

mine is dentless and corrosionless, its been inside for the last 30 something years or more. it snto been on a car since atleast 1975. and no i wasnt going to sell it for some god awful amount fellas, just making a comment to the guy who has one for what like 3,000 bucks?

damn i was gonna sell mine for like 50 bucks but not now!!!!!!!!!

well i was hoping for some wild project you had completeted, now im bummed

umm put in an l20b cam, i haveone ill sell you for 20 bucks plus shipping if you really want it, im sure someone localhas one though

looks kool, damn man you have enough hose to feed a submarine down at the titanic!!! any vids???

i still need a quote if ya dont mind, my zip is 42503, thanks alot man :D

quote me a price and shipping costs for the horns (with hardware) also the front marker lenses (the ones on the valance, the tail light lenses, and both headliner clips that the sun visors clip into. thanks alot man!!!