Kirden

Might be a slight change in plans for now. I have the chance to purchase an A14 that runs very well for $150. This would give me the opportunity to do a fresh rebuild on the A15 prior to boost and I can do some mild head work. It should also give me a reliable ride that could take me to Canby instead of buying a plane ticket. Only problem is, buying the engine is the easy part. Finding time to install it will be the real issue. I'd hate to buy it and have it sitting for months like the zx trans for my 620... Looks like I have some thinking/planning to do.

That bus coming through Georgia? Sure would beat a plane ticket :P

The black looks good from the pics. I couldn't do the plastic covered lines though. With a bay that clean, it'd have to be redone :P

Looking sweet man. I just noticed your hard lines though. Are they wrapped?

Unless it's a datsun bike I dun wanna hear it... Oh, and it's frame has to sit 5mm off the ground with rust holes in the gas tank :P

He lives! But still stoopid bikes :poke:

At first I was like "what's the pen for?" ... Now I feel stupid. Great job :thumbup:

I won't be powdering my block, but the rest is probably fair game... Ok, if I can find a shop around here I may do the block :rofl: I'm second guessing the alternator. If I do it I pretty much have to do the starter, fuel pump (unless I go electric), A/C compressor... My OCD doesn't kick in until one thing is neat and pretty. Then everything has to be neat and pretty

So borgmike, can I get some of that black magic love blah blah I hack you now stuff? :rofl:

Ok, I'm gonna turn into Adam on my B210 I think. Decided to go powder fot the wheels but I find myself looking at the prismatic powders site a lot thinking "how much of my engine can I powder coat?" So lets hash it out. Where do you guys think enough is enough? Valve cover and timing cover? All the brackets and metal bits? The WHOLE FREAKIN THING!?!? Feel free to post up any powdery engine bays so I can get some ideas as to how far I actually want to go. As for right now, I'm thinking these bits: And a custom or powder coated rocker cover.

Twas easy, tranys4liFe

I called dibs! lol

When you've been around to watch everyone turn Datzenmike into a spam bot... When you log in every day cause you secretly want to hijack Mr.Big's thread again to slow down his progress :fu:

Dmike is a robot!!!!

As he put it, for high performance you will be at full throttle, such as in a race car. Running without the vacuum advance for street is viable and won't harm anything, but won't make the most power. However, why modify my manifold for a vacuum log when I will not be running the stock distributor once the engine is boosted? I will be going with a crank trigger since I have no idea how to remap the stock distributor and the cost is similar once you figure in the price of the vacuum log modification and remapping. Another neat thing with the R1s is there is an area that you can drill and tap on the carbs themselves to get proper distibutor vacuum if you want it. The tap goes right before the butterfly on the carb and is perfect for off idle vacuum sourcing. Now on to a very serious topic that needs attention ASAP. I'm looking for input on colors on the wheels. Originally I had planned to go with Montana Gold: But I'm just not fully sold. After seeing the brown/black wheels on Rollover_Red's 510, I think I want to do more color: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21828-so-i-rolled-it-her-now-build-thread/page-13 If this car is ever repainted it will be repainted the stock Green Mint (601), so give me some neat ideas for wheel color guys. I had even contemplated hot pink so get creative. I have until this coming Thursday to decide because the 5th wheel should be here and the centers will be shipped to jrock.

Spoke too soon :P http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/4305740826.html

It was a phrase I just had to see, then I busted out laughing in the front office at work... As these guys said, check timing. Also, check the fuel filter.

It's amazing what you find on google:

Tanker fails hard then...

I'm late on this, but you can get reconditioned rods from BP connecting rods. $40 each. My set came in last month: Got them off fleabay.

For autocross I would still suggest the KA over the SR. The CA is left out not because it's a bad engine, but the power band is lower than both of the other choices and therefore would require more to compete. The reasons are the same as I stated above. Torque is your friend for autocross and you want torque across a wide rpm band. KA-T will get you into the 300-400hp range, but honestly you won't hit that on the track. You want torque and the ability to get that torque to the ground effectively without breaking anything between. A huge factor to consider is how often will you be competing? If you compete a lot, chances are you will wear/break more parts. Depending on the part that breaks, the SR will most likely have your truck down for longer periods of time due to sourcing and shipping. Also remember, SRs are for rich kids. Most 240sxs in the US want or has a SR. Not to mention there is al ready a competing and well documented 620 with a SR. Not trying to be a prick, just want to share all the options and issues that I see. SRs are very expensive when done correctly and would hate to see this 620 torn to pieces because the price and headache win out.

Stephen Bogg just got my intake manifold flange back from the machinist. He is building the intake to suit R1 carb holders. He is also adding threaded bosses on the outer tubes so that the carbs can be solidly fixed to the manifold for boost. Lastly, he will add a vacuum port for the brake booster. For those that wanted a vacuum log to sort out the vacuum advance, Steve will add this to your manifold for a small cost. Less than an aftermarket log and very high quality. However, Steve says he suggest not going with a vacuum advance. For high performance he suggests remapping the distributor, for street, use mechanical advance alone. For my build we both agreed that I would be best served going to a crank trigger ignition once the time comes for boost, and that mechanical would be fine for NA.

I would throw both of those out and go with either a KA or VG personally if I were to do a swap. IMO the purpose of having a truck is the torque and potential hauling power. My truck is slammed and isn't hauling anything, but it doesn't make sense imo to go to a smaller displacement engine that is more difficult to source parts for, cost more, and unless you're rich, will make similar power as a KA with the rest of the swap cost put into bolt ons. To each their own though. The engine I am building should put down a good bit of power. According to other people who have built similar engines, with a proper cam and tuning this build can achieve 200hp NA. I plan on running a supercharger and am only shooting at the 160whp mark because at 2.2L I should have plenty of torque and HP is an overrated number. Again, this is all my personal opinion. SRs look good and make for pretty magazine pics, but I'd take off the line torque over high end HP any day.