Eomund

I've been goin' hard on rebuilding the front suspension and steering. I've replaced most of the bushings and replaced the entire tie rod assembly. I've also replaced the struts, will be replacing the wheel bearings and lots more in the near future. Just a few questions. First is on the steering knuckled. They're just a touch loose and give a bit of vertical wobble. Not much, and not enough to eat tires. I would like to repair this eventually if I can. From the microfich I have, it looks like there's a 2 price set of sleaves that hold everything tight, but it's a bit hard to tell. Has anyone repaired this? I'd love some pics with a bit of explanation if possible. The other is the steering box. Imwant to change the fluid, but for the life of me I can't find what fluid to use. My FSM only says change the fluid but not what to use. Any input on this would be most appreciated. Thanks!

test drove one about 2 years ago. The nutty salesman let me drive it like a maniac. Suckers love being thrown around, they handle shockingly well. I drove the 1.8, not the 1.6 so it had reasonably decent power. The I said F@#$ a car payment and bought my Datsun lol.

The weber gives noticeable performance gains, and is much easier to tune than the Hitachi IMO. And with some jet tuning, you can get it to perform how you want. Datsunaholic sounds like he has his tuned on the lean side, giving it the bog on the bottom, but with better top end. I tuned mine very slightly rich for slightly better torque as I actually haul stuff with my 521. The weber is also simpler making it easier to clean if needed, and also less to go wrong. Keep in mind power gains, might be noticeable, but aren't huge. It's not gonna go from 120bhp to 150bhp. From what I've read, it's an average of about 5bhp gains (someone correct me if I'm wrong there). But any power is good right?

Even with the visual, still pretty easy, at least for me. Still have the stock carb if I needed to swap back for any reason. Problems passing emissions, just flange in a CAT.

Partially right. They had regulations on newly sold vehicles (why some late 60s cars have things like smog pumps), but no laws regarding emmisions and emmision testing until august of 1973. They didn't introduce the visual check until the mid to late 70s. And the laws didn't effect the consumers until late '72 either. Now for all us that have engine swaps, if they wanted to be cocks, they could inspect to see if its a same year motor. If it's a newer motor, they can force you to keep it to emmisions standards of the year of the engine. Thankfully for most of us, they don't really check on that.

Weber is a German carb mfgr, so like mike said never original. Just a popular swap.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/ Microfiche :) actual part numbers ftw

Think he was bullshitting you. Just did some digging and not seeing anything about it. Nothing that's been officially announced anyway. If you do hear anything, let us know, but unlikely it'll come to pass thankfully.

Won't happen. Use to be a smog tech. California didn't have any smog regulation before 1972. Per a law written in 1962 when they passed the seatbelt law, they can't enforce regulations on vehicles that were built before the law was introduced. It was put into place so people with older vehicles don't have to rebuild their car every time a new law is passed. Currently the exempt status is 1975 and older. I can see them possibly go back to 72, unlikely but possible, they cannot legally go further back than that without amending several other laws first. It'll never happen.

Hrmmm.... Never seen a spring one. Mine's a locking cap and actually need to rebuild the hinge. If you find one and there's an extra, let me know. Might buy the extra :)

Not gonna comment on running, as I don't know, but legally for smog, prolly won't pass visual. If it looks the same you'll be fine, but they see any custom fuel routing, they'll fail it unfortunately, even if its perfectly fine for emissions. Like I said, not sure if you'll have to deal with that or not, more just an advisory warning than anything else.

If you're going for full coverage, look into Hagerty. Its a branch of Allstate specifically for older cars. You gotta pay the insurance up front, I think per year, but it's cheaper than trying to get full normal insurance. There are a few others that can do the same thing, but Hagardy is the biggest classic car insurance I know of. Once I get my truck more fixed up, I will be switching over to it myself.

Weirdly, mine is going more and more stock as I go. Making me less likely to custom it up. In the process of restoring the suspension to new, and prolly not gonna lower it at all. This truck has so many or the original parts... Making me jealous lol.

Oh good god. How lean was that thing?

Lol ya it's on the rough side. I've seen people do stuff like that though, so just throwin it out there.

And fresh paint too, if you just painted it.

This. Again, check your plugs. If the tip is white, lean. If its black and carboned up, rich. If its bad enough its not running right, might call to pick up some different jets. Checking your plugs is like taking a temperature. One you get this fuel issue corrected, you'll likely have to Regime it.

Kinda sounds like a timing issue, but it's difficult to tell from that short vid. Could be a lean issue too. Check your plugs, the color will tell you if that's the case. As for the timing, you can get yourself a timing light.

Good god I want your bumpers lol. You should see mine. Sitting not running 15+ years in Arizona, big holes in the foam. Really? Mine has one, albeit not in the best shape. Didn't realise it was uncommon though.

Have you tested if you're getting a spark at any of the plugs? If not, and as you say the coil is sparking, the problem is between the coil and the plugs. Could be the rotor, the cap, the wires, etc. If the plugs are sparking, check your timing. Maybe the distributor is 180 deg out.

$2000?!?! Really? I know it's a '71, but no motor, no wheels. No bumpers, door handles. He's asking 2g's for a shell pretty much, ya more like $500?

+1. It they swapped it to electric, easy fix is just get a new OEM fan and water pump... Problem solved. The TE's are bullet proof. Hell, you prolly barely need a fan in the thing lol

Got my radiator. So shiny and lovely. Damn thing didn't come with a radiator cap. Just spent $250, you'd expect it to come with a fuckin' cap. Well, just came back from O'Reilly's with one so I'm good. Just.... annoyed lol

This. Easy outs are made of high tempered steel, not really able to drill through out. If needed, drill some small little holes around where it's stuck and break apart the broken bolt to give you access to it. Again, be VERY careful to not drill anything but the bolt. Johns idea of welding a bolt to it can work too, but again, be careful to not weld it to, what is that the block? If I'm not mistaken that looks like a bolt that holds on the timing chain cover. You will need that bolt, so don't just do without. You'll likely end up getting water in your oil system which is never good.

We've kinda hijacked this guys thread for this lol. Okay, so let's think of what the egr does. It recirculates air from the exhaust back into the intake. This does 2 things that will reduce power. First is the deflection of the exhaust gasses. The same reason running little or no muffler, it reduces the friction of the air leaving the system to not have this there. Second, it's reintroducing hot CO back into the combustion system. This does 2 negative things for power. First, it heats up the intake gases spreading out the molecules reducing the power of the spark. Second it's mixing in CO into the combustion system that actually reduces the combustibility of mixture as well. Like I said, very small numbers are gained if it's done right. But the can be gained. The 5-10hp, high ball estemit if all the smog equipment is removed. This doesn't include the cat though. Its kinda obvious how that robs power.