Eomund

The connectors are in good shape (thank god), but all the internals were rebuilt, new bearings and all the wiring respooled. Basically its a new unit... Ish

@banzai. I still have the orifinal for my 72 and it's a mitsubishi. I just took mine in and had it rebuilt. Wasn't too bad. If I remember, like $120. This was like 4 years ago

I wanted to add, the mitsubishi alt is probably stock. Datsun, and many Nissans in Later years, ran either Mitsubishi or Hitachi electronics. It's important to know which one your truck has if you need to replace any of it as a lot of them aren't compatable with eachother. To be honest, I never figured out why they went back and fourth. I always guessed it had to do with which factory they were made in or something like that.

There's loads of Jeco clocks on ebay... They want a friggin mint for them too. Now all the ones I've seen are for other cars. Closest I've seen is one from a 510

Longest shift boot I've ever seen

Holy shit zombie thread.

My new shift knob :) And this is how she sits right now. Not horrible, but still rough. Went to a little car show today in her. One thing I cant complain about it how she drives. And Matt, I always use SB as a general location (as people know where it is). I'm specifically in Lompoc. Close enough, might have to do a mini Datsun meet lol

Oh, forgot to add. The old carpet was for a project I did like 6 years ago, saw it as a no money out, no butt stab option lol. I'm actually considering some low top single seats like from an old MG for it, but at the same time, I like the bench... Decisions decisions. What's funny, is as rough as she is, everyone loves her. I even get little kids give my truck props.

I would like to disagree, but you're kinda right. Thankfully it seems to be growing in my area, myneighbor just picked up a 75 z. So tanker, got a question. You posted a while back that you had someone in your area that could fix the worm gear on my steering rack. Do you know what the cost would be? Thanks!

Haha, I live in the Santa Barbara area.... Might be another reason why I'm broke lol. But as I said in the first post, I need to re build the entire interior. Suckers in baaad shape. So I can drive it, I covered the seat with some old carpet I got at home depot. I also need to start more on the body work. I've started a bit of it, but I will need to be ready for paint almost immediately when I'm done. The paint I'm looking at will run me around $300-400 a gallon. Again, more rambling just for rhetoric lol. I'm actually not doing so bad. I'm actually considering getting into fibreglassing my own parts that I still need.... Again that costs money lol.

Ya, I'm 30, so yes I work. And my question was more rhetorical than anything else. And maybe as a discussion point for working on your datto on a budget. And I agree, do what needs to be done first. Why I have a rebuilt 2.0, weber new tires, rebuilt brakes and rewired almost the whole thing. One big plus is as it works, she aint costing me a thing while I can't afford to do anything else.

I know being broke is a part of the Datsun condition. I'm just wondering how you all continue your cars on our budgets? It doesn't help I just picked up a Versa for a daily. Thankfully my lil truck is running like a sweetheart, but I really want to get started on the body work and interior. But I'm looking at some big outputs financially before I can do either. But hey, at least she drives (and well too), which is far better than not. More of a random bit of ranting and rambling. Add what you like. How to work on your trucks on a budget, whatever.

Or.... You can shelf it and get yourself a weber. Just an option, one that I took and am quite happy about.

Might need a new seal for the window too. You can try tightening the screws as a temp fix as mike said. Also, these trucks are notorious for working the bolts in the carb loose on the base. Give the whole thing a once over and make sure it's all nice and tight.

Damn nice truck. Can't wait to see the interior and engine shots. Oh, and just a note, you can post multiple pics by just copy pasting the code. If your using photobucket, just copy that code and paste it in a post. You can post pretty much as you want in a single post.

So final update to this. Got everything together a couple of days ago, and now,adjusted correctly. Ive pulled it apart twice to verify again that everything was good (gladly it's all correct and staying that way). Adjusting these brakes are fiddly as hell.

Ya it's not an auto adjuster. So final diagnosis, now that I've had it apart. The adjustment was way off.,enough,that it pushed the,cylinders far enough that it damaged on of the seals. It also pushed the cap that sits on the piston off due to its looseness.which was the audible clunk I heard. I need a new wheel cylinder now, and have one ordered. I'm still getting new drums after christmas, just cause I can.

Yup, single resivoir master, and yes, the brakes go out. The shoes aren't that old. And everything per the microphich and pictures are OEM. Think everyone else hit it right that it's just way outta wack in adjustment. I'll get some pictures when I work on it today.

Lol, tell that to my brakes

You guys seem to hit the nail on the head. The more I read, the more this definately holds water. Christ, how could I not notice it was a manual adjustment? This is the oldest car I've ever owned, never seen one manually adjusted before save a motorcycle. Thanks so much for the input. I'll update when I get it looked at (might not be today if it rains :( )

Hrmmmmmmm..... Okay, something to look into then. Very, very likely to be the issue. I'll look at it tomorrow. Good,to know you almost always have to check it as well.

I did want to check if anyone's had any issues like this before. My reasoning is , everything seemed way more loose than tolerances,should be. However, all the bolts and everything are tight, and none of the hardware is loose. Im 90% sure this is my problem, just looking for confirmation.

Oh, and to add, all my problems oddly have been with the rear breaks. When I get the time and money, Im prolly going to convert to dual reservoirs up front. Thinking of using the hardware from a Z.

No, they were blead properly, so thats not the case there. Everything is just too loose and jiggly. The binding, I had thought was from debris in the line or something, turns out something was just cocking or something due to being loose and all. I will order new drums and pads for,all 4 corners. I have new wheel cylinders for the front already that need to be installed. I will probalbly replace the rear cylinders.... Again... Just for good measure. After this, everything will be new in the brakes. Unfortunately the disc conversion is out of my price range. I'd love to do it, but the kits I've seen cost more than I paid for the truck. More than I can swing right now.

Well, after diagnosing, and fixing brake problems for a while now, I've found my problem. My drums are beyond worn out. Basically I've been having issue with the,auto adjusters, the pads either dragging or having,too much play and several other little issues that I was chasing. Today it , came to a head. One oof the pistons was pushed out of the wheel cylinder... Which should not be possible. I've been working on cars for 14+ years (god that makes me sound old), and some real bangers too. But I've never seen drums so worn the,wheel cylinders could push a piston out. I've located a store I can buy new drums for not a bad price (Rock auto has them). Unfortunately have,to wait till after Christmas. Not an informative post... Just venting. And before,anyone asks, me and the arthritic ol geisha are fine and un damaged. Silver lining, I found out what my problem is right?