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71 510 gets a new heart


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So I've had this 510 for a bit over a year. It was running for awhile but then the engine crapped out on me. So I bought a new one from bagged_datsun. It's the same one Aaron(phleb) had rebuilt for his truck. Anyway I got the engine today and Aaron asked I show some pics so he can see his baby back in action.

 

So from here on I'll be trying to keep an updated log of the install. It SHOULD be easy, but I'm no good at mechanical stuff and have never done this before. Wish me luck :fu:

 

For those who are interested, here's the link to my project thread on the510realm. Updated up until the engine died.

 

 

 

To start, here's the engine just after I got it today. Pulling the old motor starts Saturday. Maybe Friday after work :)

0122091557.jpg

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This'll be cake for ya. So long as you take your time and go about it carefully, you could have it swapped and running in a few hours. Hell, I swapped mine with a cheapy ($15) set of tools I bought at sears.

 

Have fun!

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This'll be cake for ya. So long as you take your time and go about it carefully, you could have it swapped and running in a few hours. Hell, I swapped mine with a cheapy ($15) set of tools I bought at sears.

 

Have fun!

 

My main concern is my 5-speed. I don't have a crossmember for it, nor do I know if it's in good condition.

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The Experimental Engineering 5 speed crossmember is a no brainer. Works with every Nissan 5 speed popular in 510's. The mount is a very common 280ZX transmission mount. The cross member is $75. I have one in my 510!

 

They don't have any in stock and won't for awhile. Already tried :(

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remember use the 510 engine mounts oil pick up and oil pan from the 510 motor in the car.

 

yes they are out of stock on the X members

 

But somebody told me that troy ermish has his own x members but I dont know if they fit all the 5 speeds.

 

you know why your other motor is bad?????

 

I found a Jeff Hino a KA 12v motor from a kid for free. said a cyl was bad. only later Jeff figured it out to be a bad spark plug!!!!!!!!

 

Be honest if your not mechanically inclined you shouldnt own a 510.

 

also is this replacing a L16/18 and this ais a L20b. Best to know the clutch system incase T/O bearing length could be different or did Arron throw all that in there?????????

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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they arnt that hard to make i have made a few in my time

DSC00593.jpg

the bottom onr is for a ka/sr swap and the top one is for that tranny that leans to tha passanger side i dont remeber witch datsun it came from a 200sx i think, both use a stock isolater. Make me an offer i dont need it and if i do I know how to make another one. Or if you need i could see about making one for you.

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remember use the 510 engine mounts oil pick up and oil pan from the 510 motor in the car.

 

Why do I need to use my old pickup and oil pan if it's an L16 that I'm swapping in?

 

you know why your other motor is bad?????

 

I found a Jeff Hino a KA 12v motor from a kid for free. said a cyl was bad. only later Jeff figured it out to be a bad spark plug!!!!!!!!

 

I don't know exactly what's wrong with it. Something with the valves I'm assuming.

 

Be honest if your not mechanically inclined you shouldnt own a 510.

 

Do you want to buy it from me then, Mr. Debbie Downer? Feel free to come and get it if you think it could go to a better home.

 

 

also is this replacing a L16/18 and this ais a L20b. Best to know the clutch system incase T/O bearing length could be different or did Arron throw all that in there?????????

It's an L16. replacing an L16.

I've got all the clutch, t/o bearing, clutch cover, etc... sitting in my garage.

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they arnt that hard to make i have made a few in my time

DSC00593.jpg

the bottom onr is for a ka/sr swap and the top one is for that tranny that leans to tha passanger side i dont remeber witch datsun it came from a 200sx i think, both use a stock isolater. Make me an offer i dont need it and if i do I know how to make another one. Or if you need i could see about making one for you.

 

We(My Brother-in-law and I) are going to see about making one. We're planning on jacking the transmission up into the tunnel and measuring it all out then cutting and welding a crossmember together. I wasn't aware he could do metal work until last night :lol:

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Alright. Got the car to the garage(barn) that we'll be doing the swap in. I'm really excited about it :D

 

0124091532.jpg

 

Got all the parts ready to put in. Well most of them :P

0124091551.jpg

 

 

Here it is 2 hours into the swap. Got everything removed from the engine, we're dropping the transmission tomorrow morning and pulling the engine out after that. Do you guys suggest keeping them together and pulling them? or separating them? Also should we put them back in together or separate?

 

0124091753.jpg

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If you have an engine hoist load adjuster where you can pivot the load, you can probably try the all in one yank. I find that tends to make it easier to ding up the core support, and you may have to lower the drag link?

 

Usually I pull the trans first then the motor.

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I disagree. I have an engine leveler. There's no way I want to assemble all that crap on the car. I just installed an L series with a long tail 5 speed along with alternator, intake & carbs, exhaust all the way to the rear of the trans. All of it in one motion. You just have to take it a little at a time. Went perfect. No new scratches on anything!

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I'm with Steve, I used to split the tranny and the engine and install seperately. I did it with the tranny and engine as one unit last time with a load levelers and engine hoist and it went really well. I hate doing the bits together in car.

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Did you guys have to remove anything, like the drag link? How high or low did you have the car? I haven't yet tried the all in one method except on the car I cut up where it didn't matter if I scuffed it up, and I was just yanking a junk motor and trans anyway.

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eh ive done both i just find it easier when there seperate dont have to worry about a seperate tool for the cherry picker and besides what is it 6 bellpusing bolts and a starter difference i just take the extra 5 minutes and pull the motor straight up

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Why do I need to use my old pickup and oil pan if it's an L16 that I'm swapping in? ????????????

 

Last time I cked Arron had a truck . Truck L16s use differnt motor mounts and oil pans!!!!! than 510s!!!!!!!

 

Info alert:

I seen people cut aand raise motor mounts on Datsun 521(installed taller L20) truck to clear the pan from the steering then I say "why didint you use the 521 oil pan and mounts"???????

they say,

"Oh I didnt think of that."

 

 

PS

"WHY" ?????would I want to buy your Car off you cause you cound not fix it.

otherwise my house would be full of Datsuns otherpeople coundnt fix.

Thats why Im on here so you can fix it yourself.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Why do I need to use my old pickup and oil pan if it's an L16 that I'm swapping in? ????????????

 

Last time I cked Arron had a truck . Truck L16s use differnt motor mounts and oil pans!!!!! than 510s!!!!!!!

 

Info alert:

I seen people cut aand raise motor mounts on Datsun 521(installed taller L20) truck to clear the pan from the steering then I say "why didint you use the 521 oil pan and mounts"???????

they say,

"Oh I didnt think of that."

 

 

PS

"WHY" ?????would I want to buy your Car off you cause you cound not fix it.

otherwise my house would be full of Datsuns otherpeople coundnt fix.

Thats why Im on here so you can fix it yourself.

 

I wasn't aware they used different oil pans and such. I'll remove them off of my engine and put them on the new one.

 

As far as the selling it. You seemed to be telling me not to own a 510 because I'm not a mechanic. Your help and opinion are incredibly valuable to me. So hearing you tell me I shouldn't own a 510 is kind of discouraging :(

 

 

Either way, we're getting back to work today. Couldn't do anything yesterday because of the snow. Hopefully we'll get it pulled quickly.

 

Do you guys suggest removing the rad to pull the engine? I am taking the radiator out anyway, so if it'll be easier to pull the motor without it I'll do that first.

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Sweet! I just found this thread. I pull my engine just about every month :lol:...I always pull the engine and tranny as one unit.

 

Takes about 1 hour or less to get it all out, and maybe a little more to get it all back in. I always jack up the front end and set it on jack stands.

 

I can't wait to see my old L16 in a 510. :D

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Do you guys suggest removing the rad to pull the engine? I am taking the radiator out anyway, so if it'll be easier to pull the motor without it I'll do that first.

 

I don't think one can ever have too much room to remove/install an engine. If the radiator has to come out anyway, pull it first.

 

Oh, and add me to the "engine-and-tranny-together" crowd.

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Sweet! I just found this thread. I pull my engine just about every month :lol:...I always pull the engine and tranny as one unit.

 

Takes about 1 hour or less to get it all out, and maybe a little more to get it all back in. I always jack up the front end and set it on jack stands.

 

I can't wait to see my old L16 in a 510. :D

 

We'll probably put it back in as one unit. We already have it all separated for pulling.

 

I'm really really excited to drive my 510 again.

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I don't think one can ever have too much room to remove/install an engine. If the radiator has to come out anyway, pull it first.

 

I'm pulling the radiator because there's another radiator in front of it(for AC?) that isnt hooked up to anything. so I'm pulling it out for weight savings:fu: and because it blocks my actual radiator. Might as well pull it if it's not in use, right?

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