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71 510 gets a new heart


comply

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That goes on before the flywheel, huh?

Shit. Guess I'll put some thread locker on them anyway when I take that puppy off! :D

Thanks for noticing! I completely forgot ><

 

Where is the engine plate that goes between the engine and the trans. ?

 

 

CBB

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  • 2 weeks later...

So we got the motor in, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate all cleaned off(with brake cleaner) and mounted/torqued to specified settings. Slid the transmission(with great effort) into the motor and secured it with bolts. Went to mount the transmission to the crossmember I got from duke and realised it's the same one that the stock transmission used. Doh. Either way it won't fit. If I have it all put together, the shifter side of the transmission sticks WAY into the cockpit and the transmission crossmember is still a goot half inch from touching the car. I dont know what to do with it.

 

And for pictures.

 

Here's our sophisticated mechanism to hold the transmission up while we mounted it to the engine

0506091834.jpg

0506091834a.jpg

 

Transmission mount

0507091746.jpg

 

And with the transmission basically inside the passenger compartment of the car, transmission mount on, and crossmember bolted to that, there's still half inch or so between the crossmember and the body of the car. Ugh.

0507091747.jpg

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did u get that bearing out

 

The throwout bearing? Yeah. I removed the old one from the sleeve, cleaned the sleeve off with brake cleaner, packed the inner recess with grease, and pressed the new bearing onto it. Then slid it onto the drive spindle with the retainer clip.

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I found a place to make me some spacers, and they offered me a deal on powder coating too so I had my exhaust manifold sandblasted and high-temp powder coated.

 

0515091533.jpg

 

Also, how important is it to cover the gap in this plate?

 

0507091752.jpg

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Didn't you get both pieces?? I would make a cover for it myself.

 

Looking good..I can't wait to hear her running again! :D

 

it came with a single piece with a chunk missing out of it(seen in picture)

I was thinking of cutting out a section of my old one(which is missing half of it somehow) and JB welding it onto there. I dont want to have to take it all apart though. Ugh.

 

 

My spacers don't work with the stock holes, I wish I would have known that. I knew they'd be off a little bit but I figured I could still use the old holes. We got the driveline in and started mounting the transmission. We are going to drill new holes for the crossmember and throw some huge washers and nuts on the bolts on the inside of the car.

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Alright. Got the transmission all finished and mounted. I even got my bushing sanded down and the shifter installed. No play or wobble in it at all! Awesome!

0516091845.jpg

 

We had to drill new holes for the crossmember because of the spacers, but they turned out well.

0516091835.jpg

0516091836.jpg

 

 

My only concern now is if the exhaust will fit now that the crossmember is an inch and a half lower.

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Got the exhaust and intake manifolds on. My exhaust manifold won't hook up with the downpipe/exhaust pipe though. the crossmember is in the way and wont let the exhaust move enough. So once it's running I'm driving it with just the headers to the exhaust shop. Yay.

 

Also got my rad in. Now it's just some wiring, hoses, and fluids.

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Got the clutch line ordered. Should be here Friday. I'm in a rush to get this all together. Saturday I head to Chicago for 3 weeks and after that I wont have my car to work on anymore. So I've got everything but coolant lines, the clutch line, and some small wiring. As far as coolant lines, where do they go? The ones I took off of the car don't make any sense. Neither does the Haynes manual

 

So do I run hoses along the green path, or the blue one?

0520091615.jpg

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Got everything set up. Had some issues with the timing. Looks like someone put another timing mark on it since the timing plate is on a different part of the motor. Anyway, it's timed to 10 degrees BTDC. Starts up and runs if I give it fuel down the carb. For some reason it's not getting fuel though. Both fuel pumps I have are working. One is brand new. Neither of them will pump fuel. If I take them out, I can pump them by hand and they work great, but when installed they don't pump enough pressure to even suck fuel out of the fuel can. Should I get an electric fuel pump?

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Got everything set up. Had some issues with the timing. Looks like someone put another timing mark on it since the timing plate is on a different part of the motor. Anyway, it's timed to 10 degrees BTDC. Starts up and runs if I give it fuel down the carb. For some reason it's not getting fuel though. Both fuel pumps I have are working. One is brand new. Neither of them will pump fuel. If I take them out, I can pump them by hand and they work great, but when installed they don't pump enough pressure to even suck fuel out of the fuel can. Should I get an electric fuel pump?

 

This is what I am talking about....

 

This is the spacer.

2wcpiep.jpg

 

As you know..the pump runs off this.

1zmnwa0.jpg

 

 

Make sure you have the spacer for the fuel pump in place...and not two of them. The concentric washer on the cam drives the fuel pump and if the spacer is not there you will not get enough of a motion to make the pump work properly. Easy fix bro.

 

The timing mark thing...haha..well, that is because I had to use another pully

because I cracked the stock one. The one that is on the motor now is from an L20b that is why the marks are off. ;) That was a bad day.

 

Heres my old one.

2hwmk9w.jpg

Let me know what you find on the spacer. :D

Edited by Phlebmaster
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What motor and carb set up is this?

 

After looking closer at the photo the later L motor th carb came with a idle cut off selenoid so the car/truck doent diesel with the later open chamber heads.IM pretty sure the L20s had them. I think I sent you a veid there was a carb part I was showing. It had a stock L20 carb with a few wires hanging from there.

 

There will be a wire hanging or really a few

1 choke wire

1 BCDD whatever that is

1 idle cut off.

 

Now I dont know what car you have but it looks stock. Early stock carbs did not have these. So Im just lying out the possibilities.

 

 

A idle cut off it will run if you pump the gas alot.Really its pumping gas from the accell pump circut(you see it squiring in there(like pouring gas from the top using a can) In the higher RPM you use the main jet circut so you dont see but but go back to near idle that jet will be plugged untill it sees 12volts or whatever it takes to trip it.

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The Idle Cut Solenoid is wired up correctly and working. When I turn the key to ON I can hear the solenoid click. The carburetor is off a later model L20. The choke and BCDD aren't hooked up.

 

 

What motor and carb set up is this?

 

After looking closer at the photo the later L motor th carb came with a idle cut off selenoid so the car/truck doent diesel with the later open chamber heads.IM pretty sure the L20s had them. I think I sent you a veid there was a carb part I was showing. It had a stock L20 carb with a few wires hanging from there.

 

There will be a wire hanging or really a few

1 choke wire

1 BCDD whatever that is

1 idle cut off.

 

Now I dont know what car you have but it looks stock. Early stock carbs did not have these. So Im just lying out the possibilities.

 

 

A idle cut off it will run if you pump the gas alot.Really its pumping gas from the accell pump circut(you see it squiring in there(like pouring gas from the top using a can) In the higher RPM you use the main jet circut so you dont see but but go back to near idle that jet will be plugged untill it sees 12volts or whatever it takes to trip it.

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Got the fuel pump working, I guess we just needed to prime it with some fuel first like Hainz said. After that the car started up and idled great. There was some smoke coming out of the transmission bellhousing through that hold I had. We figured it was exhaust entering through the hole at the bottom of the plate, and coming out through the top. Anyway we shut it off and fixed up the hole at the top.

0522092255.jpg

 

After that we dropped it off the jacks, and tried to drive it a few feet and it just won't idle like it was when it was on the jack stands.

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water lines are the BLUE routing!!!!!!!!!!!!beleive its in the Haynes manual also

 

I thought I PM that already

 

maybe wire up the choke also to see if it idles till it warms up.

 

ck the intake bolts carb bolts again.

 

see if carn runs with distributor crank to one side or the other. if it does. then hit the gas if it doesn the dist/oil pump coud be off a tooth.

But I will assume its good. But I know whay happens when I assume?

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  • 1 month later...

Alrighty, update. I had some issues with the drivetrain after the swap. Drove it no more than 1/8 of a mile and this happened to the pressure plate and t/o bearing

 

I HAD pictures but they broke. I'll try to upload them later

 

Apparently I used the wrong bearing carrier for the throwout bearing. Lesson learned I ordered a new pressure plate and bearing, got the correct bearing sleeve, and am waiting on delivery to put it back together.

Edited by comply
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