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510 Boso Wagon - Supercharged KA24DE


WagDatto

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Suspension? I thought we were talking about my blown motor! Oh well, yeah that wagon is vicious, but I'm not a fan... Oddly enough, it's just not my style. Doesn't even look like a 510 anymore.

 

I'm sad that the supercharger project is on hold AGAIN!!

 

The new motor only needs exhaust mani gaskets and a new throwout bearing before it goes in... I'm picking up an impact while I'm out, too, so that I can throw on the Fidanza flywheel. Clutch still has some meat, and it's a Centerforce centrifugal pressure plate, so it should be a good combo.

 

My body decided that after going to bed at 3:30am, it would be just perfect to wake up at 8:11am. I've been working since then. Lots of pictures, I'll update soon.

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Runs. I'm tired. Pics?

 

Worked from about 8:30 (body told me to wake up at 8:11) until 11pm. Got the new motor hooked up to the tranny by myself, which sucked. Got the motor on the motor mounts by myself.... which sucked too.

 

When we hooked it up, it wouldn't fire. Dizzy wasn't giving spark. Testing the harness proved that I did make a mistake in removing a few signal wires. Ran some temporarily ugly ties from the ECU plug to the dizzy. Car started. Idles too low because I installed the Fidanza light flywheel. Harness will get extended for the distributor tomorrow, and the wiring will be cleaned up, obviously. Idle will get adjusted, and everything will get a once-over. Exhaust is smoking while it burns off all the oil the last motor dumped through it.

 

Stoked... Shower. Sleep.

 

Contemplated FWD... Phil suggested AWD Pulsar swap. Lolz

IMG00292-20100215-1429.jpg

 

Motor ready to drop in:

IMG00294-20100215-1453.jpg

 

Motor dropping in:

IMG00295-20100215-1757.jpg

 

Motor dropped in:

IMG00296-20100215-2307.jpg

IMG00297-20100215-2308.jpg

IMG00298-20100215-2308.jpg

IMG00299-20100215-2308.jpg

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Well you're always welcome to swing by anyway. Chris is headed over in a little bit to hang out, I've just got some general tidbits to finish up before I call it done.

 

Clutch pedal feels different too... Not sure why? I changed the throwout bearing, but I'm pretty sure I replaced it with the same thing... I'm going to kill a MF'er if I have to drop the tranny.... We'll see what happens when I try to drive it!

 

Hit me up, Atom... I live in Sacramento, now, so I'm probably a bit closer to you anyway! Near Watt and Kiefer. 916.505.81O8

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Well the motor runs.. I extended the wiring for the Dizzy, hid it in the driver's frame rail and popped it out up by the radiator, so the wiring is VERY clean in the engine bay now!!

 

Bad news:

 

Clutch was feeling really weird last night, and today after the motor was done, I tried putting it in gear... No dice. It sounded like a skitting noise... I assumed it was the new T/O bearing knocked loose. Sucks, because I went through all the trouble of installing the motor without removing the transmission! Oh well!

 

Drained the tranny, removed and painted the driveshaft chrome, dropped the tranny (Thanks for the help, Kelly!), and it looks like the T/O bearing stayed in place just fine! The clutch line did have a little knick in it, but not to the line itself, just to the braided lining. Maybe that gave me the odd feeling, and I was overthinking the noise? Oh well...

 

We muscled the blue tranny in (it's going to look AWESOME!!), and FINALLY got it popped into the motor!! Such a pain in the ass on a 510, the tranny tunnel is JUST big enough for the KA tranny... Started trying to tighten down the bolts and it wouldn't go. The bolts would NOT pull the tranny into the motor!

 

After arguing with ourselves about wanting to drop the thing again... We pulled it and found that the aligning stud up top, and an aligning sleeve on the driver's side were still wedged into the holes, which was keeping it from slotting together... Pain in my ASS!!

 

I need to grab the easy-outs from Phil tomorrow anyway to fix the exhaust stud that broke off anyway, so I'll be able to get those out really quick and hopefully be able to pop the tranny in easier this time...

 

Then the driveshaft goes in, and we fill the tranny through the shifter before I put that all back together... Then hopefully... HOPEFULLY, my car will stop being moody and drive. The motor runs so smooth when you start it, and sounds great, and leaks no fluids, and it revs SO much faster with the new flywheel.... I want to roast the tires!!! I've got a set of 13" Datsun wheels just BEGGING to be slapped on the rear axle and burnt up....

 

Speaking of which, any break-in required for a Cometic MLS headgasket?

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Haha, a handful of people have asked what I'm going to do with the bad motor. For now, I'm not doing ANYTHING except putting it on the stand and using it to finish mocking up the supercharger. I have a bad alternator, dirty alt bracket, and the tensioner pulley I was going to use or modify... So I should be able to get a full mock up on the supercharger build. That's the only part that needs help, besides hardware and belt length. I will also need to cut out an extra oil block gasket from the gasket paper I bought the other day. Then we should be good to go!

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It runs. It drives. It sounds and feels as good as it looks, too. Clutch needs to be bled a time or two, but other than that, it's working like it should.

 

Also, when I rev the motor, there is a slight vibration... Comes and goes with revs, regardless of load. I'll fiddle around and see if I can figure that one out, too, but I'm stumped for now.

 

The wire tuck turned out amazing, but I'll have to fiddle with a few things to make it perfect. I'm excited to see what you guys think as far as that one goes. So far, no fires, so I think that's my biggest accomplishment!

 

 

How she's sitting:

IMG00300-20100218-0152.jpg

 

Full view:

IMG00301-20100218-0152.jpg

 

Some close ups of wiring and such:

IMG00302-20100218-0152.jpg

IMG00303-20100218-0152.jpg

 

Relocated Dizzy wiring:

IMG00304-20100218-0153.jpg

 

Few shots of the tranny:

IMG00307-20100218-0153.jpg

IMG00298-20100215-2308.jpg

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I'll be checking tranny mount tomorrow morning... er... this morning? I don't know, though, I have a feeling it's inside the bellhousing. I have two big holes drilled into the bottom of the bellhousing for viewing, so I'll pop my head under there and see if I can figure something out.

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Atom, this transmission is like $4200. Shit's gone up over the past few months. Don't question it!

 

Fisch, thanks! I can't say that I made progress... I think this is almost a step back? Ah well, I'm going to keep plugging away after I get every little kink worked out with the car. A bad motor works just as well for mocking things up as a good motor, it just doesn't look as cool for pictures!

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So as much as I hate to say this (again), I'm not sure what I want to do... I'm contemplating putting my car up for trade. I do love the 'goon, but I'm just not as in love with the scene as I used to be. I want something I can rely on. And even though it was kind of fun doing all the work on my car, I guess it just made me realize that it's time to get out of this car for a while.

 

The unfortunate side of this is that the cars/trucks that I'd like to have right now are all above what I can afford while I still have this car. So rather than sell, I'm thinking of a trade... Rather than post a "testing waters" thread in the For Sale section, I figured I'd hear what you guys have to say about it. Console me!! Give me some pity speeches and tell me what you think.

 

As far as the car, the main thing that got me thinking was that I got a free set of rear box flares, and if I cut the wagon, the chances of me selling are ZERO.

 

1972 Datsun 510 Wagon

 

Motorset

-1994 KA24DE

-JUST swapped a low mileage dual cam in. Inspected the pistons and bearings, and everything checked out. Has a brand new Cometic Headgasket, new oil pan gasket, new timing chain lower and upper set, new tensioners and guides, new front and rear main seals, etc, etc. Everything on the motor for the most part has been painted/polished/powdercoated. Using Nology Hotwires, and the distributor has a new cap and rotor. Uses a Fidanza lightweight flywheel, and a Centerforce centrifugal pressure plate and aggressive street clutch disk.

-Wiring harness and ECU are from a 1995, to make full use of the F3 plug. The harness is wired in using the Female side of the F3 plug, so the full engine harness can be removed without cutting any wires. The engine harness and F3 plug were also de-pinned of all unnecessary wiring the proper way, and the interior side of the harness was shortened about a foot, so it mounts neatly to the kick panel and I planned on making a cover for the ECU and the piggyback I would have used for the supercharger.

-Included is everything I've acquired for the Supercharger swap I'd been building. This includes: two Eaton M62 blowers, one in bad condition, can be used for mockup, rebuild or sale, and one that was opened, cleaned, ported for wastegate, sound reduction holes welded, and polished/painted. Brand new oil is ready to be put in. Also including a .5" aluminum adapter plate for the KA manifold to Eaton blower with tapped ports for IACV, vacuum and boost gauge, an upper intake manifold with no butterfly valves that has been polished and cleaned, and already has SR20DET 370cc injectors installed in a freshly cleaned KA24DE fuel rail on it. Intake elbow and piping, couplers and clamps are all ready to be bolted on once everything is on the motor. I also have a Alternator bracket/boost belt tensioner that can be used or modified to make better. A GReddy Emanage Blue, misc oil filter relocation parts and other misc parts are also included in the "kit."

-Transmission is a low mileage S13 5 speed that was owned by an older couple, then sold to a younger gal. Shifts smoothly into all gears, and was cleaned inside the bellhousing and out, and has been painted True Blue with several layers of clear coat to make it easier to clean up for a show. Has a brand new Throwout Bearing installed.

-Datsun 521 Clutch Master Cylinder helps to redirect the clutch line to an easier location, connects to a SS braided line and new KA slave cylinder.

-Uses a stock 510 sedan driveshaft (painted chrome) that goes to a stock wagon axle with fresh gear oil (painted gloss black).

 

Interior

-Starting at the front: Stock gauge cluster surround, radio bezel (has been cut at one point to fit a stereo, am using a DATSUN plate as a radio delete), and glove box. Gauges are a stock 510 Speedometer (possibly broken, might be able to fix it), stock 510 Tachometer and the temp/gas gauge has been replaced with an AEM wideband gauge to monitor the air/fuel mixture in the exhaust. Glove box has a metal BRE badge. I also have installed an electric water temperature gauge, mechanical oil pressure gauge and a nice programmable fuel gauge under the ash tray in a 3-gauge cluster. Dash pad is a stock 510 pad that has had cracks repaired, and was upholstered over with a foam base and black vinyl material. Gives the dash pad a little "squish" and looks modern.

-Steering wheel is a Momo 510 hub, connecting to a NRG slim quick release (lets you remove the steering wheel), and is bolted to a Maziora 350mm JDM steering wheel (changes color in light from Green, to Gold, to Purple) with chrome spokes. I can also include a 350mm NRG wheel which has black spokes and black leather wheel with a Yellow center marker if you prefer it.

-The interior is carpeted using the typical Loop Pile carpet in front passenger area, and I used black "indoor/outdoor" carpet under the rear seats and into the cargo area for a more durable, but still matching, carpet kit.

-Datsport transmission tunnel cover shoots up to a stock KA shifter and two 3" aluminum shifter extensions topped with a Hurst "pistol grip" shift knob. Shifter extensions can be removed if you prefer.

-Front seats are from an early 90's BMW 3 series and are black leather with very minor cracks, no tears. They are very comfortable, and hold you in place very well without being too aggressive. Rear seats are stock 510 wagon, and are not currently installed, but I will include seats and all brakets to reinstall them if you want.

-Currently has no headliner, but roof has been sprayed with textured "bed liner" paint which has reduced a fair amount of vibration and noise. Also sports a "newer 510" dome light and lens that functions perfectly.

-Has all door panels, kick panels and interior handles.

-Ignition has been rebuilt using NEW key cylinder and ignition switch, and has a functioning steering wheel lock.

-Optima redtop battery is mounted behind passenger side rear seat using a FBI Billet Aluminum Optima mount, which holds it from the bottom for a clean look and to eliminate the chances of shorting to a post across the top. Thick gauge battery cables are run using new post clamps, and the rear seat folds up and down without interfering with the battery or wiring.

 

Suspension

-Front: 280zx struts have been shortened and use rear MR2 Tokico Illumina shocks. Shaft collars hold up Ground Control adjustable sleeves and Eibach 300# springs under Ground Control camber plates.

-NEW 280zx Brake Master Cylinder runs to NEW stainless braided lines.

-Brake pads have tons of meat on them. Wheel bearings were replaced and greased recently, and make no noise upon spinning.

-I replaced the stock 280zx wheel studs with extended Nismo studs front AND rear for more aggressive aftermarket wheel options, and the option to run spacers if you need to.

-Front struts were painted High Gloss Black, covered with a rainbow metalic flake mixed into the first 3 layers of clear, and followed with several more layers of clear to keep them clean easier.

-Rear: 510 wagon leaf springs were professionally de-arched and stiffened and feel GREAT compared to the front spring rate. Leaf springs have NEW FACTORY bushings front and rear, and longer U-Bolts to clamp down on 2.5" steel lowering blocks that feature a pinion adjusting "tilt" to keep the driveshaft angle correct at the new ride height.

-Shocks were replaced with KYB OEM replacements when I bought the car a few years ago, and feel good, though they're the only weak point in the rear suspension.

-Drums were taken in and surfaced, and all shoes have been inspected to make sure the rear brakes were good, as this was a car I've been driving every day. Rear wheel cylinders have been replaced with brand new ones, and the brakes feel great front and rear. Car stops when you tell it to.

-Rear is using a sway bar with brand new hardware, though I'm not sure of the brand.

-Suspension pieces in front have been powdercoated (adjustable T/C rods, control arms, crossmember)

 

Body

-To be honest, most every panel needs some work. The car looks GREAT in pictures and from 10' away, but if you're looking for show quality body work and paint, this car needs a bit before it's at that point.

-Valance was a NOS piece for the project it was originally mounted on and never driven. Mounted on it is a BRE Spook chin spoiler that should be replaced.

-Grill surround trim is all there and in good shape (eyebrows, hood trim and lower trim).

-Front fenders are full fiberglass BRE style bubble flared fenders and have some minor damage, but look great from 10' away.

-Hood is in GREAT shape

-Doors all open and close, though the driver's door latch needs to be adjusted because you have to close it hard for it to hold the latch.

-Front windshield is a NOS replacement and has ZERO pitting.

-All glass is in great shape, though the hatch glass does have a small gouge in it from what looks like a rock someone hit it with a long time ago. It's not cracked, just gouged a little.

-I imported metal window visors from Malaysia, which really make the car look cool, in my opinion.

-All weatherstripping is new EXCEPT for the cargo windows and hatch window and rear 1/4 windows. Front windshield, interior/exterior window squeegies, front and rear door, front and rear window channel felt, wiper boot seals were all replaced and the car stays DRY inside!!

-Rear fenders have been pulled to accept my wheels at this ride height. I can have them reworked to be a bit cleaner if you like, or I can include the rear box flares if you want to continue the project where I've left off.

 

Things to Note

-The wheels that are currently on the car (Hayashi Racing - Talon) will NOT be coming with the car. The wheels are my brothers and he doesn't plan on getting rid of them. We can work out a possible set of Longchamps or you can provide your own set.

-The Bluebird grill... I would PREFER not to get rid of. If it's worth it to you, we can work something out. You would be getting a fully polished 70-73 grill.

--Details on the grill: I got it with zero cracks or issues, tore it all apart and stripped the paint. I repainted the metal center Gloss Black, and polished the top trim lines. I also painted the plastic bezels Gloss Black with Chrome trim lines.

--Another note, we also have a 68 grill that could be installed instead... But again, I would prefer to get rid of the car with the 70-73 polished grill.

-The roof rack as well is not included, but if it has to go, I'll let you have it, we can work it out.

 

There are many things about the car that I haven't touched on, I'm sure, but if you skim through the past 25 pages of this thread, you'll see the work put into it. I easily have over 10k into the car, not including the supercharger kit or the new motor, but obviously don't expect to get 10k for it! Again, I'm just looking for something new, I guess... All the work that I want to do on the car right now requires taking it off the road, and I can't do that right now.

 

Things I'm looking for:

WRX/Evo

Nissan/Toyota truck

VIP'able project

Something 2000ish or newer that's fun and an import.

 

I'm not set on getting rid of it, but I'm trying to explore my options. It's hard for me to focus on pushing toward a career right now when I've got a car that I want to work on and sink money into.

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I do love the 'goon, but I'm just not as in love with the scene as I used to be.

 

It's hard for me to focus on pushing toward a career right now when I've got a car that I want to work on and sink money into.

:huh:

 

fuck the scene!

if you get rid of it, you will be a [stupid] motherfucker!

 

 

 

so... when ya gonna sign that pink over to me mr. supachaga? ;)

 

 

 

i got 2 that arent on the road. :angry:

stay focused!!!

you just need a reliable DD as well.

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:unsure: idk man it would be a sad thing to let it go i personally couldnt do it i wanna see the boso 510 goon completed i think it would be awesome if i were you i would look on cl for a cheap little beater i know there is an 80 somthin 200sx auto on there for 800 that would be an awsome beater

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I don't NEED another beater. I'm living pretty much right AT my means just living in this house and paying all my bills. I can't afford to get a car that will take more money from me. I don't have the money to get a decent reliable car WITHOUT selling the Wagon.

 

I can always build another Datsun, and I'm not saying I'm done with Datsuns. But I do need to get my feet under me and further myself in life. I need a car that I could safely drive without the worry of it breaking down. I know that my wagon is reliable, especially with the new motor, but it's been reliable because I keep sinking money into it, as with any project car. I just need to get rid of an expense and upgrade my job.

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