tsteve69 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 The 510 wagon driveshaft is a weird design. Yes, you can have it shortened, and if you do, call the driveshaft shop you want to use and ask them how they measure, take your measurements, and hand it off to them. HOWEVER!!! Lucky for us wagon owners, there is an easier way. Assuming you're doing the typical KA swap on your 510 (bolting up to the stock 510 motor mounts, etc), the distance between the tranny flange and the differential is EXACTLY the right size to use a stock 510 sedan drive shaft (2 door or 4 door). Cheaper, easier, and it gets away from the weird wagon shaft, too. Because you'd be using an old stock part, make sure you clean all the splines on the shaft, and clear out any old dirt or grime out, or it won't slide into the transmission. And although the 'goon is long gone (never even heard from the new owner aside from him telling me he received it), I'm on the forum nearly every day lurking around. I rarely have anything special to add, and I'm keeping my eyes open for anything innovative in the scene... but never see anything that I haven't seen before, which saddens me. I've got ideas in my head that would make people shit bricks if I could get another project. I'm living in an apartment, so I can't have an ongoing project here, and I also don't have a ton of spare money either, so for the time being, I'm sticking with the Fronty. thank you for the response i am doing a ka swap picked up my wagon for 600 it was parked since 96 so i picked it up did a tune up and breathed life into this old girl im going to daily the original engine till i get the ka and trans built and everythin i need for the swap then spend a weekend and get it done Quote Link to comment
tsteve69 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 The 510 wagon driveshaft is a weird design. Yes, you can have it shortened, and if you do, call the driveshaft shop you want to use and ask them how they measure, take your measurements, and hand it off to them. HOWEVER!!! Lucky for us wagon owners, there is an easier way. Assuming you're doing the typical KA swap on your 510 (bolting up to the stock 510 motor mounts, etc), the distance between the tranny flange and the differential is EXACTLY the right size to use a stock 510 sedan drive shaft (2 door or 4 door). Cheaper, easier, and it gets away from the weird wagon shaft, too. Because you'd be using an old stock part, make sure you clean all the splines on the shaft, and clear out any old dirt or grime out, or it won't slide into the transmission. And although the 'goon is long gone (never even heard from the new owner aside from him telling me he received it), I'm on the forum nearly every day lurking around. I rarely have anything special to add, and I'm keeping my eyes open for anything innovative in the scene... but never see anything that I haven't seen before, which saddens me. I've got ideas in my head that would make people shit bricks if I could get another project. I'm living in an apartment, so I can't have an ongoing project here, and I also don't have a ton of spare money either, so for the time being, I'm sticking with the Fronty. thank you for the response i am doing a ka swap picked up my wagon for 600 it was parked since 96 so i picked it up did a tune up and breathed life into this old girl im going to daily the original engine till i get the ka and trans built and everythin i need for the swap then spend a weekend and get it done Quote Link to comment
AuosGnaf Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 So I FINALLY got around to installing the rear extended wheel studs! I'm glad I didn't get ones that were LONGER, because then I'd either have to remove the wheel bearing to install them, or drill a big hole into the backing plate to slot them through! Pain in the ass!! Thanks again, Chris (NorCalDime), for showing up to lend a hand! Trying to get the studs threaded through would have been a NIGHTMARE without you! This whole ordeal would have been easier if I had DISK BRAKES in the rear! That's definitely on my list of "to do's" in the near-ish future.... It was like a zillion degrees outside, so even after 20 minutes, the spray paint hadn't dried, so meh... I have a palm print on my drums.. screw it, I don't care. Can't see them anyway! Here's a few pictures... Extended wheel studs, red drums and Project Mu floating lug nuts! How did you remove the old studs and install the extended studs with the back plate in the way? Because I want to install longer studs too. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 How did you remove the old studs and install the extended studs with the back plate in the way? Because I want to install longer studs too. This guy hasnt signed on in a long time. And sold the wagon a long time ago. 1 Quote Link to comment
AuosGnaf Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 This guy hasnt signed on in a long time. And sold the wagon a long time ago. Aw mang! Ok thanks! Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 How did you remove the old studs and install the extended studs with the back plate in the way? Because I want to install longer studs too. They are pressed in from the back. Pound them out with a hammer and insert the new ones in the hole. Use a spacer and tighten the lug nut up until the new lugs seat. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 2eDeYe' timestamp='1354031801' post='802234']They are pressed in from the back. Pound them out with a hammer and insert the new ones in the hole. Use a spacer and tighten the lug nut up until the new lugs seat. smart ASS... He has to drill a hole in the backing plate. To fit the longer stud through. Bre made swiss cheese out if it for better cooling. Haha Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 smart ASS... He has to drill a hole in the backing plate. To fit the longer stud through. Bre made swiss cheese out if it for better cooling. Haha lol, I would assume the axle would get pulled if the new lugs were too long. Holes made it lighter too, because racecar. :lol: Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 2eDeYe' timestamp='1354119201' post='802913']lol, I would assume the axle would get pulled if the new lugs were too long. Was thinking the same lol Quote Link to comment
RedBanner Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 I've ben telling folks to drill a hole for years, now I can say, its what Brock does. Lol Quote Link to comment
AuosGnaf Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 2eDeYe' timestamp='1354031801' post='802234'] They are pressed in from the back. Pound them out with a hammer and insert the new ones in the hole. Use a spacer and tighten the lug nut up until the new lugs seat. Thanks fellas! 1 Quote Link to comment
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