Joecar Posted May 2 Author Report Share Posted May 2 8 minutes ago, frankendat said: Rats, I thought GB would be able to square you away, since they are listed as the ones who supply them to the various resellers (like Rock auto) Did GB clarify any distinction between the 86 and 87 injectors? Not really they just told me they are very hard to come by and told me rock auto is their supplier Quote Link to comment
frankendat Posted May 2 Report Share Posted May 2 6 minutes ago, Joecar said: Not really they just told me they are very hard to come by and told me rock auto is their supplier Don't tell anybody or assholes are going to jack up the price for old ones. I know everybody is tired of hearing "back in the day" but back in the day you could score them at the pick and pull for less than $5-and "back in the day" was 2022. Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 3 Author Report Share Posted May 3 Wow. Wished I had found about them sooner Quote Link to comment
frankendat Posted May 3 Report Share Posted May 3 29 minutes ago, Joecar said: Wow. Wished I had found about them sooner If they remain elusive, my carb offer stands Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 This morning I noticed how bad my truck vibrates on the highway. Around 60-75mph it’s vibrating somewhere, it’s only when I press on the gas when it vibrates, if I let off it drives normally. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 Check play in I joints. Does the transfer case lever vibrate hard? Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 1 hour ago, bottomwatcher said: Check play in I joints. Does the transfer case lever vibrate hard? No didn’t see any movement from there Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 On 5/2/2024 at 2:11 PM, Joecar said: Another thing that’s bothering me is the handbrake light illuminating when the handbrake isn’t even engaged. What would fix this issue The brake warning light is not just for warning that the emergency brake is on. There are two other things that can cause the brake warning light and both are extremely important. 1/ A lot of Nissans back then had a sensor in each of the brake master cylinder reservoirs to warn when the fluid gets low. 2/ There is a pressure sensor between the front and rear brake hydraulic circuits. As long as there is pressure in both nothing happens but if there is a leak causing low pressure in one the higher pressure in the other pushes the switch, it's tripped and the warning light comes on. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 Late '85/'86 Z24i fuel injectors are part number 16021-89W00 The D21 Hardbody Z24i injectors are 16021-03G15 16021-41G00 or 16021-78G00 The Vanette Z24i injectors are 16021-17C00 They may interchange but if they were exactly identical the numbers would be the same I would think. For example the wire end terminals may have changed. Quote Link to comment
NC85ST Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 17 hours ago, Joecar said: it’s only when I press on the gas when it vibrates Could it be the engine or transmission mount? Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 2 hours ago, NC85ST said: Could it be the engine or transmission mount? I’m not sure cause at low speeds it doesn’t feel like anything is shaking it moving Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 20 hours ago, Joecar said: This morning I noticed how bad my truck vibrates on the highway. Around 60-75mph it’s vibrating somewhere, it’s only when I press on the gas when it vibrates, if I let off it drives normally. Any ideas on what could be causing this? Visually look at the exhaust pipe, look for anywhere where the pipe is near the body or drive train and might 'rub'. When the engine is under load it torques counter clockwise moving the exhaust up and down. Grab the cold pipe and pull hard and shake it... does it hit anything? Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 8 Author Report Share Posted May 8 On 5/5/2024 at 3:56 PM, datzenmike said: Visually look at the exhaust pipe, look for anywhere where the pipe is near the body or drive train and might 'rub'. When the engine is under load it torques counter clockwise moving the exhaust up and down. Grab the cold pipe and pull hard and shake it... does it hit anything? Definitely both of the back hanger rubber bushings need to be replaced but the front of it is solid. Don’t see anything hitting eachother Quote Link to comment
ElliotV Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 On 5/7/2024 at 7:50 PM, Joecar said: Definitely both of the back hanger rubber bushings need to be replaced but the front of it is solid. Don’t see anything hitting eachother could be the bushings moving around hows the manifold look and are there any exhaust leaks Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 9 Author Report Share Posted May 9 1 hour ago, ElliotV said: could be the bushings moving around hows the manifold look and are there any exhaust leaks Manifold looks to be okay but my muffler is gonna have to be replaced Quote Link to comment
ElliotV Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 1 hour ago, Joecar said: Manifold looks to be okay but my muffler is gonna have to be replaced that could very well be the source that muffler has seen some things Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 13 Author Report Share Posted May 13 Sourced a used tailgate in rather good shape than mine, gonna be repainted but I wanted to know what bolts secured the handle mechanism, lost mine in a bucket of other bolts and what not. 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 They are Phillips sheet metal screws. Get them at the hardware store. 1 Quote Link to comment
ElliotV Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 19 hours ago, Joecar said: Sourced a used tailgate in rather good shape than mine, gonna be repainted but I wanted to know what bolts secured the handle mechanism, lost mine in a bucket of other bolts and what not. I'm jealous mine looks like someone dropped a tree on it. Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 21 Author Report Share Posted May 21 I’m having an issue at night where I cannot see anything cause my dome light isn’t working. I replaced the bulb, I checked the door sensor things and they seem to work and make the door chime when it’s open. So I’m not really sure what’s causing it not to work. Either they have a fuse or some timer Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 21 Report Share Posted May 21 That's good. The door chime is on a different fuse (#13 or 3rd from the right) and I believe they are a double switch with one just for the interior lamp. Just because the chime works doesn't mean the lamp does. The interior light is on the same fuse as the marker, license and tail lights so it probably ok or you would have noticed it. Do the tail lights work? The KC interior light has a 3 position switch on it. I would check that there is power to one side of the lamp. Power goes to the bulb, through it and to ground either by the lamp switch or one of the door switches. Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 21 Author Report Share Posted May 21 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: That's good. The door chime is on a different fuse (#13 or 3rd from the right) and I believe they are a double switch with one just for the interior lamp. Just because the chime works doesn't mean the lamp does. The interior light is on the same fuse as the marker, license and tail lights so it probably ok or you would have noticed it. Do the tail lights work? The KC interior light has a 3 position switch on it. I would check that there is power to one side of the lamp. Power goes to the bulb, through it and to ground either by the lamp switch or one of the door switches. Yes all my lights work as intended, I’ll have to check the grounds. I also looked at the passenger side door switch and it seems to work too Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 21 Report Share Posted May 21 I can't believe the ground at the light switch and both door switches are no good. Get a $4 test lamp, they are invaluable (and cheap) for testing for power or grounds. The interior lamp must have power on one side of the bulb to work. Quote Link to comment
Joecar Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 11 hours ago, datzenmike said: I can't believe the ground at the light switch and both door switches are no good. Get a $4 test lamp, they are invaluable (and cheap) for testing for power or grounds. The interior lamp must have power on one side of the bulb to work. Okay I got me one and I’m testing it. I put my ground on the seat bolt that’s sanded, I got a light on the middle cable but nothing else but when I had the switch all the way pushed up I got a light on the left cable and on the light bulb housing Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 It's a three position switch??? If so there is an off position so you can sit in the dark with a door open There is a door position that turns light on when either door opens There is an on position so you can read a map without opening a door. The terminal (marked with red paint) on the far left should have power at all times. It should go to the bottom center terminal of the bulb. Is this what you called the middle cable? Quote Link to comment
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