ElliotV

sadly that number is getting fewer and fewer, if you dabble in the really old stuff kansas is the closest place to get babbit bearings redone and clutch and brake relining is becoming a forgotten art as well, used to be a place in Tulsa that did it and now they are closed, old building is still there but not sure how long ago they closed.

I am not using the blue wire because I don't want to cut the connector to splice in a wire and I don't trust just sticking a wire into the pin to run my choke. Yes I know that the electric choke needs power when the ignition is on, I know how to wire in extra circuits without draining my battery since I have been doing aftermarket stuff for a few years now and have made several of my own DC circuits. That supply wire is coming from a switch in the cab of the truck because I was on the side of the road and the truck was acting like the choke was closing so I hooked it up to a output wire that was connected to the solenoid for the compressor I had in my toolbox to make sure it was getting good power and remove the possibilty of this being a issue. This switchboard is only recieving power from a solenoid when the key is in the accessory position or ignition posistion since I have the signal wire tapped into the fuse panel in the truck, this is not part of my issue because as stated it has 14v when the truck is running which is the same charging voltage of this truck since I bought it and this is a new alternator and when I was messing with it this morning I could feel the choke housing heating up from the spring.

So this morning I took the air cleaner off and bumped the throttle which is the first picture, the choke is completly closed. After I started it is the second picture idling at 1900rpm on the high idle and the third picture is after a minute or so when I hit the throttle the choke opened. The truck didn't freak out and bog at all while I was driving and I did check and I have 14v to the choke while the truck is running. And of course I can't post images from a link again so there will be 3 posts

Sounds a lot like your head gasket blew between cylinders, mine did almost exactly what you are talking about but I never made it a block after it happened because I parked it and came back out and bam started running like crap and had that rattling sound you are talking about like it was pinging hard. Definitely do a compression test before running it much more because otherwise you can damage the head.

Looks like someone gutted the thermoelectric spring in favor for a normal cable setup, as long as the choke opens and closes fully I see no problem with that setup. My issue is I don't mess with these electric/automatic chokes. Only thing I ever touched that wasn't manual before this was a old qjet that had a vacuum pot and worked just fine.

Whenever I start the truck I turn the key on and hit the gas once and it fires right up and idles at about 1900rpm, the reason I end up holding it is because after about a minute the engine gets some heat in it and it will end up reaching 2300rpm or higher. I'll have to take a look at it tomorrow morning, I know I checked it once before I started it and it closed fine. I haven't looked at it while on the highway. If it is closed on the highway should I loosen it? Or is there another adjustment I can make.

So my Weber has been running good since I installed it back in February but I have had a bit of a issue that only sometimes happens in the morning when I'm leaving for work. When I start the truck in the morning I usually will hold the idle around 1500rpm to get some heat into it and won't leave until my temp gauge starts to at least get into range. I have 12v hooked up to my choke on a switch in the cab to make sure I have good power in case the original wiring wasn't supplying the correct voltage. On my way to work this morning I let it warm up for about 7-8min then left and whenever getting up to speed about 30-35mph in third it started to buck and act like it was bogging and was doing it worse in 4th and I didn't even try 5th till I got the the highway and then it was still doing it. When I push the clutch in and open the throttle it will sometimes rev up and other times it just goes to idle and runs like crap. Even if I'm moving and then push the clutch in and hit the gas it revs up a little before going to idle at full throttle and sounds like I am opening the throttle and then closing it. This leads me to believe that the choke is getting pulled shut by the vacuum of me opening the throttle blades, it did this for the entire 30min it was running this morning and I couldn't get above 55-60 on the highway while normally reaching 70-75 to pass people is no problem. Any ideas as to what could be causing this or is there something I can do to get the choke to stay open like it's supposed to?

I just did the steering box on my truck and if I remember that rag joint is part of the whole assembly and cannot be replaced, I might have a extra one thats good if you need it.

Nissan recommends around 650-700 in drive for idle on automatic transmissions from what I remember. You might also just be opening it up too fast causing that little bog, mine will do the same thing if I just absolutely dump on it in second gear.

The little lips on the edge will go behind the lug nuts

it could be a possibility. When my headgasket blew my truck was missing hard and stubled off idle but I only tested at 35psi on 3 and 4 vs 170psi on 1 and 2 but it wasn't doing what you guys are describing.

Let me know if you end up not fixing it or need a second set of eyes this weekend. I might not being doing anything and could lend a hand.

Im currently using the 4x4parts.com lift kit with new a-arms and the add-a-leaf for the back in addition to the 30% higher rate torsion bars from them. The reason for the torsion bars is my old ones were worn out and these new ones will be able to handle having my winch bumper on if I ever manage to get it installed. I have no body lift and dont plan to run one because from what I have found you need electric fans, modified shifter setup, and the steering column can have issues as well. I still have the 235/75r15 dextero AT tires that came with my truck installed since they have plenty of tread left for now but I plan on going to 30x9.50r15s for my next set of AT tires on the factory wheels and I have some 15x8 wheels with more offset that I plan on putting some 31x10.50-15 MT tires on once I can free them from the truck that they are on. 31x10.50 is the largest you can fit without cutting the fenders and beating into the fender well of the truck.