Pretty in primer. A ‘69 521.

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, Slow Loris said:

I have not taken the cluster out but I did reach my paw back there and put new lights in it. This is a new phenomenon (worked since replacing dash lights) so not sure what I did to it since. I messed with various switches recently (cleaned combination switch, cleaned hazard switch, light switch), new flashers. I did swap in new fuses and did a lot of taillight wiring and now here we are.

 

@Crashtd420 did your green arrows work with the hazards only? I’m most confused by how they blink with hazards but not the turn switches.  I can live with a blinking IGN light as a right turn indicator—that’s perfectly quirky for a 54 year old truck.

 

 

Are they LED lamps?

 

Flashing ignition light is wack.

[Slow Loris]

They are indeed LED. With key in ign position, ign light behaves though. But now I wonder if that’s light I’m seeing bleeding from elsewhere hmmm…Anyway things only get weird when the turn signals come into play.

 

@thisismatt Weird. Easy enough to start with fuses I guess before I create my own gremlins. 

[Slow Loris]

Ok so ign light definitely lit with key in ign position. Then actually flipping turn signal in either direction causes ign light to blink. No green arrows.

 

If I swap back in the old flasher and switch right turn, I get a right hand arrow AND a flashing ign light. If I switch left, only flashing ign light. Both arrows come on with hazards regardless. 
 

Some kinda flasher problemo? Or still thinking cluster problemo?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I don't remember the specifics, but there have been many cases where people install LED flashers and they just don't work. I think there are different kids of LED flashers.

 

I try to buy LED stuff from specialists, like superbright - https://www.superbrightleds.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=flasher

[Crashtd420]

3 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I don't remember the specifics, but there have been many cases where people install LED flashers and they just don't work. I think there are different kids of LED flashers.

 

I try to buy LED stuff from specialists, like superbright - https://www.superbrightleds.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=flasher

The leds work in the cluster without much difference in flash speed. Dont use for the charge light, that should remain a normal bulb because of the alternator...

 

You can get adjustable flasher units too... I'm using LEDs in my taillights and needed to use them for both the turn signals and the hazard... then you can balance the flash speed... 

 

 

[Crashtd420]

11 hours ago, Slow Loris said:

Ok so ign light definitely lit with key in ign position. Then actually flipping turn signal in either direction causes ign light to blink. No green arrows.

 

If I swap back in the old flasher and switch right turn, I get a right hand arrow AND a flashing ign light. If I switch left, only flashing ign light. Both arrows come on with hazards regardless. 
 

Some kinda flasher problemo? Or still thinking cluster problemo?

If everything works on the outside fine I'd look at the cluster.... some leds only like to be 1 way or they won't even work.... 

Did this only start happening after you replaced the cluster bulbs?

[Slow Loris]

Ok here’s what I’ve learned:

 

I took all the LEDs out and found a good old fashioned bulb. I popped that in the left turn slot and behold there was light! I popped that same one in the right turn socket and…nothing…a flicker…then…light! Intermittently..poorly…

 

I think I’ve got some dirty contacts then? I put same bulb in the IGN slot and it did still seem to blink with the turn signals.

 

It seems what I’m seeing with the flashing IGN light is it dimming every time the cluster turn arrow lights up, and with the bright-ass LED it looks really dramatic. In fact I’ve got a separate a temp and oil gauge and their backlights dim with the arrows too.
 

Once I rule out dirty contacts I’ll try gain with the LEDs, but it does seem like some of them might just be non-functional. I will check out superbrightleds.

 

So is it normal to see a bit of dimming in the rest of the cluster when your green arrow is flashing? Or is my cluster a bit rickety?

[Crashtd420]

If the led doesn't work you can flip it around in the holder and try again, the usually only work 1 way not the other... 

Dirty contacts and grounds are always an issue with these clusters, so clean up what you can.... 

I used a small piece of scotch brite to polish where the bulb contacts touch the board... 

[Slow Loris]

Nice yeah that’s looking shinier and gold-er back there now. I think I’ve got an annoying combination of bad bulbs, bad LEDs regardless of direction, and maybe some bad or dirty or broken bulb sockets just for good measure…not adding up to much success at the moment. Seemed like there is sort of a sweet spot of twist to get the contact right, but they don’t really hold. I’ll get all these sorted and maybe go back to the old bulbs as a proof of concept in case there’s something else amiss with the cluster. I’ve got some replacements on order from superbright and some bulb sockets too.

[Slow Loris]

Dash lights all good! I think maybe the sockets I was using were real far gone and the contacts were dirty. These ones hold nice and tight. AND I CAN SEE.

[Slow Loris]

Okay, but now I’ve got brake problems. As in, my brakes are WEAK. Not driveable. The brakes are adjusted such that it is difficult to spin the wheels in the air, and I can hear them dragging when pushing the truck out of the garage. Drums and shoes are new. Parking brake as adjusted works well.

 

Reading an old thread about play between the pushrod to master. I’m not sure if I’m thinking about it correctly. I have a lot of play, like if I push the pedal down the pushrod moves in about 1/2” before there is resistance from the master. But how to adjust this? I can’t make my pushrod any longer, and the threads on the brake light switch are maxed out so I can’t make that any closer to the pedal arm. The bump stop above the switch does not contact the pedal arm at rest. The arm rests on the switch.

I’ll adjust, bleed, readjust, bench bleed and all that again, yes. But I’ve not done anything with this pushrod adjustment since installing the new master.

[Slow Loris]

On 9/18/2022 at 5:38 PM, datzenmike said:

See if the build date is on the driver's door jam. If the build date is July '69 or after then it's a '70 model year truck. You definitely have an L series engine and that's a lot of work to replace a J13 in a '69.

 

Cylinders 3 and 4 really jumped when oil was sealing the rings. Compression down near 100 is not good. Get running and check the choke does shut off, check the valve lash. Does it over heat? Does it use coolant?  Drive it a few miles and retest. Some compression may come back but don't hold your breath.

 

So when you said that’s a lot of work to replace a J13 in a ‘69 with an L series…a lot of work like you’d do a frame/body swap?? Seems extreme…

 

I just uncovered the spot on the frame with the car number and it’s a PL…obviously non-matching to the car number on the engine bay plate. 

 

Or maybe the cab/cowl is what was swapped and most of the truck is more like PL and less like 1969? 
 

Curious.

[sick620]

Our truck is a 69. I thought that they all came with l16 in 69 I guess I was wrong. Also 69 had the little round side markers. Not the square ones that yours has. So some things have obviously been swapped around on this truck.. If you need any parts or help working on it we are in Payette Idaho. Come by some time and we will lower it 😉

Edited April 1, 2023 by sick620

[thisismatt]

My 69 that came with a J13 and has 1300 emblems says otherwise

[sick620]

39 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

My 69 that came with a J13 and has 1300 emblems says otherwise

Hmm edited my comment... I guess 69 had L16 as an option? or possibly 1st half of 69 trucks were L521 and second half were PL521? That's crazy. A little ratsun research and I see now that 69 and before had the round markers, and 70 and after had square, So your truck has different fenders and bed, or someone titled it as a 1969 slow loris. 

Edited April 1, 2023 by sick620

[thisismatt]

51 minutes ago, sick620 said:

Hmm edited my comment... I guess 69 had L16 as an option? or possibly 1st half of 69 trucks were L521 and second half were PL521? That's crazy. A little ratsun research and I see now that 69 and before had the round markers, and 70 and after had square, So your truck has different fenders and bed, or someone titled it as a 1969 slow loris. 

There seems to be crossover with a lot of Datsuns.  Another thing on 69's is they still had the lever actuated locks, but already had the bosses on the top of the door for the lock knobs that would start the next model year.

[Slow Loris]

10 hours ago, sick620 said:

Hmm edited my comment... I guess 69 had L16 as an option? or possibly 1st half of 69 trucks were L521 and second half were PL521? That's crazy. A little ratsun research and I see now that 69 and before had the round markers, and 70 and after had square, So your truck has different fenders and bed, or someone titled it as a 1969 slow loris. 

Oh, the bed too? The front fenders definitely non matching to the rest of the truck I’m guessing from the paint underneath the black.The bed is the same color as most of the rest but I guess odds are pretty good you’d find a baby blue Datsun bed.

 

Yeah so the cowl id plate indicates an Oct 68-Jun 69 date (J13) while the frame would be an Oct 69 to Jan 70, according to thread..somewhere.
 

The doors also don’t match…Ha! someone tried pretty hard to keep this truck on the road! Now it’s my turn.

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Automotive mysteries keep them interesting.

 

Changeover years are always a free for all where specifications are concerned. All vehicle manufacturers have been known to build vehicles that aren't supposed to exist during those transitions. New models get parts meant for older models and vice-versa.

[sick620]

12 hours ago, Slow Loris said:

Oh, the bed too? The front fenders definitely non matching to the rest of the truck I’m guessing from the paint underneath the black.The bed is the same color as most of the rest but I guess odds are pretty good you’d find a baby blue Datsun bed.

 

Yeah so the cowl id plate indicates an Oct 68-Jun 69 date (J13) while the frame would be an Oct 69 to Jan 70, according to thread..somewhere.
 

The doors also don’t match…Ha! someone tried pretty hard to keep this truck on the road! Now it’s my turn.

 

 

 

So the frame was a PL521 frame and no modifications were needed to run that L18 and transmission it all bolted up correctly. Your cab is definitely a bit earlier "J" cab as indicated by that cowl plate since your floor had to be cut to accommodate the L Series transmission. Fenders are later model like your frame or later, as well as bed. So possibly someone had a wrecked or beat up PL521 that needed a cab and they found a parts truck....

 

Our 1969 truck was from florida originally and although spec wise it is obviously a 1969 it is titled as a 1970 simply because it took so long to get them across the country so by the time it sold it was titled later. I tell everyone we have a 1969 521 because that is technically what it is... Seems like you are in the opposite situation, titled as 69 because of your cab, but it is really a 1970 because of frame, fenders, and bed. 

 

Also I want to add that there is a reasonable chance that is an imported JDM motor. My first datsun was a 79 620. It had an L18 with A87 peanut head (not a combo that came in that year). Ended up being a "peanut head" and was a jdm imported motor. In the 80's and 90's it was sometimes cheaper to import a low mileage Jdm motor for these trucks apposed to rebuilding, and L18 is a rare motor in the USA otherwise... If so I have a running L20B on an engine stand I'll trade you 😉 haha JK but worth taking apart for rebuild and seeing if it is in fact a peanut head. 

Edited April 2, 2023 by sick620

[thisismatt]

Door locks, fender & bed marker lights, frame...all indicating a 70-71

[Slow Loris]

Very interesting! Thanks all, for the history lessons. What other secrets are in there…oh yeah maybe this one:

 

13 hours ago, sick620 said:

Also I want to add that there is a reasonable chance that is an imported JDM motor. My first datsun was a 79 620. It had an L18 with A87 peanut head (not a combo that came in that year). Ended up being a "peanut head" and was a jdm imported motor. In the 80's and 90's it was sometimes cheaper to import a low mileage Jdm motor for these trucks apposed to rebuilding, and L18 is a rare motor in the USA otherwise... If so I have a running L20B on an engine stand I'll trade you 😉 haha JK but worth taking apart for rebuild and seeing if it is in fact a peanut head. 

Only one way to find out I guess!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

15 hours ago, sick620 said:

Also I want to add that there is a reasonable chance that is an imported JDM motor. My first datsun was a 79 620. It had an L18 with A87 peanut head (not a combo that came in that year). Ended up being a "peanut head" and was a jdm imported motor. In the 80's and 90's it was sometimes cheaper to import a low mileage Jdm motor for these trucks apposed to rebuilding, and L18 is a rare motor in the USA otherwise... If so I have a running L20B on an engine stand I'll trade you 😉 haha JK but worth taking apart for rebuild and seeing if it is in fact a peanut head. 

Used to buy them for $300 from a shop in Oakland. I forget the name if the shop.

[Slow Loris]

We are running. We are driving. And now…most ELUSIVELY…we are STOPPING!

 

Brakes brakes brakes!

 

I pretty much started from square one after somehow still not having brakes. It seemed like my (new) master was defective as I went to bench bleed it again, and the front circuit would push fluid out…then suck it right back in, bubbles and all.

 

So I had a replacement, different model, and that bench bled just great. Hooked it up and…still no brakes. So…took off the drum on my first guess and found this little turd:

 

 

Nice little chunk taken out of the rubber there. Replaced it. And now…

 

BRAKES!!!

 

OH YEAH.

 

Edited April 17, 2023 by Slow Loris

[Slow Loris]

Whoa long time no Datsun.

 

Small amounts of effort made on the truck. Did some interior updates—took all the black paint off down to the original teal. Learned that this isn’t the same as the bed which is a blue. Oh well.

 

Repainted the doors with a color matching spray paint…but the original is so faded it doesn’t really match. Oh well. Whatever it’s better than black:

Also homemade door cards, nothing fancy but better than the weird plastic panel that was in there.

 

Worked over and old wood steering wheel and stained it, also made this shift knob out of a wooden egg:

 

 

Been doing some wiring work. Had to run a new wire for the reverse lights to get them to work. Switch was fine but no continuity.

 

Also gussied up the voltage regulator on the cluster because truck came with the suspicious aftermarket water temp gauge and never read fuel correctly. Still using the aftermarket temp but now fuel reads properly! Small victories.

 

Learned I’d set the timing on the wrong timing mark—there are two on my timing cover one that confusingly didn’t match the marks on the pulley, also installed a tach so as to assist with this and some minor carb idle adjustments.

 

Acquired a copy of How to Keep Your Datsun Alive. Love it.

 

Running pretty okay! Now—to the DMV!

[DARIN 510]

2 hours ago, Slow Loris said:

Worked over and old wood steering wheel and stained it, also made this shift knob out of a wooden egg:

That’s a dope idea. I love egg shaped shift knobs.