Pretty in primer. A ‘69 521.

[Slow Loris]

Thanks! Honestly it’s actually really nice to shift too, better than my expectations by far. Would recommend to any diy shift knob people. I think the egg cost me all of $2 too!

[Slow Loris]

Just took a bad drive around the neighborhood. Had hardly any power most of the time…engine would quiet down (not really stutter just kind of…take a dive) like it was about to die and then…CRACK a very sharp noise followed by a little burst of power which would remain until the next up or downshift, and then repeat the process. I never gave it enough gas in 1st to experience the noise and sudden power (no power in first whatsoever—I thought initially maybe I wasn’t actually in 1st it was bogging and revving like that), so maybe somehow throttle/fuel related? Or clutch problem? Hard to describe the sound—more like a loud quick grind than like a detonation. Very loud very sharp.

Never experienced this before on similar drives. Haven’t changed a whole heck of a lot mechanically since last time I drove it.

 

What the heck?

 

[Slow Loris]

Okay well never mind the clutch issues for now I’m exploring that hydraulically before I do anything drastic.

 

I have found a couple carb issues. This is a manual choke stock hitachi.
 

1) it’s loose

middle section wiggles-it seems tight to manifold and air horn is tight to the middle section but the middle part wiggles a bit. I tightened this screw (below) which helped a lot but it still moves. Everything above that screw wiggles together, everything below it feels firm. I feel like carb is not something where I want to go removing bolts and screws Willy nilly, so any advice re what does/does not need to come out to tighten this up? I assume air horn must come off, are there some long bolts under that gasket that are apparent after I get that off?

 

 

 

 

 

2) something’s missing?

in looking for obvious bolts to tighten I noticed this:

I found a diagram in a book that looks like maybe where the secondary slow jet is supposed to be?

 

Seems important.

 

[Slow Loris]

Alright plugged that hole in the carb and nothing bad happened…

 

Removed carb and replaced the bottom gasket and the one just under the top section and retightened to manifold.

 

All seems happy. 
 

I drastically readjusted the clutch slave and pedal to see if that changes driving behavior but haven’t had a test drive yet. I did a driveway slip test with the truck in 4th and it stalled right away so that’s good.

 

But I feel light the release bearing/something isnt returning as it should based on my last test drive. It’s like slow to return, but does eventually.

 

Is there a way to get at it to unstick it while trans still on truck? I can’t see too far into the opening at the release lever to tell what’s happening.

 

[Slow Loris]

Hmm so it’s routinely trying to die after I shift into second and accelerate. First and reverse are not a problem. 
 

And it really abruptly cuts out, not even a stumble or a bog just a straight up silent cut out. it’s like 

 

first gear take off…fine

clutch in, second gear, lift clutch

accelerator, immediate cut out
 

It’s recoverable with the clutch in, and at times will push through the cut out if I stay on the gas, but other times, it dies.

 

I guess maybe fuel delivery, but it’s weird how sudden it cuts out. Not your average stall. No bucking.

 

I had been thinking some type of clutch slippage or poor clutch release return but I’m not sure…

 

Any ideas?

 

 

[Slow Loris]

 

What’s number 33 supposed to look like? Manual says “cushion-contact plate”

 

Is it like a little squishy rubber thing? Something to keep #32 off the hub I presume?

[thisismatt]

Yeah, it's a rubber bumper. I have some nos around here somewhere. They deteriorate/disintegrate over the years

[Slow Loris]

Okay thanks I’ll stick some o rings on there and see what happens. Seems like I’m not making contact when I hit the horn button so I’m hoping these move the plate up towards the back of the button? Not really sure what’s happening to be honest. 

[Slow Loris]

Ah ha. Those pieces are crucial! I made something out of an old spark plug boot and now I’m honking up a storm. 

[Slow Loris]

Dang seems like everyone has dusted off the Datsun these days! Still a little wintry here but I made some time to put in some carpet, get a steering wheel in and do a headliner.

 

 

 

only several hundred dozen things left to knock out!

 

[Slow Loris]

Extended test drive. Hot damn we are runnin and drivin guys. The weird stall-out issue I guess was a little bit solved by a new accel pump and a little bit solved by a heavier right foot, oh and maybe the adjustment to the clutch slave—who knows—all three helped! Definitely gotta get used to the sounds and revs, but seems like she pulls strong if you lay into it a little more than I’d think.

 

Needs a little adjustment on the brakes and also the shifter boot is impeding the shifting it gets so bound up but after that…TO THE DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES.

[Slow Loris]

Evidently I’m missing the gasket at the exhaust flange. Might explain the volume of the motor (loud)? Oh well can’t wait to snap those studs off!

[Slow Loris]

Exhaust collector gasket solved—no studs broken! WOW it is so quiet now haha. I can’t believe my ears.

 

However I was motivated to put in a brake proportioning valve since I was locking up the rears after doing the dual m/c and now I’m having a hard time bleeding the rear circuit now so I’m thinking I have a big bubble stuck or have a little air seep or something. I dunno but it’s a bit annoying to not have brakes and have everything else working pretty good!