njp.18 Posted March 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: No there is also the outer seal too. That's the one I noticed 2 different sizes, it's under the bearing in the hub.... the inner seal would be for the axle housing .... And yes I believe I got them all from rock auto.... I think someone gave me the bearings though, but they were timken. The axle shims I got from nissan.... Once you put the new bearings in you want to check the end play... I have a bunch of extra ones from when I did mine so depending on your time line and thickness I might be able to help you with a couple. Just let me know if you need some. ok cool, did you replace your inner axle seals when you did the job? I dont believe mine is leaking but am wondering if its neccesary to do since ill be back there. And would the bearings I need be considered the rear inners even though their seal is considered the rear outer seal? Edited March 28, 2022 by njp.18 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted March 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 3 hours ago, Goemon said: STONE axle tube seals...should be Japanese https://www.ebay.com/itm/350753320664 JUPITER Grease seal...Japanese https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheal-Seal-for-Datsun-Lazorlite-L81-6647-NOS-/202628831996?hash=item2f2d9e9afc I used KOYO bearings, Japanese, the lock rings are D21 You will be left with a lot of slop after you tighten the nut. That is where the end play shims come in......You will need a tool like this to measure endplay thank you, are these part numbers for the 620 or 521? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 6 minutes ago, njp.18 said: ok cool, did you replace your inner axle seals when you did the job? I dont believe mine is leaking but am wondering if its neccesary to do since ill be back there. And would the bearings I need be considered the rear inners even though their seal is considered the rear outer seal? I know what you saying about inner and outer, confuses me sometimes as well... The rear only has one bearing so I dont know why they say inner or outer for that one.... And you mine as well do the inner seal while your there... but that me.. its definitely the easier of the 2 to do.... You could check my build thread from about this time last year.... I did the whole rebuild plus some on my rear axle... I listed the part numbers.... The 521 truck section also has a parts post... that has some good info about all this ... I think it's only a page or 2 back... 2 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 Don't 521 & 620 both have H 190 (?) rear ends? 2 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted March 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 (edited) 12 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: I know what you saying about inner and outer, confuses me sometimes as well... The rear only has one bearing so I dont know why they say inner or outer for that one.... And you mine as well do the inner seal while your there... but that me.. its definitely the easier of the 2 to do.... You could check my build thread from about this time last year.... I did the whole rebuild plus some on my rear axle... I listed the part numbers.... The 521 truck section also has a parts post... that has some good info about all this ... I think it's only a page or 2 back... thanks, those pages had some great info. where were u able to find new lock washers and lock nuts? Edited March 29, 2022 by njp.18 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 6 hours ago, njp.18 said: thanks, those pages had some great info. where were u able to find new lock washers and lock nuts? II didnt bother, they were in good shape so I reused mine.... 2 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted March 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 (edited) On 3/28/2022 at 6:01 AM, Goemon said: STONE axle tube seals...should be Japanese https://www.ebay.com/itm/350753320664 JUPITER Grease seal...Japanese https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheal-Seal-for-Datsun-Lazorlite-L81-6647-NOS-/202628831996?hash=item2f2d9e9afc I used KOYO bearings, Japanese, the lock rings are D21 You will be left with a lot of slop after you tighten the nut. That is where the end play shims come in......You will need a tool like this to measure endplay where were u able to find the d21 lock washers? edit: I found the 43069-r9000 d21 lock washers on nissanpartsdeal.com Edited March 30, 2022 by njp.18 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted March 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 7 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: II didnt bother, they were in good shape so I reused mine.... got it. u do have to bend the lock washers during removal right? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 3 hours ago, njp.18 said: got it. u do have to bend the lock washers during removal right? I believe so yes... 1 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted March 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 18 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: I believe so yes... are there any sizes in particular you recommend getting for the shims? in the manual, it says standard thickness is .0059, which means I should be able to get away with 1 of the .0059 shims on each side but sounds like its not always that easy. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 1 hour ago, njp.18 said: are there any sizes in particular you recommend getting for the shims? in the manual, it says standard thickness is .0059, which means I should be able to get away with 1 of the .0059 shims on each side but sounds like its not always that easy. It's not that easy, you have to measure the end play with an indicator before you can determine the shims you need.... You may need to add and its possible you might have to remove a shim.... i was able to buy a few different thicknesses to achieve the proper end play.... it took a couple times to get it perfect... I also split the difference when I was done so I had an equal stack of shims on each side..... Make sure you tighten the bolts all the way so you get a proper reading... 2 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted April 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) I am thinking about swapping my stock brake master cylinder on my 521 for a dual m/c. I have drum brakes all around and have some questions. -First off, I don't have the spring that is supposed to attach from the pin that goes through the brake pushrod to the tab where the clutch pedal spring is. I was wondering if this spring is necessary? I dont have trouble with my brake pedal returning after pressing it when driving currently. If it is necessary for when doing the swap, could anyone share the overall length of the spring? - I saw @mklotz70 talking about m/c's on a thread.. the disc/drum 75 610 m/c and the drum/drum 76 620 drum m/c. I would like to get the 610 m/c since i wouldnt have to modify the bleeder screws. However, since it is disc/drum, will it only have residual valves in the rear port? -Is it necessary for me to use a brake booster or prop valve for this swap? Edited April 17, 2022 by njp.18 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 14 hours ago, njp.18 said: I am thinking about swapping my stock brake master cylinder on my 521 for a dual m/c. I have drum brakes all around and have some questions. -First off, I don't have the spring that is supposed to attach from the pin that goes through the brake pushrod to the tab where the clutch pedal spring is. I was wondering if this spring is necessary? I dont have trouble with my brake pedal returning after pressing it when driving currently. If it is necessary for when doing the swap, could anyone share the overall length of the spring? - I saw @mklotz70 talking about m/c's on a thread.. the disc/drum 75 610 m/c and the drum/drum 76 620 drum m/c. I would like to get the 610 m/c since i wouldnt have to modify the bleeder screws. However, since it is disc/drum, will it only have residual valves in the rear port? -Is it necessary for me to use a brake booster or prop valve for this swap? You wouldnt need a brake booster or prop valve.... Disc is a 2 lb valve and drums are I believe 10lbs... they will both be inside... What ever master you get you can just remove the residual valve in the master cylinder thats wrong then get an external inline residual valve... You can find them at jegs or summit very easily... Then when you convert the front to disk you can swap the valve back in.. I can check the spring later if no one else has the answer... 2 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted April 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 3 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: You wouldnt need a brake booster or prop valve.... Disc is a 2 lb valve and drums are I believe 10lbs... they will both be inside... What ever master you get you can just remove the residual valve in the master cylinder thats wrong then get an external inline residual valve... You can find them at jegs or summit very easily... Then when you convert the front to disk you can swap the valve back in.. I can check the spring later if no one else has the answer... ok thanks so much Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted April 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 (edited) Would I use double flares on all the lines I make even if the fitting has a bubble flare, like this sae to metric adapter for the m/c? https://www.finditparts.com/products/10408098/ags-company-blf31c?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K10408098-L439&gclid=CjwKCAjw9e6SBhB2EiwA5myr9oVmwwt0P4rCCrVeb6SiVyycp9OE4zjhYA-nlOpQMN6PPpWRgdmPRxoCeC4QAvD_BwE I also saw in this video( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=td46dXlVy84 ) @2:50, he uses the brake line on the bottom of the tee for the new line going to the master cylinder for the front brakes. However, on my truck, that line on the bottom of the tee goes to my driver side front drum brake. I feel like the correct hose to use for the front brakes on the new master would be the line on the drivers side of the tee that goes to my stock master cylinder? Edited April 17, 2022 by njp.18 Quote Link to comment
Goemon Posted April 19, 2022 Report Share Posted April 19, 2022 The manual says not to reuse the old lock washers due to the tab breaking off I suppose. If you do reuse them do not bend the same tab over, if anything break it off. 1 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted April 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2022 How do you guys suggest removing the rear ebrake cable thats connected to the backing plate? Ive removed it before but cant remember if I tapped it out or what. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 21, 2022 Report Share Posted April 21, 2022 First remove the secondary brake shoe and separate the cable end from the toggle. You'll see when the drum is off. I think the cable now just pulls back out. 2 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted April 21, 2022 Report Share Posted April 21, 2022 If you've never seen the inside of a brake m/c, this might be interesting...... http://www.bluehandsinc.com/brake-master-cylinder-anatomy.html I'm pretty sure the residual valves inside the m/c are the same, but this was a disc/disc....I think.....maybe I should put a disc/drum one apart. There's lots of other how-to's out there on brake flaring, but mine has gotten a few views and comments. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 21, 2022 Report Share Posted April 21, 2022 If you suck at or dont like doing brake line flairs like me I recommend buying this tool.... What's really nice is it can get into smaller locations than other types and I can say it does a perfect flair every time.... Only drawback is they are only one size per tool, the do make others for different size lines... I believe they are 3/16 but everything on my truck is not really stock.... Just double check what you have.. Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_YDT6D41XGESPV29KM1VS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 2 Quote Link to comment
njp.18 Posted April 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 hey guys, i replaced my rear wheel bearing the other day and so i removed the brake line and ebrake line in the process. I bled the brakes after and got the air out. After taking the truck for a drive, the brake pedal goes almost to the floor for the first/couple presses, and then it feels fine. but then if i continue to drive, without using the brakes, the next time i use the brakes again will feel spongy and go far to the floor, and then will be fine again. almost like its losing pressure and then building back up. the brakes were fine before and when doing the wheel bearing all i touched was the brake line and ebrake cable. the wheel cylinders dust caps had popped off but i just put them back in and i dont think they would effect anything. let me know w any ideas. thanks. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 30, 2022 Report Share Posted April 30, 2022 Did you readjust the brakes? 2 Quote Link to comment
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