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Datsun 521 Project


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On 8/15/2021 at 2:20 PM, njp.18 said:

It looks like I am missing the e brake return springs on both of my rear brakes. Do you know what they connect to so I could get an idea on how long they would have to be in case I can find some at a hardware store. https://docs.google.com/document/d/10uzYaIfTb0IQAAa9t6K-MSKY85dF0XaBnEjJGIqq_20/edit?usp=sharing

So this is what they look like..

Yes I have a pair of them....

I was trying to keep it together with the other brake hardware but if your really in need I'll send them to you...

 

These are the actual dimensions..

Inside 11/32

Outside.  15/32

Length.  5- 1/4

Good luck... private message me if you cant find a suitable replacement.....

 

*Technical difficulties on the pic*

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Hey guys, I was wondering what the difference would look like if I put a 15x6 wheel with a 3.75 backspace on my 521 vs a 15x7 wheel with a 4 inch backspace. I know the less backspacing the wheel has, the more the tire will stick out but my 521 has the stock 14x6's on it with 195 75 r14's and I don't know the stock offset/backspacing. It looks like that set up is almost identical to if I were to I put 195 70 r15s on it but I'm not sure about whether I should get 15x6 or the 15x7 because of the backspacing differences. My truck sits basically stock with a 1inch lowering drop block in the back.

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8 hours ago, njp.18 said:

Hey guys, I was wondering where the heater hoses for a 521 go to after being connected to the 2 pipes on the firewall?

Output from the heater is from the lower radiator fitting, should be one that points to the back...

Input to heater goes to the back corner of the head ....

Edited by Crashtd420
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Hot water flows from the head to the lower rad hose. (suction side of the water pump) I don't think it really matters which way it flows through the heater, usually to the valve from the head but does it really matter once the valve is shut or adjusted? off is off and on is on.

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24 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Hot water flows from the head to the lower rad hose. (suction side of the water pump) I don't think it really matters which way it flows through the heater, usually to the valve from the head but does it really matter once the valve is shut or adjusted? off is off and on is on.

You are correct , completely stated it backwards.... corrected my post...

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2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

You are correct , completely stated it backwards.... corrected my post...

 

But if connected to the outlet side and the core leaks, you are sitting on wet carpet.  If connected to the inlet side, you can shut it off and protect your interior floor mats etc.

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It's intended that they be compliant and give to allow articulation as the suspension moves. Only rubber fits this requirement. Poly is way too stiff and instead of compressing it forces the tension rod to flex around it and that will eventually lead to metal fatigue and/or the risk of it failing without warning. You can 'soften' the poly bushings by drilling a ring of holes. (allegedly)

 

fmP1NuV.jpg

 

LwdPmOd.jpg

 

The tension rod forms a very stable triangle with the frame and the lower control arm. If the tension rod should fail the outer end of the lower control arm is unsupported. Any steering input will pull the tire to the rear from forward motion and friction with the pavement. Braking will be many times worse forcing the tire backwards. It's a scary thought.

 

Only thing I would use poly on is the sway arm links..... or a race car where they are inspected and replaced as needed.   

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

It's intended that they be compliant and give to allow articulation as the suspension moves. Only rubber fits this requirement. Poly is way too stiff and instead of compressing it forces the tension rod to flex around it and that will eventually lead to metal fatigue and/or the risk of it failing without warning. You can 'soften' the poly bushings by drilling a ring of holes. (allegedly)

 

fmP1NuV.jpg

 

LwdPmOd.jpg

 

The tension rod forms a very stable triangle with the frame and the lower control arm. If the tension rod should fail the outer end of the lower control arm is unsupported. Any steering input will pull the tire to the rear from forward motion and friction with the pavement. Braking will be many times worse forcing the tire backwards. It's a scary thought.

 

Only thing I would use poly on is the sway arm links..... or a race car where they are inspected and replaced as needed.   

ok thanks, i am only able to find poly ones. do you have a source for rubber

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 Well glad I checked. I assumed the 521 was similar to the 510 and 620. Not even close. They appear to be small like the ones on the front sway bar links and the tops of shock absorbers. In fact the 520 uses them for that as well. 

 

Here's a swap bar link kit. Do these look like the poly ones you were going to buy??

 

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/sway-bar-link/p/rare-parts-sway-bar-link-15975/863642_0_0

 

Stabilizer Bar Link Kit for 1965-92 Multiple Makes 1 Piece

These are so small you could use poly. The other ones that look like a puck, I wouldn't.

 

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 Well glad I checked. I assumed the 521 was similar to the 510 and 620. Not even close. They appear to be small like the ones on the front sway bar links and the tops of shock absorbers. In fact the 520 uses them for that as well. 

 

Here's a swap bar link kit. Do these look like the poly ones you were going to buy??

 

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/sway-bar-link/p/rare-parts-sway-bar-link-15975/863642_0_0

 

Stabilizer Bar Link Kit for 1965-92 Multiple Makes 1 Piece

These are so small you could use poly. The other ones that look like a puck, I wouldn't.

 

 99% sure that's what I used on my 521... been over 4yrs now and 11,000 miles without issue....

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3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 Well glad I checked. I assumed the 521 was similar to the 510 and 620. Not even close. They appear to be small like the ones on the front sway bar links and the tops of shock absorbers. In fact the 520 uses them for that as well. 

 

Here's a swap bar link kit. Do these look like the poly ones you were going to buy??

 

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/sway-bar-link/p/rare-parts-sway-bar-link-15975/863642_0_0

 

Stabilizer Bar Link Kit for 1965-92 Multiple Makes 1 Piece

These are so small you could use poly. The other ones that look like a puck, I wouldn't.

 

thx for checking. i was actually looking at these poly ones... https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/sway-bar-link/p/energy-suspension-red-end-link-grommet-set-9-8105r/353705_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:10574827360&gclid=CjwKCAiAo4OQBhBBEiwA5KWu_1XSleAHpYLLYzBuhrSoi8qpgM0RSeLYElqcB8vraq5_I6PGdufXEhoCL6wQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds. The black ones you sent me are probably the better option since they are rubber.  I would need 8 bushings for the torsion bars right, 4 bushings per side?

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