72240z Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 I would have them semectrical if I did it bu you know he designed, cast and finished those himself? Add in that boss fuel set up, funky throttle set up and all you get is win in my opinion. Quote Link to comment
sick620 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 I would have them semectrical if I did it bu you know he designed, cast and finished those himself? Add in that boss fuel set up, funky throttle set up and all you get is win in my opinion. i love everything about the design other than the shape of the stacks :) Quote Link to comment
72240z Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Ya they are a bit long in the tooth. I bet they arent very beneficial when we compare with the stack talk earlier in the thread. Still though pretty hot Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 The bogg brothers guys who make these manifolds for everyone for all kinds of motors were very specific about the angle of the carbs. They asked me what angle my motor was tilted so they could make sure the carbs were flat. I don't quite understand it either, though. May affect idle? Probably worth sending thise guys am email and just asking. I posted his email in this thread somewhere. seems solid info here.....i cant think of any situation a float bowl that was designed for a certain angle could prevail in prolonged exposure to aggressive/non optimal angles ....to add... d mike said mile long wheelies....well on my atv when i would wheelie for days it would start expelling fuel out of over flows and start to stumble at times.....float bowls and assembly's are designed for specific parameters and its seems to me if you short cut and mount your carbs /ie float bowls at any angle your gonna run into problems....most fuel systems have saftey's designed in them should the carb see a severe angle or the likes... Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 All this PSI talk makes me want a slug.......... i think u mean a snail.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 i think u mean a snail.... No, he just wants a straight pipe. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 i think u mean a snail.... oh yeah......right.........both slimy creatures.......... No, he just wants a straight pipe. I don't get it. edit: oooooh right right right right........slug is a straight snail.........gotcha Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Snails are a slang term for.large turbos in the diesel.world. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 5, 2013 Report Share Posted March 5, 2013 Welp, over a year after I wanted to initially do this swap I've finally email'd Bogg Bros about making me a manifold. They just say it'll be built sometime late next week. Anybody have these running N/A on a L series motor have any impressions? I've been skimming over this thread again and gathering all the information I can. EDIT, Finished reading all of the pages again... so much information. Quote Link to comment
Woody620 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I just read through this whole thing and Im committed to doing this on my Ka24e. I have Gsxr 750 Mikunis (36mm) Ive started making my manifold, and just got my fuel pump, fpr, fuel psi gauge, and narrowband a/f gauge (I will be tuning it with a wideband).just curious, but I can use any 4cyl L series dizzy correct? it will spline into the Ka oil pump correct?also, there are two hoses on top of the carb that im unsure what to do with, its the same as the R1 carbs, I believe vintage rice just has them unhooked? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I just read through this whole thing and Im committed to doing this on my Ka24e. I have Gsxr 750 Mikunis (36mm) Ive started making my manifold, and just got my fuel pump, fpr, fuel psi gauge, narrowband a/f gauge (I will be tuning it with a wideband). just curious, but I can us any 4cyl L series dizzy correct? it will spline into the Ka oil pump correct? also, there are two hoses on top of the carb that im unsure what to do with, its the same as the R1 carbs, I believe vintage rice just has them unhooked? I think you need the truck/ D21 front cover to use the L ignition stuff on the KA. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I think you need the truck/ D21 front cover to use the L ignition stuff on the KA. same cover as the 240sx Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 240sx and d21 single cam KA have the same timing cover. just drop an L20b distributor drive in there, drill and tap 2 new holes for the L-series pedestal to bolt on with, and your set to use whatever L ignition you want. 1 Quote Link to comment
Woody620 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 thank you sir! Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 I just read through this whole thing and Im committed to doing this on my Ka24e. I have Gsxr 750 Mikunis (36mm) Ive started making my manifold, and just got my fuel pump, fpr, fuel psi gauge, and narrowband a/f gauge (I will be tuning it with a wideband). just curious, but I can use any 4cyl L series dizzy correct? it will spline into the Ka oil pump correct? also, there are two hoses on top of the carb that im unsure what to do with, its the same as the R1 carbs, I believe vintage rice just has them unhooked? Theres 4 on top of the r1 carbs. and on those, yes they just stay unhooked Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 same cover as the 240sx 240sx and d21 single cam KA have the same timing cover. just drop an L20b distributor drive in there, drill and tap 2 new holes for the L-series pedestal to bolt on with, and your set to use whatever L ignition you want. Ah my friend was telling me something about the truck cover easier to use for something ... Maybe I misheard or misunderstood. I ordered everything from bogg bros and its shipped ... Quote Link to comment
Woody620 Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Theres 4 on top of the r1 carbs. and on those, yes they just stay unhooked just double checking, heres mine. and heres vintage rice's same thing right? Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 Yup, those are the vents for the top slider. They're left open. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 This setup was so easy. Popped everything together, started it up. I'm using the R1 fuel pump, it seems to work great. It stops pumping if the float bowls are full. Does not need a regulator or return line. I mounted it next to the battery using an ignition coil mount bracket with some neoprene padding. Then I ran the fuel line through the frame rail.( see pic above)its fused and mounted on a relay. Anyone know what kind of fuse should be on there? its a random 15A right now. Carbs immediately started leaking from the float bowls on the first startup.I just put some gasket sealer on this weekend so I could drive and mess with it, but I pulled the carbs back off and cleaned it off.(was a pain...) I ordered some new R1 float bowl o-rings, should arrive sometime next week. Forgot about vintagerice's trick to soaking them in ATF... I wish I had tried that. Throttle response and idle are way better than the DGV, idle stable and smooth down at 600-700rpm now. That's with a 490 lift cam ! Running Bogg bros reccomended vac adv puts it at like 20-30deg advance at idle, runs terrible. I'm just running it plugged and it seems fine. 180 main jet, 4 turns on idle and synced. I'm getting a ton of pinging in the midrange, but above about 3700rpm it pulls nice with no pinging. I lowered the needle seat but it didn't help much and played with the timing that didn't help either. Also I'm getting the popping on decel in the midrange (2000-3500rpm) like vintagerice was talking about. I'm going to go a step up on the mains and pilot jets and see how it does. Syncing the carbs was easy, took about 2 minutes to get it completely even from never doing it before. Has anyone found cheap velocity stacks? I'd like to add some in but the R1 aftermarket are just so expensive. Tempted just to find used stock/OE R1 stacks. All the info in this thread is great. :thumbup: And this carb setup is great. Can't wait to get it dialed in. Not the best run, but I made a video. 2 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 CONGRATS!! Welcome to the R1 Family!! I've just learned to deal with the decel backfire/popping. One day I'll get a WB02 but for now o well. Soaking with ATF didnt help as much as gas did. Seemed like after the seals sat wet with gas for a while they swell way up. Try that. Velocity stacks are REDICULOUS $$$$$ for these. Mine are 2" Exhaust pipe flared, and tapped set screws to hold them on. Works great and under $20 total. L20b sounds strong! :D I like it. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 CONGRATS!! Welcome to the R1 Family!! I've just learned to deal with the decel backfire/popping. One day I'll get a WB02 but for now o well. Soaking with ATF didnt help as much as gas did. Seemed like after the seals sat wet with gas for a while they swell way up. Try that. Velocity stacks are REDICULOUS $$$$$ for these. Mine are 2" Exhaust pipe flared, and tapped set screws to hold them on. Works great and under $20 total. L20b sounds strong! :D I like it. Thankss! I know I'm a bit late in the party but I'm glad I've finally made it. :thumbup: Well I ordered the 17.5 pilot jets as my idle is 4 turns out right now. I'll see how it does. I kinda like the popping, sounds kinda like a sportbike. But the midrange is still lean, hopefully going a tad up on all the jets will get it sorted. I accidentally ripped one of the o-rings while trying to clean the gasket sealer off of them, so no go until the new ones arrive. I forgot about reading your post before, otherwise I would have soaked them in ATF/gas first. :unsure: Gone over this thread for the third or fourth time. I was thinking of doing your exhaust flange method, but I really would like something like T3's velocity stacks... Since there is room, I want to run 1-2" ones under my filter. It feels strong ! Pulls all the way through 4th gear. I can't wait to get it dialed in and see how it cruises. So much nicer to drive with these carbs. It sounds even better in the cabin, the video does not fully pick up the induction noise. especially at higher rpm you just hear the carbs and the exhaust together it just sounds great. The pipercross filter does not muffle the induction too much. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I think midrage is adjusted by raising and lowering the needle position. Idle jet is that.........idle. Main is WOT. Pull the top caps(dont strip the screws they are prone to that) and move the little needle clip to the lowest slot on the needle. That will richen up your midrange I believe. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 27, 2013 Report Share Posted March 27, 2013 @VintageRice, Already raised the needle jets. I meant the mid-RPM range ... I'm getting a lot of pinging there at anything but very light throttle. The top feels a bit lean too, I'm going to go up one step on the mains and go from there. With the idle 3.5 turns out it was backfiring out the carb sometimes, with 4 turns out it feels better so that leads me to believe the pilot needs to be larger. Since you said in a post before that your mixture screws fell out with more than 3.5 turns ... I think its a good idea to richen up the jets. edit, TIP for new guys, buy new float bowl o-rings ! Seriously wish I had a new set to drop in. Especially if your carbs were sitting for a while like mine. YAMAHA part no# 4XV-14562-00-00 Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ yep Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Oh and, bogg bros intake is made to U67 spec. Port match is sexy... Anyone want to sell me stock R1 velocity stacks for cheap? :geek: Quote Link to comment
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