Drummerboy4as Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 The only proper way to read plugs like that is to make sure the plugs were brand new to begin with. Otherwise there's no way to determine if the color came from the WOT pull or from when you were trying to start it when you first installed the carbs. Quote Link to comment
Logical1 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Plugs look good, Does it pull like it should? (looks like it!) Does the engine 'feel' good? Does she start right up and shut right off? If so then I'd say your work & R1 carb setup is full of WIN! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 The only proper way to read plugs like that is to make sure the plugs were brand new to begin with. Otherwise there's no way to determine if the color came from the WOT pull or from when you were trying to start it when you first installed the carbs. Good point. Didn't think of that. Plugs look good, Does it pull like it should? (looks like it!) Does the engine 'feel' good? Does she start right up and shut right off? If so then I'd say your work & R1 carb setup is full of WIN! :thumbup: Yes, yes, and yes! Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 does anyone have one of these? preferbaly in the western wa area, im in a time crunch and dont want to wait for shipping! Let me know Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 does anyone have one of these? preferbaly in the western wa area, im in a time crunch and dont want to wait for shipping! Let me know Honestly If I were you I'd consider using the setup I did for couplers. It's crazy strong. I can sit the and yank on those carbs up and down and the whole car moves. I used gas filler neck tubing from napa and cut my own lengths. And stainless t-bolt clamps. Works killer. It Just seems like the stock R1 boots are kinda weak. Plus with the home made jobbers theres alot more room for error. Little more forgiving on angle differences. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 I used radiator hose for my carb to engine mount, and its real sturdy, I need a stock air box boot for my charge pipes,, there all I can find that will fit inthere with the 2 1/2in intercooler pipe Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 aaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i c Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 nevermind, intercooler couplers will work as well. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 If you need some stainless t-bolt clamps for those couplers I have some. I can check the size. Got them for my carbs but were too big(false advertisement)(stupid ebay) Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Good news! Carbs are back together, car starts and runs, new fan kicks on and it is runnning rich but not all the way rich. No drive yet I am having doubts about the clutch. float bowls still leak but the cracked one leaks the least(?), so I'll let them sit a couple days and see if they seal up. I has video My settings are about 2.5mm main, #20 pilots, 3 turns out on the screws. It could be leaner, but a good start. Rice you are pro'ly just about right with your setup. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Nice! that af gauge would piss me off though lol Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Sweet, looks like that gauge works pretty well. Right on! Quote Link to comment
DADZSUN Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I'm really enjoying how my l16 is running but I've decided I want more, something similar to you vintage and slingshot. I'm picking up a ka24e next week for a winter swap. I'm planning to run the dizzy and mechanical fuel pump off my L16. A buddy is telling me to run injection but the r1 was so easy to setup and go, not to mention the nostalgia and sound, and possibly more power than injection? 1 Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 ^^ I don't know about more power(injected v carbs). Cheaper and less wires than ITB. Runs just like an L. definitly fun to figure out. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Sweet, looks like that gauge works pretty well. Right on! I know, I know... I need to drive it. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 I drove the beast for about 1/2 hour. Drives good. I "accidently" spun the tires at a stoplight. Feels nice and I think if I can lean it out a little I can get more power out of it . :thumbup: Still a few things to finish up like the exhaust, ect. Video soon. Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Sweet dude! feels good, yet frightening the first time you drive it doesn't it. LOL "This is awesome!! Please don't break, please don't break, please don't break....." Quote Link to comment
VintageRice Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 I spy a snail in your bay. :) :) :) We need to have another north ender meet when yours is done. Dueling R1 510's ! ! Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 HELL YA!! How did you git your manifold so short? Did you post pics of it? Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 HOE LEE SHIIT!! This car is so fast, way faster than I thought it would be..... Almost faster than I wanted it to be. Is that possible? I have to ease on the gas and let off the clutch gentley so the tires don't spin (could be the cheap tires). It has a lot of torque at the bottom end. I removed one of the o-rings I am useing to adjust the needle, so now there's only one. That made a lot of differance, I can tell because the butt lice in the seat of my pants where holding on for dear life. It is still rich but getting closer to the top of the rich section. I will take out the last o-ring and see what that dose. Small adjusments make a big differance. Quote Link to comment
slingshot532 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I spy a snail in your bay. :) :) :) We need to have another north ender meet when yours is done. Dueling R1 510's ! ! I wish I lived closer, I would love to see your cars. 1 Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I spy a snail in your bay. :) :) :) We need to have another north ender meet when yours is done. Dueling R1 510's ! ! Yes! i was so bummed when my car broke down before the last one! We should get another one goin for sometime after canby end of june, or july HELL YA!! How did you git your manifold so short? Did you post pics of it? Check out my build thread, theres a few pics in there. Quote Link to comment
spudly13 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 it runs! just fired it up. started right up with a little gas down each carb. its leakin all over the place though... it sounds like everyones had that problem?? just the seals being dried out for so long? replace them or let them sit with gas in there? it sounds good, hard to tell what it will sound like in the end though, open turbo and all. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 New plugs would work for a good read. Or you could take for a nice long drive to clean them. Lots of long hard 3rd and 4th gear pulls out on the highway. Then clutch ign. off and coast to a stop. A quick 1/2 won't do it. Wide band is the way to keep yout piston tops in good shape and worth the money. It also points the way to optimum performance. Try to get a high 14 to one cruise ratio for maximum economy. Quote Link to comment
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