ariascarlos1990 Posted December 4, 2008 Report Share Posted December 4, 2008 Did that... posted about this on the first page of this thread where I guessed according to the Color Code for the Wiring Diagram that the W/B meant White/Black and not White/Blue. See picture below... Weird I have white/red and a solid yellow wire going to my stock alt. plug. its not a white/black like you guys say. is this still the same? Quote Link to comment
Mike Phillips Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 L - light and will go to your lamp circuit on the dash. Connect the L terminal to your white black on the bottom of the T connector(the one that previously went into the stock alternator) on your harness. Pulled the connector off the alternator to double check I had it wired correctly and found I had the White/Black wire connected to the F Terminal. Cut this and then re-wired the White/Black wire to the L Terminal and now the CHG light is lighting up when the key is switched to the on position and then goes off shortly after the engine starts. Everything seems to be working perfectly and normal. Thanks everyone for seeing me through to success. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Glad to hear you got it working! I swear I sincerely thought this was a easy swap. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Glad to hear you got it working! I swear I sincerely thought this was a easy swap. It is but, when your wires are wrong it gets a little tricky. and your like wtf! :D Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=572 Mike Im confused by this staement you wrote "Pulled the connector off the alternator to double check I had it wired correctly and found I had the White/Black wire connected to the F Terminal. Cut this and then re-wired the White/Black wire to the L Terminal" in this diagram i sent is shows to short F&L which is the wht/blk&wht/red wires. Isnt this what you did in the first place. Unless the Aftermarket volt reg had the color codes off. This is why alway go by the engine harness side of the connector.. this was a great write up. You should condense it down using the 620 wire diagram and send it to Mklotz to put on the olddatsuns.com site exact part#s everything Edited December 5, 2008 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Yes great documentation. Thanks, this should help alot of people. If you can condense it into a couple of posts in a new thread, I can make the condensed thread a sticky in electrical. Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 That would be sweet Quote Link to comment
Mike Phillips Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I'll put together a concise step-by-step how-to with photos and parts list and also credit to everyone that contributed. Have to do it over the weekend sometime though... I'm buffing out a car just like this 1938 Packard all day tomorrow in Palm Springs, (driving my Datsun there of course) Then putting brakes in the Mother-in-Law's Buick on Sunday... Will try to put it together Sunday night. Again, thanks for all the help... and will try to get to banzai510's questions tonight... Mike Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Sounds good. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted June 30, 2011 Report Share Posted June 30, 2011 Looks like I'll be giving this a shot this weekend. Thanks everyone who contributed to this write-up, very detailed. Quote Link to comment
cashi123 Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Assuming my assumptions above are correct, here's the modified Connector Block to plug into the other half in the wiring harness. Question where does the white & blue wire go connected, and where the black wire does go connected. I’m doing the same conversion on my Datsun 620 1974 but with a different alternator from a 1983 datsun 200sx 60m amps, I got almost everything figurate out for except this 2 wires, can you please help me? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 SIMPLE, install your 83 60amper IR tyep alternator go by the photo.Make it just like above . I would solder it and use heat shrink myself so it looks cleaner. Thats it. plug it in. Question where does the white & blue wire go connected, and where the black wire does go connected?????????????????????????????????????????????????? It DOES NOT get connected just like the photo. yoU CAN CUT THEM OFF FLUSH ONCE ITS WORKING RIGHT. Also just to let you know most trucks had 35amp smaller alternator you you might get close to hitting the idler arm and may need a shorter belt. Quote Link to comment
cashi123 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 SIMPLE, install your 83 60amper IR tyep alternator go by the photo.Make it just like above . I would solder it and use heat shrink myself so it looks cleaner. Thats it. plug it in. Question where does the white & blue wire go connected, and where the black wire does go connected?????????????????????????????????????????????????? It DOES NOT get connected just like the photo. yoU CAN CUT THEM OFF FLUSH ONCE ITS WORKING RIGHT. Also just to let you know most trucks had 35amp smaller alternator you you might get close to hitting the idler arm and may need a shorter belt. thank you brother that help a lot! Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 I'm planning on doing this soon, so I started gathering parts. My saturn alternator has a different pigtail. its oval, the wire, according to NAPA, are as follows: P(ST), L, I(IG), & S. Can someone tell me which one would be field? or should I go back to the yard and get a different alternator, with the square plug. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 didnt 510 Rob post this in the HoW TO SECTION?????????? Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 never mind, figured it out. Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I did the Saturn alternator swap saturday, and since then I have developed a draw on the battery. I followed the diagram that hainz has posted in several different threads. but I may have gotten some wires crossed. I am a lil ignorant in the ways on the charging system, had I jumped the wrong terminals at the voltage regulator would that cause a draw? To clarify: - saturn alternator swap - 13 volts when running loaded/unloaded - If the car sits for a few hours, no start (acts as if battery is dead) - push start the car, 5 min drive, turn it off, it starts right back up - battery terminals are tight lemme know what you guys think, thanks! EDIT: I wired it wrong, I used the L and IG terminals on the saturn plug because those were the only two wires in the pigtail. So "Sense" isn't hooked up. but IG is hookup up, I hope I didn't screw something up!!!! EDIT 2: So I can't figure how "IG" doesn't have to be wired. from what I understand thats what tells the regulator to turn on, so how could you not hook it up. I think I'm confusing my self more and more the more I read. Quote Link to comment
LenRobertson Posted February 4, 2013 Report Share Posted February 4, 2013 I'll probably add to your confusion, but maybe my post will act to bump your thread and someone will post the right answer. I put a 280Z IR alt in my 510, not a Saturn alt. When I plugged in the jumper wires for the voltage regulator (I removed the reg.), there was a spark like something drawing juice. It turned out to be the relay for the electric choke. On some Datsuns, wiring around the voltage regulator gives full-time power to the choke relay. I have no idea if yours does this or not, but it is something to check. Try unplugging the wires to the choke relay in the dark and see if you get a small spark. I ended up leaving my relay unplugged and ran a jumper wire from the + on the coil to the wire into the electric choke body. Len Quote Link to comment
'70dime Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Well I figured my issue out (although I still need to re wire the pigtail). It was an unfortunate coincidence that I left a switch on the day after the swap all things are good. Quote Link to comment
datsun 160J SSS Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 good info Quote Link to comment
Killshoot5 Posted February 25, 2018 Report Share Posted February 25, 2018 Just did the Saturn swap using all ur info. Made it easy. Great write up. Thanks for all the information. 1 Quote Link to comment
Soundline Posted May 3, 2018 Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 I just ordered all the parts. I did opt for a Denso Reman 120 amp version instead. For about $200 there’s a 200 amp version of the same alternator. You know... in case you want a 50” light bar and some siiiiiiiiick beats... 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 a truck 620 is going to be tight fit!!!!!!! and 120amps?must be a big one. I would just stick with stock myself 1 Quote Link to comment
Soundline Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 It showed up and... it’s... umm... large. I’ll need to customize a hard pipe for my lower rad hose. There’s just no other way. So I’ll be putting in one out of a 510 that I think does 60 amp to try to get to Canaby. Quote Link to comment
Shwifty Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 On 12/1/2008 at 7:23 PM, Mike Phillips said: Assuming my assumptions above are correct, here's the modified Connector Block to plug into the other half in the wiring harness. Did it work I have same plug to rewire Quote Link to comment
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