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Saturn Alternator - How To Wire In?


Mike Phillips

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Did that... posted about this on the first page of this thread where I guessed according to the Color Code for the Wiring Diagram that the W/B meant White/Black and not White/Blue. See picture below...

 

1974DatsunTruckVoltageRegConnectorBlock.jpg

 

Weird I have white/red and a solid yellow wire going to my stock alt. plug. its not a white/black like you guys say. is this still the same?

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L - light and will go to your lamp circuit on the dash. Connect the L terminal to your white black on the bottom of the T connector(the one that previously went into the stock alternator) on your harness.

 

Pulled the connector off the alternator to double check I had it wired correctly and found I had the White/Black wire connected to the F Terminal.

 

Cut this and then re-wired the White/Black wire to the L Terminal and now the CHG light is lighting up when the key is switched to the on position and then goes off shortly after the engine starts.

 

Everything seems to be working perfectly and normal.

 

Thanks everyone for seeing me through to success.

 

:)

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http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=572

 

Mike Im confused by this staement you wrote

"Pulled the connector off the alternator to double check I had it wired correctly and found I had the White/Black wire connected to the F Terminal.

Cut this and then re-wired the White/Black wire to the L Terminal"

 

in this diagram i sent is shows to short F&L which is the wht/blk&wht/red wires. Isnt this what you did in the first place.

Unless the Aftermarket volt reg had the color codes off. This is why alway go by the engine harness side of the connector..

 

 

this was a great write up. You should condense it down using the 620 wire diagram and send it to Mklotz to put on the olddatsuns.com site

 

exact part#s everything

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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Yes great documentation. Thanks, this should help alot of people.

If you can condense it into a couple of posts in a new thread, I can make the condensed thread a sticky in electrical.

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I'll put together a concise step-by-step how-to with photos and parts list and also credit to everyone that contributed.

 

Have to do it over the weekend sometime though...

 

I'm buffing out a car just like this 1938 Packard all day tomorrow in Palm Springs, (driving my Datsun there of course)

 

1938PackardTouringSedanModel16031.jpg

 

 

Then putting brakes in the Mother-in-Law's Buick on Sunday...

 

Will try to put it together Sunday night.

 

Again, thanks for all the help... and will try to get to banzai510's questions tonight...

 

Mike

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  • 2 years later...
  • 11 months later...

Assuming my assumptions above are correct, here's the modified Connector Block to plug into the other half in the wiring harness.

 

1974DatsunTruckVoltageRegConnectorBlock.jpg

Question where does the white & blue wire go connected, and where the black wire does go connected. I’m doing the same conversion on my Datsun 620 1974 but with a different alternator from a 1983 datsun 200sx 60m amps, I got almost everything figurate out for except this 2 wires, can you please help me?

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SIMPLE, install your 83 60amper IR tyep alternator

 

go by the photo.Make it just like above . I would solder it and use heat shrink myself so it looks cleaner.

 

Thats it. plug it in.

 

 

Question where does the white & blue wire go connected, and where the black wire does go connected?????????????????????????????????????????????????? It DOES NOT get connected just like the photo. yoU CAN CUT THEM OFF FLUSH ONCE ITS WORKING RIGHT.

 

Also just to let you know most trucks had 35amp smaller alternator you you might get close to hitting the idler arm and may need a shorter belt.

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SIMPLE, install your 83 60amper IR tyep alternator

 

go by the photo.Make it just like above . I would solder it and use heat shrink myself so it looks cleaner.

 

Thats it. plug it in.

 

 

Question where does the white & blue wire go connected, and where the black wire does go connected?????????????????????????????????????????????????? It DOES NOT get connected just like the photo. yoU CAN CUT THEM OFF FLUSH ONCE ITS WORKING RIGHT.

 

Also just to let you know most trucks had 35amp smaller alternator you you might get close to hitting the idler arm and may need a shorter belt.

 

thank you brother that help a lot!

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  • 7 months later...

I'm planning on doing this soon, so I started gathering parts. My saturn alternator has a different pigtail. its oval, the wire, according to NAPA, are as follows: P(ST), L, I(IG), & S. Can someone tell me which one would be field? or should I go back to the yard and get a different alternator, with the square plug.

 

Thanks.

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I did the Saturn alternator swap saturday, and since then I have developed a draw on the battery. I followed the diagram that hainz has posted in several different threads. but I may have gotten some wires crossed. I am a lil ignorant in the ways on the charging system, had I jumped the wrong terminals at the voltage regulator would that cause a draw?

 

To clarify:

- saturn alternator swap

- 13 volts when running loaded/unloaded

- If the car sits for a few hours, no start (acts as if battery is dead)

- push start the car, 5 min drive, turn it off, it starts right back up

- battery terminals are tight

 

lemme know what you guys think, thanks!

 

EDIT: I wired it wrong, I used the L and IG terminals on the saturn plug because those were the only two wires in the pigtail. So "Sense" isn't hooked up. but IG is hookup up, I hope I didn't screw something up!!!!

 

EDIT 2: So I can't figure how "IG" doesn't have to be wired. from what I understand thats what tells the regulator to turn on, so how could you not hook it up.

 

I think I'm confusing my self more and more the more I read.

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I'll probably add to your confusion, but maybe my post will act to bump your thread and someone will post the right answer. I put a 280Z IR alt in my 510, not a Saturn alt. When I plugged in the jumper wires for the voltage regulator (I removed the reg.), there was a spark like something drawing juice. It turned out to be the relay for the electric choke. On some Datsuns, wiring around the voltage regulator gives full-time power to the choke relay. I have no idea if yours does this or not, but it is something to check. Try unplugging the wires to the choke relay in the dark and see if you get a small spark. I ended up leaving my relay unplugged and ran a jumper wire from the + on the coil to the wire into the electric choke body.

 

Len

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 years later...
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I just ordered all the parts. I did opt for a Denso Reman 120 amp version instead. For about $200 there’s a 200 amp version of the same alternator. You know... in case you want a 50” light bar and some siiiiiiiiick beats...

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  • 3 weeks later...

It showed up and... it’s... umm... large.

 

I’ll need to customize a hard pipe for my lower rad hose. There’s just no other way.

 

So I’ll be putting in one out of a 510 that I think does 60 amp to try to get to Canaby.

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  • 8 months later...
On 12/1/2008 at 7:23 PM, Mike Phillips said:

Assuming my assumptions above are correct, here's the modified Connector Block to plug into the other half in the wiring harness.

 

1974DatsunTruckVoltageRegConnectorBlock.jpg

Did it work I have same plug to rewire

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