Jump to content

Saturn Alternator - How To Wire In?


Mike Phillips

Recommended Posts

As I said a few posts up, I got mine at a local auto parts store. Tell them you need the 4 pin plug for a Delco CS style alternator. At Baxter's Auto Parts in Portland, it was on the shelf next to the same plug for other make alternators.

  • Like 1
Link to post
  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Just called my friendly NAPA counterman and he said bring the Alternator down and the plug I currently have and he can look up the correct one and order it for me.

 

Shazam!

 

Who would a though it could be that easy...

 

Duh?

 

:D

  • Like 1
Link to post
As I said a few posts up, I got mine at a local auto parts store. Tell them you need the 4 pin plug for a Delco CS style alternator. At Baxter's Auto Parts in Portland, it was on the shelf next to the same plug for other make alternators.

 

Thanks!

 

Must have missed that while focusing the other issues...

 

Need a new brain, wonder if NAPA can get that?

 

:D

  • Like 1
Link to post

Score!

 

 

NAPA had the right part in stock, $12.00

 

NAPA Part Number: EC101

 

NAPAEC101.jpg

 

 

Going to go re-install the alternator and hook everything up then cross my fingers and fire her up.

 

:P

  • Like 1
Link to post

Man!! Finally some solid info! Slodat man if you get some extra time you should draw up a little diagram and have one of them mods make a sticky outta that! I racked my brain for 2 days over that stupid plug. I had no idea you needed a different style.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Me neither. I ran 12V to the big lug (didn't have a connector).

 

I also found out there are other cases. My buddy's died last weekend and it turns out there are small differences depending on the year of alternator. I'll have him take comparison pic's when he takes mine back out.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Have everything installed Test drove the truck and so far so good....

 

Best thing is.. now the Blinkers work, the Back-up lights work in fact everything works!

 

Haven't got a volt gauge yet but I will.

 

Question? When I put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position, the only light coming on is the oil light.

 

The Charge light does not come on? I thought I read somewhere that the Charge light on the dash should come on and then go off after the truck starts?

 

Is this correct?

  • Like 1
Link to post

The funny part...

 

After I hooked everything up I started the engine and was going to let it run for a few minutes to check things over and make sure everything was working. I gave the gas pedal a couple of pumps, turned the key and the engine fired right up and then idled. I got out of the truck to inspect the alternator belt as the engine was running and the engine just up and died.

 

I thought dang! something electrical burnt up and that's why the engine must have died. I quickly inspected all the wiring components that I had been working with and even felt them to see if anything felt hot or was smoking or even melting but everything looked normal. So I tried to start the engine again and nothing, Nada, zilch.

 

I thought great... somethings burnt up and now the ignition isn't getting any power, I must have done something wrong.

 

Then just for fun I grabbed can of starting fluid and sprayed some down the carb and hit the key and she fired right up and then died.

 

I looked at the gas gauge and it read empty.

 

Previously, the gas gauge hadn't been working very well just like none of the electrical components hadn't been working very well so I went back to where the gas filler neck was and removed the gas cap and then shook the truck and then listened for the sound of gas sloshing around and it was as quiet as could be.

 

Went to the local gas station, filled up a spare gas can, poured some into the gas tank and then hit the key and after few cranks she fired right up and idled right down.

 

Panicked for nothing.

 

:D

  • Like 1
Link to post
2eDeYe;102516'']I also found out there are other cases. My buddy's died last weekend and it turns out there are small differences depending on the year of alternator. I'll have him take comparison pic's when he takes mine back out.

 

Yeah, from the Bluebirds mail list:

BTW, Saturns of that vintage use a CS121, which has a smaller diameter case and stator than a CS130 but has the same electronics.

 

Diagram and info of CS-130 alternator:

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm

  • Like 1
Link to post
Yeah, from the Bluebirds mail list:

 

 

Diagram and info of CS-130 alternator:

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm

 

That's interesting...

 

The ones we have are the same case size but the casting is a bit different. Mine also says AC Delco and his says nothing. Mine was from a 91 and his was pulled from a 95.

  • Like 1
Link to post

Question? When I put the key into the ignition and turn it to the On position, the only light coming on is the Oil Light.

 

The Charge light does not come on? I thought I read somewhere that the Charge light on the dash should come on and then go off after the truck starts?

 

Is this correct?

 

Can someone with a similar truck check to see what they see when the turn the key to the "On" position?

 

:confused:

  • Like 1
Link to post
yup my charge light turns on when I turn the key into the on position but, then turns off after I start it.

 

That's what I was afraid of...

 

Back to the drawing board...

 

Ugh...

  • Like 1
Link to post

Do you really care if the alt light doesnt come ON?

 

run a VOLT meter and if its good then dont worry about it. Like a GM one wire units

 

Mike

This was a very good write up you did.

 

I have a NEW one of these in my attic. But would have to ck if it used the T connector or is just a one wire hook up.

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
Link to post

I ended up using a 200sx alt after giving up on the saturn alt my alt is working fine, but my charge light does not work either, it may have a blown bulb, I dunno nor do I really care to much.

Link to post

Do you really care if the alt light doesnt come ON?

 

No, not really just want to know nothing bad or wrong is taking place. I'll get the Volt Gauge next week. Have a side job this Saturday that makes me some toy money. :)

 

 

Mike

This was a very good write up you did.

 

Thank you, I always appreciate the help others provide and try to do the same myself. Here's the most complicated write-up I've ever done, it's kind of PhotoPost and vBulletin specific but will work with most forums.

 

 

I have a NEW one of these in my attic. But would have to ck if it used the T connector or is just a one wire hook up.

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/1

 

Nice looking unit. Reads like it's a one wire hook-up.

 

I ran a 90 amp one wire GM alternator in this for 20 years, never had single problem and never had a dead battery out in the middle of the lake either and with 12.5:1 compression you always need a strong battery to turn the beast over.

 

270SangerDragBoat.jpg

Edited by Mike Phillips
Link to post
Mike. Put a voltmeter on your battery with the truck running and report back here what you found. You can use any multimeter for this.

 

2eDeYe;102809'']Check the bulb in the dash?

 

Will do when I get off work... Will also check to see if there's power coming out of the yellow wire where I cut the T-Connector off and spliced in the NAPA EC101 Connector.

 

 

:)

Link to post
Mike. Put a voltmeter on your battery with the truck running and report back here what you found. You can use any multimeter for this.

 

I fried my multimeter somehow. Took the truck to NAPA and they tested my alternator with engine on and with engine on and bright lights on and the battery is being charged at 14.4 volts according to their tester.

 

2eDeYe;102809'']Check the bulb in the dash?

 

Bought all new bulbs, problem is new bulbs, even though the correct design and part number they don't fit snug. But when installed that didn't fix the problem.

 

I'll test the bulb itself with a wire at the battery to see if it actually lights up.

 

:)

Link to post

I fried my multimeter somehow???????

Is this a Anolog mutimeter? did you measure amps and had it one the wrong setting. I know the old type meters will blow a fuse or fry the shunt resisitor.

ON old Simpson analog meters you aways measure AMPS from the highest setting then work down.

measuring AC on resisitance scale on Analog meter will break them also.

 

If this is just a cheap digital meter and was set to volt I dont know why it would break.As most are protected.

 

I have not done a IR alternator swap myself. But the drawing I gave is based on the later nissan alternator nd the T connector still plugs in the back.

go to the Dime Quarterly website elelctrical FAQ IR alternator swap

 

I seen some where somebody put a diode in line with the IGN light. But i never really seen anybody do this with a 510.

 

THE ALTERNATORS:

The OLD (externally regulated Alternator) had the "N" and "F" connected by the plastic "T" connector.

"N" Neutral was connected by a Y (yellow) wire.

[This is the top of the "T" connector]

"F" Field was connected by a W/B (White, black stripe) wire.

[This is the stem of the "T" connector]

The NEW IR ALT (internal regulated alternator) will have two connections, also in a T configuration like the old unit.

 

"S" Sense is connected to the battery (direct +12 Volts)

[This is the top of the "T" connector]

"L" Lamp is connected to the Warning lamp light. This connection

has TWO functions. By Sensing the circuit is turned on when the ignition is, it will energize the alternator. SECOND: when the alternator FAILS, and the engine is running, it will GROUND this connection - providing a ground path to turn on the "ALT" warning lamp. (you should see the "ALT" lamp glow when the ignition is first turned on, before starting the car).

HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:

Before tossing that old voltage regulator into the trash bin cut OFF the connector block.

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)

Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

 

(This the wiring at the HARNESS, compare it to the regulator wiring, both should be the same - but some replacement units did not follow the color code).

 

Plug the connector back onto the wiring harness. Quick, simple, painless to swap back if the need every arises.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
Link to post

 

HOW TO MODIFY THE WIRING:

 

Before tossing that old voltage regulator into the trash bin cut OFF the connector block.

 

Splice the W (white) wire to the Y one. (Sense circuit)

Splice the W/R (white/red) wire to the W/B one. (Lamp circuit)

 

 

Did that... posted about this on the first page of this thread where I guessed according to the Color Code for the Wiring Diagram that the W/B meant White/Black and not White/Blue. See picture below...

 

1974DatsunTruckVoltageRegConnectorBlock.jpg

Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.