A new beginning

[Ooph!]

Ok, I've been lurking for ten years I think its time to start a thread about my truck.

Its a 1973 model that I bought in 1979 from Dave Hart Datsun in Watsonville California.

Its been a lot of places with me over the years and I had a lot of fun with it but I guess I moved on and it became neglected.

I retired recently and I'm determined to get it into better shape so I recently began hunting for parts and found out, damn some of this is getting hard to find!

So I found there are parts in Japan and as an experiment I tried the White Rabbit buying service to get the water crossover tube that wraps around the front of the engine. Buying service was great just had to wait awhile for it to get here.

 

 

How it used to be circa 1984

 

 

 

 

[wayno]

That tube looks weird, what engine is it for?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I have that pipe on my 72 521

[wayno]

27 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I have that pipe on my 72 521

It has 2 outlets at the intake manifold end, what do they both go to?

[banzai510(hainz)]

the left side come from the water inlet below the fuel pump  then goes over to the thermostat  where a U shaped hose comes from the lower stathousing to the pipe then to the intake manifold

there was 2 versions  1 with the U shaped hose from the lower stat and 1 that did not have it.

so some lower state L16 housing will have this threated hole  for a nipple for the U shaped hose/ some don't you need to know which to order.  I think I hae the part numbers some where. But I also order new hex ring for a new temp sender  as old ones are impossible to take out w/o cranking the housing

[Ooph!]

30 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

the left side come from the water inlet below the fuel pump  then goes over to the thermostat  where a U shaped hose comes from the lower stathousing to the pipe then to the intake manifold

there was 2 versions  1 with the U shaped hose from the lower stat and 1 that did not have it.

so some lower state L16 housing will have this threated hole  for a nipple for the U shaped hose/ some don't you need to know which to order.  I think I hae the part numbers some where. But I also order new hex ring for a new temp sender  as old ones are impossible to take out w/o cranking the housing

 

L16 engine

Exactly like hainz describes, I found the info on the www.carpartsmanual.com site it had part numbers and the build dates.

Edited March 17, 2020 by Ooph!

[wayno]

Well the L16 on the 521 didn't have a bypass, I assumed the L16 on the 620 was likely the same hainz, that "T" in that line is near the intake manifold, it is not even close to the thermostat housing where the bypass is, that "T" is near the carb end of the pipe.

 

Here are the 2 lines I have, the one with the "T" in it is for the bypass, that "T" is near the front of the head, the other line without the "T" is for an L16 with dual SUs, I do not have an L16 line without the "T" for the down draft carb version without the bypass, if this guy has an L16 without a bypass what is the "T" for, is it a pollution control thing?

Edited March 17, 2020 by wayno

[Ooph!]

Maybe I messed up I have to find the old unit I'll take a picture of it later today if I can find it

[Ooph!]

  its a match, but it seems Instagram has become Instafail the picture isn't showing up for me, edited and used another host

 

Edited March 17, 2020 by Ooph!

[Ooph!]

I could have patched the old one but figured there were other holes just waiting to pop

 

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, wayno said:

Well the L16 on the 521 didn't have a bypass, I assumed the L16 on the 620 was likely the same hainz, that "T" in that line is near the intake manifold, it is not even close to the thermostat housing where the bypass is, that "T" is near the carb end of the pipe.

 

Here are the 2 lines I have, the one with the "T" in it is for the bypass, that "T" is near the front of the head, the other line without the "T" is for an L16 with dual SUs, I do not have an L16 line without the "T" for the down draft carb version without the bypass, if this guy has an L16 without a bypass what is the "T" for, is it a pollution control thing?

 

The later 620 L16 did have the thermostat bypass but it's on the outside of the thermostat housing (away from the head) not at the front like all the others.

[wayno]

I learned something new today.

I have never seen one like that before, but I don't pay much attention to the 620 except for the ones with the L20b which is the bypass i use and the 1973/74 Datsun 620 power brake booster as I use that on my 521 trucks if available, otherwise I use the early Ford Courier booster.

I didn't know the early 620 had a bypass, I had to draw a line somewhere on owning Datsuns, I would likely be in the loony bin now if I had collected 620s also, I have had as many as 13 Datsuns in the past, I am down to 8 Datsuns  and a Mini.

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

The 2 pictures by Oomp

mine are exactly the same but 1 didn’t have the outlet but identical

Im sure the later water line versions of the L20 s use a version also. I’m just not a later 620 expert on what they had as I know the later Datsun has the stove pipe headed manifolds so no waterline is needed 

[]2eDeYe]

 

19 hours ago, Ooph! said:

Ok, I've been lurking for ten years I think its time to start a thread about my truck.

 

 

Ratsun, longer than 10 years... 

 

Checks sign up date...

 

JOINED

January 24, 2007

 

... wow... time flies 😄

[Ooph!]

Not from the Datsun.

Magging the crank from my Chevy dirt racer today.

 

Edited May 14, 2022 by Ooph!

[Ooph!]

The entire chevy engine is apart now and found a few interesting items, cam bearing is dimpled.

 

[datzenmike]

I've seen pitted rod bearings. The cause was contaminated oil or lack of oil changes. These are too symmetrical, too perfectly round, like they were put there. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

We found out the hard way why not to use aluminum bearings in a racing engine. They "muddle" under heavy stress and high RPMs will actually chip them. The muddling we found looks similar to the cam bearings in your pic, but I agree with Mike. They are way to consistent.

 

It almost looks like there was a casting flaw that is now showing with a bit of wear.

[Ooph!]

The motor came with the car and I think its a JR motorsports motor out of business now, who ever put it together used regular P bearings not racing types. I had thought either a defect or they were put there its on both halves.

Edited May 18, 2022 by Ooph!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

P series are tri-metal. Better than aluminum.

[Ooph!]

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

P series are tri-metal. Better than aluminum.

 

Might be aluminum I haven't pulled them yet the main and rods were regular

[yenpit]

I was taught many years ago in the British parts industry, that in ANY performance application, you should use a tri-metal bearing.  For standard street use, a bi-metal bearing was just fine.  With that knowledge & meeting MANY engine builders over the years, specializing in British, I marketed the tri-metal Vandervell Bearings (now out of business) and sold THOUSANDS of sets!  😎 

[datzenmike]

My old '68 510 had worn through to the copper. Or bronze? on the bottom of the rod shells.

[Ooph!]

Weighing and grinding here and there to get them all within .5 gram, they were about 2.5 grams from low to high

[Ooph!]

I have been telling myself I'll start working on the pickup any day now.

I finally looked at it to see why one of the hood hinges had broken and in the process found a little tidbit.

Under the windshield there are small oval holes, a couple of them has what looks like a plastic drain the part number from www.carpartsmanual.com is 66820-B5000.

A casual search shows nothing available,  are they needed? forget about them?