R4wb33 Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 I recently purchased a what the title says is a 1968 520. I’ve been doing a lot of reading and I think I’ve confused myself more than anything lol. I’ve found another truck for parts that the tag on the door jamb says 12/70. I’m just wondering if it’s working getting for parts or are the trucks in the weird year ranges that the doors and fenders don’t swap out? My truck is the tan tan one and the one I can also get is the blue one. 4 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 The '68 is a last year 520 and has a J13 engine. The blue one is a PL521, can't be older than '70 and the first year the L16 engine was used. There really isn't much you can use between these two. 3 Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Welcome to the Datsun Brain Trust. What part of OK are you in? Keith 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Thanks for the fast reply. I’m in the Ardmore area it’s south central part of the state. 1 Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Please keep posting photos of the 520. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Welcome No sheet metal in front of the windshield will interchange, the doors will not likely interchange either, but that is easy enough to check, if the locking mechanisms in the door are the same they will interchange, the photos below are what I am talking about. The boxes will interchange but you will need to use whatever taillights are on the box your going to use unless you cut the mounts off and weld them on the box you want to use, there are slight differences in the boxes, 520 have reflectors on the rear corners and the gas door is a slightly different shape. Personally I like the 521 better as the engine bay is larger, but I have a 520 myself. 3 Quote Link to comment
wakemaniac Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Nice 520 ! There is a lot of info here on 520/521. Started from 0 as well 3 years ago ! I am building a 520 and have a 521 for parts. I recommend you wait and find a 520 for parts just so you have more compatible parts like Wayno said ! The frame is almost the same though...just need to move back the 2 front cab mounts about 2in. since the nose is shorter on the 520. Everything else is the same... 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Usually people take parts from the 520 to put on the 521, like the metal dash top, metal interior door pulls, metal rimmed parcel tray, one piece driveline... Nothing body-wise is a useful swap if you're trying to stay original. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 You can swap the one piece 520 driveshaft for the 521's 2 piece if lowering. 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 Here are some more current pictures of the truck from today. It’s going to be alittle bit before I get started on it. In the process of having a shop built. It appears to be pretty complete minus a drivers side fender emblem and the windshield is cracked. It’s missing a vin plate in the door jamb if these trucks have one. They told me it ran when parked but I’m not sure how long ago that was either. 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 22, 2020 Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 That vin plate might be a concern when going to register... They were riveted into the drivers door jab.... that's the one they will want to check.... It's also in the engine bay but that's not a vin tag.... you should also be able to find the number on the frame.... passenger side frame rail... on top behind the front control arms.... 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2020 I do have a good title for it. 3 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 24, 2020 Report Share Posted January 24, 2020 Looks really quite straight aside from the rust! 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Tried to get it started this evening just to see and I think my starter is bad but it was cool seeing it have some power for the first time. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Have you tried jumping the starter with a screw driver? 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Yes that’s what makes me think it’s bad. I got one spin out of it that just sounded like a free spin then it would never do it again. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Battery has to be fully charged and the battery cable ends at the posts clean in good condition (no bolts, nails or screws in them) and tight. The other ends The ground on the block and the positive on the starter must also be clean and tight. We're only talking 12 volts here. Even the slightest resistance will degrade performance. When it stopped turning, was there a chattering noise from the solenoid?? 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 All I get now is just a small spark when I cross them no movement or sounds at all. I pretty sure I had good connection as all the headlights, taillights, blinkers and lights on the dash would come on. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 OK, I am mot saying beat the shit out of it, what I do sometimes is take a piece of re-bar or a hammer depending on how much room I have and I firmly tap on the end of the starter where the brushes are, for me it has always worked best if someone was holding the key in the start position, I am not talking beating the shit out of it, I am talking about firmly tapping it, sometimes the brushes get out of position, I have fixed lots of what were called bad starters this way, even Hondas. 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Yes I know about tapping on it. I did some but as soon as I get home I’m going to pull it off and look inside of it. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 3 hours ago, R4wb33 said: All I get now is just a small spark when I cross them no movement or sounds at all. I pretty sure I had good connection as all the headlights, taillights, blinkers and lights on the dash would come on. The starter has it's own cable from the battery separate from all other lights and ignition and the fuse box. Good lighting or strong sounding horn only indicates that the battery is good. Everything else about the starter is suspect including the 12v start signal to the solenoid from the ignition switch which can be checked with a volt meter and someone turning the key to START. Both my 710 were hit and miss with the starter. I checked and they were under 8 volts signal to the solenoid. This could simply be a weak start signal or bad solenoid. Electricity is invisible, removing the starter and taking apart won't show you this. If removing the starter be sure to disconnect one of the battery cables first!!!!!!!!!!! Very important. 1 Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 (edited) R4wb33: everything from windshield back to include the dash/doors/bed on 521 will work on your 520, so i have been told by a reliable datsun friend in kentucky who has both a 520 and 521 but the tail lights and rear bumperette brackets are different Edited January 26, 2020 by gene knight 1 Quote Link to comment
zed1 Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 The bed of early 520s do not have the provision of side or rear reflectors. Also, the bed wheel housing was redesigned to accommodate the fuel tank evaporator plumbing. 1 Quote Link to comment
R4wb33 Posted January 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Got my starter off and cleaned it up really good. It was caked in buildup inside and out. Got it back together and benched tested it and it’s working. One question those. What is that piece that’s able to slide around infront of the gear? I found half of a small clip in the housing. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 There should be three parts on the end of the starter armature on the transmission side of the pinion gear. Transmission side Pinion stopper..................... 23369-10600 Pinion stopper clip.............. 23353-10600 Pinion stopper washer........ 23370-09600 Front of truck. There is a replacement kit called a Pinion stopper set.... 23465-E6800 if they are still available. It was used on the 240/260/280Z so you might find one on one of their parts websites, also the Roadster 521, 620, 1200, B-210, 610, 710. All used this replacement kit. 1 Quote Link to comment
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