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1968 520


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I recently purchased a what the title says is a 1968 520.  I’ve been doing a lot of reading and I think I’ve confused myself more than anything lol. I’ve found another truck for parts that the tag on the door jamb says 12/70. I’m just wondering if it’s working getting for parts or are the trucks in the weird year ranges that the doors and fenders don’t swap out?  


My truck is the tan tan one and the one I can also get is the blue one.  










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No sheet metal in front of the windshield will interchange, the doors will not likely interchange either, but that is easy enough to check, if the locking mechanisms in the door are the same they will interchange, the photos below are what I am talking about.





The boxes will interchange but you will need to use whatever taillights are on the box your going to use unless you cut the mounts off and weld them on the box you want to use, there are slight differences in the boxes, 520 have reflectors on the rear corners and the gas door is a slightly different shape.


Personally I like the 521 better as the engine bay is larger, but I have a 520 myself.

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Nice 520 ! There is a lot of info here on 520/521. Started from 0 as well 3 years ago !


I am building a 520 and have a 521 for parts. I recommend you wait and find a 520 for parts just so you have more compatible parts like Wayno said !


The frame is almost the same though...just need to move back the 2 front cab mounts about 2in. since the nose is shorter on the 520. Everything else is the same...


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Here are some more current pictures of the truck from today. It’s going to be alittle bit before I get started on it. In the process of having a shop built. It appears to be pretty complete minus a drivers side fender emblem and the windshield is cracked.  It’s missing a vin plate in the door jamb if these trucks have one.  They told me it ran when parked but I’m not sure how long ago that was either. 

























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That vin plate might be a concern when going to register...

They were riveted into the drivers door jab.... that's the one they will want to check....


It's also in the engine bay but that's not a vin tag.... you should also be able to find the number on the frame.... passenger side frame rail... on top behind the front control arms....

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Battery has to be fully charged and the battery cable ends at the posts clean in good condition (no bolts, nails or screws in them) and tight. The other ends The ground on the block and the positive on the starter must also be clean and tight. We're only talking 12 volts here. Even the slightest resistance will degrade performance.


When it stopped turning, was there a chattering noise from the solenoid??

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OK, I am mot saying beat the shit out of it, what I do sometimes is take a piece of re-bar or a hammer depending on how much room I have and I firmly tap on the end of the starter where the brushes are, for me it has always worked best if someone was holding the key in the start position, I am not talking beating the shit out of it, I am talking about firmly tapping it, sometimes the brushes get out of position, I have fixed lots of what were called bad starters this way, even Hondas.

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3 hours ago, R4wb33 said:

All I get now is just a small spark when I cross them no movement or sounds at all. I pretty sure I had good connection as all the headlights, taillights, blinkers and lights on the dash would come on. 



The starter has it's own cable from the battery separate from all other lights and ignition and the fuse box. Good lighting or strong sounding horn only indicates that the battery is good. Everything else about the starter is suspect including the 12v start signal to the solenoid from the ignition switch which can be checked with a volt meter and someone turning the key to START.  Both my 710 were hit and miss with the starter. I checked and they were under 8 volts signal to the solenoid. This could simply be a weak start signal or bad solenoid. Electricity is invisible, removing the starter and taking apart won't show you this.


If removing the starter be sure to disconnect one of the battery cables first!!!!!!!!!!! Very important.

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R4wb33: everything from windshield back to include the dash/doors/bed on 521 will work on your 520, so i have been told by a reliable datsun friend in kentucky who has both a 520 and 521 but the tail lights and rear bumperette brackets are different

Edited by gene knight
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Got my starter off and cleaned it up really good. It was caked in buildup inside and out. Got it back together and benched tested it and it’s working. One question those. What is that piece that’s able to slide around infront of the gear? I found half of a small clip in the housing. 








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There should be three parts on the end of the starter armature on the transmission side of the pinion gear.


Transmission side


Pinion stopper..................... 23369-10600

Pinion stopper clip.............. 23353-10600

Pinion stopper washer........ 23370-09600


Front of truck.



There is a replacement kit called a Pinion stopper set.... 23465-E6800 if they are still available. It was used on the 240/260/280Z so you might find one on one of their parts websites, also the Roadster 521, 620, 1200, B-210, 610, 710. All used this replacement kit.

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