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Bastard_510

Hot LZ23

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23 hours ago, docbainey said:

The piston guided rod thing is used in all CRASHCAR motors & I believe Mercedes road cars. Severely cuts down on frictional loses. Instead of having 360deg frictional losses on the crank pin, you only have minor angular losses on the piston pin.

Should probably clarify that the frictional losses are on side clearance, not the pin bearing surfaces.

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12 hours ago, docbainey said:

Those rods are for either a RB30 - 6.0010" long with a big end width of 0.8580" or a VG30 - 6.0630" long with BE width of 0.8170". Both have the same big end dia as L series, VG does have a 22mm pin though Vs 21.02mm for the RB which is the same as L series.

http://pauter.com/parts/rods/infiniti-nissan/

ya when i got on the phone with scat he said "those are rb30 rods" "oh they are listed for a z20". i told him the whole thing. the guy seemed like he wasnt happy with his job or maybe it was too early for him. Pretty much said im screwed and to call the site i got them from. fine i did. cnc motorsport is now waiting to hear from scat. i guess the dude has a large on hand stock of them. anyways i couldnt find them listed as rb30 rods and WTF AM I GOING TO DO WITH 4 OUT OF 6 RB30 RODS???

Im waiting for a call back from carrillo. this build better be worth it and it may get some of the bottle, scooter.

 

side question: how much horsepower can a 68 311 take before it starts to twist?

 

carrillo called back $345 per rod....

Edited by Bastard_510

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Research piston guided rods. Low cost solution to your dilemma. Durability? Well they last for at least 500 miles in CRASHCAR!

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Yeah, I knew Carrillos weren't going to be cheap. The last time I ordered a set, they were about a grand (set of four). That was 20 years ago.

 

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15 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yeah, I knew Carrillos weren't going to be cheap. The last time I ordered a set, they were about a grand (set of four). That was 20 years ago.

 

Ya I’m going to have to at this point...i thought my carbs would be the most expensive part 🙄

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1 hour ago, scooter said:

get rods yet?

6 weeks was quoted. around august 30th. i did get the cam back from the grinder a week ago.

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9 hours ago, Bastard_510 said:

6 weeks was quoted. around august 30th. i did get the cam back from the grinder a week ago.

what u end up getting? carrillo?

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yall remember when i said crank grinders are absolute shit now? I got my rods from carrillo. i went to test them out and measure some clearances and the shop  not only didnt touch the mains enough for the thrust bearing, but they GROUND THE PIN AND NOW I HAVE .018" SIDE CLEARANCE . So im going to have a talk with the shop. i measured the old rods that came out and the new ones and they are 1.0545" width on the nose. the only huge change has been the crank pin which i know should not have been touched but i can see straight tool marks on the thrust surface...so they guy had to have touched off on the cheeks 3 thou on each side...if the shop gets back to me and they dont give me another im tempted top pull the trigger and have a crank made as well. Yes i know welding the crank or leaving them as is would be fine to a few of you but ive put too much money into this one to have to deal with someone's fuck up. its almost double the clearance spec.

 

rods are pretty.....

Edited by Bastard_510

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I mentioned it before, never have the shop grind for thrust clearance. Take the material out of the thrust bearing instead of the crank. When setting the thrust, you belt sand the front side of the bearing to get the roughly .006" end play.

 

Did you say the thrust surface in the crank is damaged? Then, and only then, will I have them grind the thrust surface.

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58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

never have the shop grind for thrust clearance. 

 

i didn’t state to do anything  to the crank pins. Crank pins should not be touched at all. In the case of the main thrust  the bearing is thicker for the underside shaft. They bump the trust to get it back in check and again I’ve had a few go out and they all  have come back ok except this one. No it wasn’t damaging only the fillet from the chisel but that’s still there and on the mains. 

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3 hours ago, Bastard_510 said:

In the case of the main thrust  the bearing is thicker for the underside shaft. 

 

I’ve had a few go out

I still would rather sand the front of the thrust bearing than cut the crank. Bearings are easy to replace, but it's hard to add material to a crank.

 

You had problems with thrust bearings going out before?

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27 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I guess you live up to you name....

If I’m soft to one i have to be soft to the others 😉

 

 

53 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I still would rather sand the front of the thrust bearing than cut the crank. Bearings are easy to replace, but it's hard to add material to a crank.

 

You had problems with thrust bearings going out before?

 What i meant was I’ve sent out a few cranks to this shop and they came back fine every time. 

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I've always heard them called rod journals. Tomato tomaato, 6 of one half dozen of the other, 710 or Violet, Gordon Sumner or Sting.

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I was spelling phonetically. Like humor it doesn't always come across.

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Looks very nice! What did you end up with for deck height? I assume you just ended up sendin it with the side clearance?

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