BrandonS Posted May 7, 2018 Report Share Posted May 7, 2018 I've been reading on swaps and have noticed it's common for the engine crossmember to be cut and flipped to facilitate the front sump. I am working on a CA swap for my dime and an oil cooler is a recommended item when reading upping power on one. This got me thinking that it may not be a bad idea to have an increased capacity oil pan as well. Then I thought, well why couldn't I just build a rear sump pan if I'm already going through the trouble. So that was my train of thought which leads me to my question. Is there any benefit to flipping the crossmember over cutting up the stock oil pan and creating a higher capacity, rear sump pan? If anything the oil pan route doesn't seem overly difficult, provides a larger buffer against overheated oil, can provide oil control via baffles, and would also preclude the need for a revised swaybar. Or maybe since I haven't done this I'm completely off base. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 7, 2018 Report Share Posted May 7, 2018 I would live to see a rear sump pan made for the S13 KA-E if that helps any. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 7, 2018 Report Share Posted May 7, 2018 Is there any benefit to flipping the crossmember over cutting up the stock oil pan and creating a higher capacity, rear sump pan? None whatsoever. It's just quicker and easier to modify the crossmember than to modify the oil pan. It also can be tough to find someone good at welding thin metal and making it not leak. On my first KA24E swap I just used the truck oil pickup tube and truck rear sump pan and modified it to be the shape of the stock 510 pan. But I know a guy who is really good at TIG welding thin metal... Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 Don't forget on the CA the oil pickup passes through the slosh shield. Not sure if that can be rotated, but it's easy enough to fab one up. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 Also added benefit to a rear sump pan is protection from impact as the crossmember is still in front of the pan. I went custom rear sump pan for my KA swap. When I did the math on getting the crossmember cut and rewelded or buying someones already flipped crossmember and then having to get a new sway bar it pretty much evened out. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 Front sump is better. A sheet metal pan will bend out of the way when a massive road hazard are encountered, a rear sump pan may seem better but in my experience it's not. I'd rather bust a pan and possibly loose a motor then bend a frame rail. Also I've seen cars with ripped sheet metal where the pan bolts on which includes my car. It was like that when I got it though. Also rack and pinion works better with an SR swap and a front sump pan. Win win! Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 But then there's this... ^_^ Also rack and pinion works better with ... a front sump pan Quote Link to comment
BrandonS Posted May 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll give it a shot at the oil pan route first and see what I come up with. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'll give it a shot at the oil pan route first and see what I come up with. Here's some inspiration for you --- this is the pan I had made for my KA - Ray at Garage Autohero welded it up for me --- not sure how the CA bottom end compares to the KA. The other thread to check out is Dukes thread - he did a rear sump pan on his KA and is now running a steering rack as well. Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr IMG_0663 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment
BrandonS Posted May 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Thanks for the pictures/motivation. That pan looks very nice. Quote Link to comment
BrandonS Posted May 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Are you running a megasquirt? I see you have a trigger wheel that n the crank. Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Are you running a megasquirt? I see you have a trigger wheel that n the crank. Running Megajolt - got a set of Mikuni 44's bolted to the side of the KA, so Megajolt takes care of the ignition. 20180413_172943 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr 2 Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Nice! Is that a production intake manifold or custom? I see some casting marks/letters, but can't make it out........?? TJ 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 Nice! Is that a production intake manifold or custom? There were two companies back in the day that offered those, one through Nissan Motorsports, neither are easy to find now... :blush: Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 Nice! Is that a production intake manifold or custom? I see some casting marks/letters, but can't make it out........?? TJ Cast "production" intake - EWL - hard to find. I got lucky and found it second hand... but I stumbled upon the guy who makes them/ imports them on the Ratsun facebook a little while back. I think his name was Eddie La Puebla i think?? There were two companies back in the day that offered those, one through Nissan Motorsports, neither are easy to find now... :blush: Ed Pink made the ones for Nissan Motorsports NA - that one is a welded manifold. I've got one of those stashed away as well, but I liked the look and quality of the cast one better. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 Ed Pink made the ones for Nissan Motorsports NA - that one is a welded manifold. I've got one of those stashed away as well, but I liked the look and quality of the cast one better. Yeah, those are a nice piece, but kind of ugly... ^_^ You can definitely tell it was made to function well, not be pretty, because racecar. FWIW, you can buy head flanges and well as dual carb flanges premade. I bought some waterjet cut from mild steel and some tube to build my own. Still need to finish it.... Some day... 1 Quote Link to comment
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