Cosmonaut Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 I wish to start a build thread but I am confused on the whole how to post pics now....without to much fuss, can someone inform me on the simplist way (post photocrap). Thanx PS: yes I have started my build but I have pics documenting the work. For those that don't know, GFI is Nissans 1978 version of multiport fuel injection for the Sunny (210) models. Plus I am upgrading in a myriad of ways. 3 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Where in the hell did you find A series efi? Not to mention vintage A series EFI.... PS. I thought it was called EGI ? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Are you on computer or smart phone? I use my phone almost exclusively. I now use postimage.io. upload is quick. When you select a pic to share it has a "hotlink for forums" button that you paste into the reply box and it works great. They don't have an app so i just have internet tab that is always open to there. Works fine Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Ya,.....Ooops upside the head GFI, WOW. You are right mhub91, EGI is correct. Cool Lockleaf, and thank you. I will give postimage.io a go. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Would love to see a thread on a built of an EGI system on an A series engine. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Apparently the ECI Multi intake manifold from a Mitsubishi engine found in the 1992 Hyundai Excel is a bolt on affair to ab A series head. Requires minor modifications. Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 This is that build, I have a complete 1978 Nissan EGI A14 fuel injection setup that will be going into this build. I looked at the Hyundai system, not as plug n play as they led to believe. Ran across this EGI setup from Malaysia. A Ratsuner (from Malaysia) was keeping a look out for me n notified me when it showed up. I will post his name tomorrow. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Hahaha, I had to wait till this morning to post the Ratsuner that helped me find the EGI setup due to the fact that I could not remember his name.........well...it is...."a15egi"...wow, my brain. I highly recommend him for a fair price and tenacity. 1 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Careful buying things from Malaysia... I have been ripped off SO many times. Quote Link to comment
Sierra Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 I think I asked you this before Cosmonaut, but I will ask it again. What are you doing in regards to the "computer" are you using the original? Are you going megasquirt or any other newer system? Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Megasquirt. But I do have the original "computer". I like the idea of less sensors....PLUS....programability.... Also found the "B" has an A15 residing in the engine bay. It has a strange water suction pipe though. With it the heat riser tube cannot be connected. I will try and identify what it came out of. Quote Link to comment
afracer Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 I'll be doing the same here soon enough. The accelerator cable is from a early 80s 200sx. I'm blocking off the water circulation on the bottom of the intake and will be using a hose tap for temp sender. Not all of my heads have water circulation and headers or my turbo manifold don't fit well otherwise. Replacement injectors are from a 280zx but I'll be using some bigger ones from a Toyota. Also upgraded to a ca20e throttle body. The tps is going to be a s13 240sx that I've adapted to fit since the stock one is just an on off switch. I've modded a E15t/e16 distributor (CAS) for ignition. Also going to go with megasquirt and use their Nissan CAS optical disk and go coil on (or near) plug and full sequential injection. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 I would so much rather prefer Ford EDIS 4 crank trigger. Stupid easy, extremely reliable, surprisingly cheap. Quote Link to comment
Tom1200 Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Good pick, the injected A15 puts out 92hp stock, just cleaning up the stock ports in an A series is worth 8-10hp (the valve seats protrude into the head cuasing a 2mm choke point) add a mild cam, exhaust upgrade and I'd expect to see around a 15hp gain. It wouldn't cost more than a $200-$300. Tom Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 That is the kind of info I am looking for. Please keep it coming. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Not sure what cams, exhaust, and port work you're getting for $200-300...... that's about the price of good exhaust work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 This is the "B"! Yes all 3 "B"s in the first pick are mine. The blue HB is a 78, it will live on. The Orange one suffers from rust issues and worse yet title issues. But the orange "B" is a 77 orig 5 spd...all of the drive train components will survive in the blue one. Along with its windshield. Thanks again to "lockleaf", breathing oic's back into a otherwise useless thread. In a few minutes I will be posting some of the parts and accesories that will be finding there way into "Honey" (My daughter named her) Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 These B the Bounty...Besides the JDM chrome bumper we already mounted on the front. The rear JDM chrome bumper has been bought and is on the way. Also we have already installed 4 American Racing, Vectre wheels with a set of New Michelin Defenders. EGI :rofl: From what I can see, there are no cracks or broken pieces EGI, other stuff ECU...Electronic Control Unit A bunch of needed wires to resurect the EGI Factory air cleaner and sensor Presents for the Cylinder Head (besides the EGI) yep, that be stainless steel..It will remain until I pickup an EGI exhaust manifold. It needs a special hat. Presents for the Dash all of the parts in the picture are "B210" original factory parts. The Oil and Amp meter where optional on the 1974 model. The rear defrost underdash mount is necessary for the cubby to install in the rear defrost/seatbelt and egr light hole. On top and to the right of the Stereo is a JDM front and rear fog lamp switch along with the hazard button...it installs where the current hazard button is located. I changed the dials on the clock from the black and orange to white (wife and I's preference) Presents for the Crank, and oh ya...I want to see all the Datsun Goodness Day or Night :thumbup: This is to add to the Present of a Chrome JDM bumper that we installed on Honey already. Oh ya, I want those shifts of that dog leg to be crisp! Above is a metal shifter kit Sorry for all the Oic's, trying to make up for all the Oic's I have not been able to post lately. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Damn.. nice parts stash! Get them on the car! Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Want those goodies so bad.... Nice job Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Front bumper Interior A15 :thumbup: Engine before Engine after Stay tuned :rofl: 1 Quote Link to comment
Tom1200 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 @mhub91 the porting is free; as stated the valve seat when pressed in the head protrudes into the port choking it off by 2mm, you,can use a dremel or rat tail file and simply get the valve seat flush with the port wall. That and matching the intake gasket to the port and the head will net you 5-8% increase. A reground cam and lifters will set you back $125-$140. If you shop your local Craigslist you can find a Yoshimura or Borla muffler for $100 after that you just need some 2" tubing, any muffler shop can weld it up. I can't remember the exact price but when I did the head on my A15 I used the reduced neck valves from SI I think it was around $125 to $150 for the set of 8. I don't remember the exact difference but the stems are 1-2mm smaller diameter and swirl polished. They are a cheap upgrade that doesn't take anything away from the reliability. Besides the SI valves you can also use the .80 thick (versus 1.2) head gasket will up the compression So there are some of small things you can do to pick up a couple of horsepower here and there. Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 I will be continuing this thread but with "angliagt"s 1978 B210 Hatchback. Happily the wife n I are heading down Wednesday to bring "Old blue" home. Very excited to get working with and see Dougs dream through to fruition. Quote Link to comment
JDOM310 Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Any updates?? Quote Link to comment
Cosmonaut Posted September 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 Still trying to get "Old Blue" home LOL Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.