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Everything posted by afracer

  1. Ebay has stainless headers for the 280Z for $~150. I just put one on my 77 810 wagon. Physically fits in just fine, but figured y'all would want to know the challenges. The quality is fine. It seals up fine. The header gasket included is trash. The header is a 6-2-1 style; 1 5/8" tubes to 2" doubles to 2" single collector. The 2 to 1 section needs to be pushed on as far up as possible to have good ground clearance and welded together (no room for their clamps). The flange had to be filed down in spots around the head and intake area but not terribly bad. The worst part honestly was that the intake manifold and header weren't even on the lower studs where the yoke washers go. The easy solution was to cut three old yoke washers in half and weld them to the header flange there to even up the thickness. Header also had two ports on it, one for EGR I assume, and one for some other large device too big to be O2 sensor. I plugged one and had to tap and plug the other with an M24 tap. That was it. Highly recommend wrapping it to cut down heat since heat shields are gone.
  2. Supposed to be the same as sedan
  3. afracer

    cheap lowering

    Yep, datsunfreak hit the nail on the head, you have to choose wheel size on these cars based on the tires you need/want and their availability. 14" tires give poor choices and getting worse as less and less manufacturers make them each year. 15's has the best selection for multiple types of tires in a small diameter.
  4. Happy to report she's been working like a champ. Voltage is 14.2 rock solid.
  5. The CS130 dodge alternator was supposed to put out around 100 amps. They included a performance sheer that said it put out 117 amps peak
  6. 11/76 production and when I said I just converted it to an internal regulator I figured that would've told you the car was originally externally regulated. The Dodge alternator is a CS-130 and it has P F L and S terminals on it where only the L and S get hooked up in addition to power and ground. Regardless, it looks like the kid at O'Reilly's screwed the pooch on the alternator test because I tried everything including fooling the alternator and bypassing vehicle wiring in case there was a short with a 158 bulb to simulate the CHG light wired direct from L to the battery and a thick S wire going direct to battery. It produced nothing but 12.5 volts doing this. Additionally when hooking up the L wire voltage with the ignition on would go from 12.5 to 1.3 volts on that terminal so I think it was internally shorted or something. Bottom line, it looks like it was a brand new BAD alternator. Went and picked up a reman Autozone 280zx alternator and she's now purring like a kitten with 14.09 volts with or without the headlights on. Now I'm thinking either the old external voltage regulator was bad or this bulb check relay that seemed to be shorted internally was bad that caused the original alternator issue. Either way I'm so far up and running after scratching my head and troubleshooting all damn weekend. My lesson relearned is NEVER TRUST THE PARTS STORE KIDS TO PROPERLY TEST AN ALTERNATOR.
  7. Consider it of the earliest build possible for an 810 (#33). The charge light does come on with the ignition, then extinguishes right after start. I'll go back out and verify the wiring here in a bit, but it was doing the same thing with the old original alternator that just tested good as well.
  8. My 77 810 will randomly not charge. It's very low mile and 99% stock. It was working fine for a while then stopped charging. Figured bad alternator or external regulator. Put on a new 96 amp Dodge Monaco IR alternator and converted the car to the IR internal regulator. Seemed to work fine for one night then next day voltage dropped from 14 to 11-12 and never recovered, then would start charging again randomly then not. Went thru everything; took both old and new alternators to get tested, both tested good, looked for bad fusible links and continuity checks and cleaned all contacts on everything and it all checks good. Putting a load on the car (lights) when the alternator is randomly putting out good volts and the volts drop and never recover, even after turning the lights off. Sometimes while it's running and voltage sucks (12-13.5), hooking up the battery charger will result in the alternator starting to charge again on its own and it'll jump up to 14.3 and run great then headlights on or disconnect battery charger and the alternator will stop putting out and voltage drops to 11-12. I'm wondering if it could be the timer unit, ignition relay, or something randomly big time shorting out. I'm at a loss now and can't figure out anything else, it's so random and barely repeatable. The most repeatable thing is if it's charging fine, turning a load on or letting revs drop to idle while driving and it'll stop charging. HELP PLEASE!
  9. I think my little brother tried this repair but I don't remember if it was successful or not.
  10. afracer

    ca18de in b210

    What year B210? The CA18DE very closely shares chassis/engine mounting with the SR20, KA, Z, and L series all being very similar. So research all of the above swaps into your B210 to figure what should be done or used to make it close to bolt in. B210s and B310s usually shared crossmembers with different year 510s, so that may be the easiest option depending on if you have a B210 or B310.
  11. I don't like not having a mechanical stop (cotter pin) on big time safety/steering related parts. I've lately noticed parts manufacturers going this route on a lot of tie rod ends and ball joints lately. Cheap aces.
  12. Beware ordering the Mevotech MK9073 lifetime warranty ball jointsfor your B310 from Rockauto. The pictures and description of the part do not match what will come in the mail. Thy say and show that they're greasable with an included zerks fitting and come with a oem style castle nut and cotter pin. However, there's no provision for a zerks and they're not greasable, and come with a nylon stop nut instead of the castle nut, which I don'treally care for TBH. Yes they'll probably perform just fine but they don't match up and are cheaper and less safe IMO than they advertise them.
  13. The best part of swapping to 810 or 280zx front struts and brakes besides much better braking is the track afterwards matches front/rear and you can then run 0 offset wheels up front without rubbing.
  14. I would NOT rev or even run the engine long until your injectors are figured out and it's firing properly on all cylinders. Mismatched cylinder temperatures due to no fuel on some but fuel in others can warp the head and/or blow the head gasket.
  15. I have installed two OEM dealer AC kits into B310s. They work good except its essentially vacuum operated, so if you have to give the car a lot of gas to keep up with traffic, it's constantly turning off the AC. Most modern systems are going to use electronic control of everything instead, so something to think about. Additionally be sure to run a very large radiator and add a condensor fan to the car.
  16. Open the valve cover and run it with it off to make sure there's nothing messed up in there. But it does sound like an exhaust leak.
  17. afracer

    Brass drive gears

    They'll last a decent amount of time but not forever. Price is far too steep especially not even knowing what they're for. $20-50 would be more accurate.
  18. I suppose you've driven an A series powered car with 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, and 2.5" exhausts and personally experienced a "bog like crazy" below 3000 rpm at anything larger than 1.5" piping? Its wierd, because I have actually driven with 1.5", 2", 2.25", and 2.5" exhausts on A series powered cars and absolutely none of them had any bog whatsoever no matter the exhaust size. The fastest and low rpm torquiest A series I ever drove had a 2.25" exhaust. I've never experienced low end power or torque loss going up in pipe size on a Datsun.
  19. If you spend money on a good muffler and resonator, you'll be far happier no matter the size. I'm using a Borla turbo muffler and a magnaflow resonator on my 2.5" exhaust. Like I said, not loud or droney. I put a dynomax race muffler on my dad's 1200 against my advice with 2.25" exhaust and it'd make your ears bleed. It now has a Borla muffler instead.
  20. Always keep heat shields and phenolic blocks if you're able to! Malfunctioning emissions equipment is no better, and probably worse for the environment, and good luck finding new replacement pieces. Better to ditch it all, and retune!! 🏎💭
  21. That's the cheapest short shifter you'll find. Others are from Japan and almost twice the price!
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