afracer

I've got a H89 head for sale btw. The 79 A15 is supposed to have less dished pistons for a little bit higher comprsssion than later pistons. The dellorto carbs will be awesome, be sure to get a wideband o2 sensor and tune them in right.

After going many years as a cheap skate myself, I'm happy I lived thru some of the crappy mods I did to save money. Having driven on stock suspension, lowering springs, weld on perches, cheaper coilovers, then finally good coilovers I can say that there's no comparison to good coilovers. Rather see someone do it right once than go thru the hassle to eventually realize they should've just waited and gone with what they really wanted.

Here's the ideal type of Datsun McPherson strut turned into coilover, but you'd be paying a lot. The gecko ones above are good too though and almost the same thing, just don't have the extra damper adjustment on bottom, which is fine for 99% of us.

What's the point of a coilover at all if you're never going to tune, change, or adjust it? I don't personally adjust mine much once I find where I like them, but I could never get them there without some form of actual adjustment beyond spring preload only. The cheapest/easiest methods you preach aren't the best advice sometimes, and I'd rather let people know or understand better what they're actually looking at doing. Yeah you'll pay a little more money, but it won't be as ghetto and you'll be able to adjust height and spring preload separately, while maintaining/maximizing shock stroke, which is what most people would, or should want and expect out of coilovers.

A non turbo KA is kind of a pig, there's so many better options out there; SR20DE and VE turbo or not, Toyota BEAMS, even a S2000 Honda engine would all be better choices.

Yes they look legit, but unsure about how they'd work on the rear. Typically this type of coilover on the rear will require strengthening and reinforcements to the shock mounts both on top and bottom. The fronts are easy, cut strut tube, weld on new threaded lower section, and now you have a truly height adjustable front coilover instead of crappy/joke adjustable spring perch "coilovers".

Muffler sounds better, straight pipe is too loud and raspy, so are cherry bombs. Go on ebay and get a 14" case or smaller oval offset inlet offset outlet stainless steel muffler for $30-80. I prefer Borla personally.

Find a driveshaft shop and either get a shaft made with replaceable joints, or have yours modded to accept Dataun truck u joints. A custom new steel shaft should be sub $300 or you're paying too much.

If anybody is parting out a S110, I desperately need a front crossmember from a 80-83 200sx. Let me know!

Its a bit of work, but worth it for the extra gear. You will 100% need a 77-78 B210 GX clutch disk.

I've seen nothing but overestimation on quarter mile times on guy's builds. Easiest way to run 11s is to build it to run 10s and accept that it'll probably never run 10s without thousands more in chassis, suspension, and tires and lots of tuning. My Datsun should be able to run 10s based on power to weight ratio but will never get there as it is. I'd be happy with low 12s honestly but there's no 1/4 mile tracks near me either.

I have this flywheel, definitely recommend!

These are almost identical to stock Late model GB122 Sunny truck front brakes, you could use the hoses from them on these too.

Most coilover shocks like these adjust damping thru a hex adjuster in the strut rod thru the top hats. Some have a knob on the side of the shock body, and some have a knob on the bottom of the shock body. Height and preload are separately adjustable, just pop off wheel and either the two strut bolts on the bottom or unbolt the 3 top hat bolts to raise or lower.