afracer

Honestly I think body panel wise they may all be unique on the doors between sedan, hatchback, wagon, 2 door and 4 door.

Yeah your governor sucks (technically mine as well). Washington used to be halfway decent before it was completely taken over by Californians. I don't think I'll ever move back there permanently anymore. Good luck getting a new job and a new project car!

Swapping the pinion flange without re-checking and setting backlash was your fatal error along with possibly messing up preload on the crush spacer. If you don't want to ruin everything you'll need to pull it out. While you're in there should at least install new pinion seal, ideally swap new pinion bearings in.

I've had stock, Weber 32/36, GX SU twin carbs, and twin 40mm Dellortos all on the same engine. The Dellortos were obviously the best performing but worst gas mileage and upkeep, and difficult to fit. The SUs were the best compromise, they wayy outperform the 32/36, pretty hands off, and still got good gas mileage. Its a great choice, but hard to find a complete setup in good shape. You'll also need a header, or gx, or later model 210 divorced exhaust manifold to run the SU carbs.

Sorry to bring up an old thread, go to Napa Auto Parts (Cabot carries it) for true GL4 trans fluid made by Sta-lube, or jump on Amazon or Summit racing and order a few bottles of the good stuff, Redline MT90.

Can't hurt, they're not expensive

I'll 2nd the recommendation to weld your diff and lift it up as high as possible with bigger/taller tires and a skid plate under the engine. I took my 210 wagon on some off road trails and can verify a unlocked diff, crappy tires, and no ground clearance will shut you down REAL quick.

Did you try 79-81 200sx rear axle parts for your H165? Or is it an H165B?

Cleaned up and POR15'd the entire inside of an old fender, installed new front speakers (loud as hell again now), fixed malfunctioning fuel gauge, installed new horn after rolling without one for 19 years.

If your engine budget is only $500, you probably shouldn't even be looking into any engine swaps besides another A series. A warmed up A15 is plenty fun and easy to work on/cheap.

Precisely why it should be renamed Datsun Sunny USA Club in my opinion. Locally we have a Z owners club, and that's it. Its a nice, active group and they're always telling me with my Datsuns that aren't Z's, to join, and I keep telling them just make it the Arkansas Datsun Club instead then, there's too few Datsuns in general here, need to band together with a little bigger vision with the rarity of these cars. Sunny's would capture B110/B210/B310 which are essentially all the same IMO.

...unless you have future plans for the car for more power or a bigger engine. When you're already going to spend a good chunk of change on a new exhaust, spending a tiny bit more but not having to replace it again any time soon would be wise. I built my entire stainless t304 2.5" exhaust by myself for about $300, and like I said it is not loud and I didn't lose any power, torque, or driveability. If I did lose any low end, its completely unnoticeable.

2" is just fine, if it's crush bent tubing, which 99% of muffler shops do, it'll neck down around the bends to probably 1.75 or smaller, essentially turning your 2" system into whatever the smallest restriction is around a bend. The factory had mandrel bent tubing so it would've been 1.5" all the way. My 2.5" mandrel exhaust with Borla muffler and resonator isn't loud at all behind the A15.