afracer

Most excellent information!!

What year B210? The CA18DE very closely shares chassis/engine mounting with the SR20, KA, Z, and L series all being very similar. So research all of the above swaps into your B210 to figure what should be done or used to make it close to bolt in. B210s and B310s usually shared crossmembers with different year 510s, so that may be the easiest option depending on if you have a B210 or B310.

Absolutely...not! Never!

I don't like not having a mechanical stop (cotter pin) on big time safety/steering related parts. I've lately noticed parts manufacturers going this route on a lot of tie rod ends and ball joints lately. Cheap aces.

Beware ordering the Mevotech MK9073 lifetime warranty ball jointsfor your B310 from Rockauto. The pictures and description of the part do not match what will come in the mail. Thy say and show that they're greasable with an included zerks fitting and come with a oem style castle nut and cotter pin. However, there's no provision for a zerks and they're not greasable, and come with a nylon stop nut instead of the castle nut, which I don'treally care for TBH. Yes they'll probably perform just fine but they don't match up and are cheaper and less safe IMO than they advertise them.

The best part of swapping to 810 or 280zx front struts and brakes besides much better braking is the track afterwards matches front/rear and you can then run 0 offset wheels up front without rubbing.

I would NOT rev or even run the engine long until your injectors are figured out and it's firing properly on all cylinders. Mismatched cylinder temperatures due to no fuel on some but fuel in others can warp the head and/or blow the head gasket.

I have installed two OEM dealer AC kits into B310s. They work good except its essentially vacuum operated, so if you have to give the car a lot of gas to keep up with traffic, it's constantly turning off the AC. Most modern systems are going to use electronic control of everything instead, so something to think about. Additionally be sure to run a very large radiator and add a condensor fan to the car.

You still have the AC parts?

Gecko racing, they're pretty decent too!

Open the valve cover and run it with it off to make sure there's nothing messed up in there. But it does sound like an exhaust leak.

They'll last a decent amount of time but not forever. Price is far too steep especially not even knowing what they're for. $20-50 would be more accurate.

I suppose you've driven an A series powered car with 1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, and 2.5" exhausts and personally experienced a "bog like crazy" below 3000 rpm at anything larger than 1.5" piping? Its wierd, because I have actually driven with 1.5", 2", 2.25", and 2.5" exhausts on A series powered cars and absolutely none of them had any bog whatsoever no matter the exhaust size. The fastest and low rpm torquiest A series I ever drove had a 2.25" exhaust. I've never experienced low end power or torque loss going up in pipe size on a Datsun.

If you spend money on a good muffler and resonator, you'll be far happier no matter the size. I'm using a Borla turbo muffler and a magnaflow resonator on my 2.5" exhaust. Like I said, not loud or droney. I put a dynomax race muffler on my dad's 1200 against my advice with 2.25" exhaust and it'd make your ears bleed. It now has a Borla muffler instead.

Always keep heat shields and phenolic blocks if you're able to! Malfunctioning emissions equipment is no better, and probably worse for the environment, and good luck finding new replacement pieces. Better to ditch it all, and retune!! 🏎💭