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B210 EGI Build "In the beginning"


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I wish to start a build thread but I am confused on the whole how to post pics now....without to much fuss, can someone inform me on the simplist way (post photocrap).




PS: yes I have started my build but I have pics documenting the work.


For those that don't know, GFI is Nissans 1978 version of multiport fuel injection for the Sunny (210) models. Plus I am upgrading in a myriad of ways.

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Are you on computer or smart phone?


I use my phone almost exclusively. I now use postimage.io. upload is quick. When you select a pic to share it has a "hotlink for forums" button that you paste into the reply box and it works great.


They don't have an app so i just have internet tab that is always open to there. Works fine

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This is that build, I have a complete 1978 Nissan EGI A14 fuel injection setup that will be going into this build.


I looked at the Hyundai system, not as plug n play as they led to believe. Ran across this EGI setup from Malaysia. A Ratsuner (from Malaysia) was keeping a look out for me n notified me when it showed up. I will post his name tomorrow.

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Hahaha, I had to wait till this morning to post the Ratsuner that helped me find the EGI setup due to the fact that I could not remember his name.........well...it is...."a15egi"...wow, my brain.


I highly recommend him for a fair price and tenacity.

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But I do have the original "computer". I like the idea of less sensors....PLUS....programability....


Also found the "B" has an A15 residing in the engine bay. It has a strange water suction pipe though. With it the heat riser tube cannot be connected. I will try and identify what it came out of.

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I'll be doing the same here soon enough. The accelerator cable is from a early 80s 200sx. I'm blocking off the water circulation on the bottom of the intake and will be using a hose tap for temp sender. Not all of my heads have water circulation and headers or my turbo manifold don't fit well otherwise. Replacement injectors are from a 280zx but I'll be using some bigger ones from a Toyota. Also upgraded to a ca20e throttle body. The tps is going to be a s13 240sx that I've adapted to fit since the stock one is just an on off switch. I've modded a E15t/e16 distributor (CAS) for ignition. Also going to go with megasquirt and use their Nissan CAS optical disk and go coil on (or near) plug and full sequential injection.

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Good pick, the injected A15 puts out 92hp stock, just cleaning up the stock ports in an A series is worth 8-10hp (the valve seats protrude into the head cuasing a 2mm choke point) add a mild cam, exhaust upgrade and I'd expect to see around a 15hp gain. It wouldn't cost more than a $200-$300.



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This is the "B"!


















Yes all 3 "B"s in the first pick are mine. The blue HB is a 78, it will live on. The Orange one suffers from rust issues and worse yet title issues. But the orange "B" is a 77 orig 5 spd...all of the drive train components will survive in the blue one. Along with its windshield.


Thanks again to "lockleaf", breathing oic's back into a otherwise useless thread.


In a few minutes I will be posting some of the parts and accesories that will be finding there way into "Honey" (My daughter named her)

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These B the Bounty...Besides the JDM chrome bumper we already mounted on the front. The rear JDM chrome bumper has been bought and is on the way. Also we have already installed 4 American Racing, Vectre wheels with a set of New Michelin Defenders.


EGI  :rofl:


From what I can see, there are no cracks or broken pieces















EGI, other stuff




ECU...Electronic Control Unit







A bunch of needed wires to resurect the EGI 




Factory air cleaner and sensor









Presents for the Cylinder Head (besides the EGI)


yep, that be stainless steel..It will remain until I pickup an EGI exhaust manifold.





It needs a special hat.






Presents for the Dash


all of the parts in the picture are "B210" original factory parts. The Oil and Amp meter where optional on the 1974 model. The rear defrost underdash mount is necessary for the cubby to install in the rear defrost/seatbelt and egr light hole. On top and to the right of the Stereo is a JDM front and rear fog lamp switch along with the hazard button...it installs where the current hazard button is located. I changed the dials on the clock from the black and orange to white (wife and I's preference)










Presents for the Crank, and oh ya...I want to see all the Datsun Goodness Day or Night  :thumbup:






This is to add to the Present of a Chrome JDM bumper that we installed on Honey already.







Oh ya, I want those shifts of that dog leg to be crisp!




Above is a metal shifter kit 


Sorry for all the Oic's, trying to make up for all the Oic's I have not been able to post lately.

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@mhub91 the porting is free; as stated the valve seat when pressed in the head protrudes into the port choking it off by 2mm, you,can use a dremel or rat tail file and simply get the valve seat flush with the port wall. That and matching the intake gasket to the port and the head will net you 5-8% increase. A reground cam and lifters will set you back $125-$140. If you shop your local Craigslist you can find a Yoshimura or Borla muffler for $100 after that you just need some 2" tubing, any muffler shop can weld it up.


I can't remember the exact price but when I did the head on my A15 I used the reduced neck valves from SI I think it was around $125 to $150 for the set of 8. I don't remember the exact difference but the stems are 1-2mm smaller diameter and swirl polished. They are a cheap upgrade that doesn't take anything away from the reliability.


Besides the SI valves you can also use the .80 thick (versus 1.2) head gasket will up the compression


So there are some of small things you can do to pick up a couple of horsepower here and there.

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